1981 El Camino

[Maverick]

Replaced the front brake pads on the Explorer today so I can get back at the EC.

Now have the new fuel tank, sender/pickup, and straps. Time to figure out tank venting. I'm considering two options: plug the tank vent line nipple and drill a vent hole in the cap or figure out how to use the carbon canister. I've been reading how others have handled the issue. There is a LOT of confused ideas out there. One post included a link to vacuum diagrams on autozone.com repair manuals. This one is for an '81 EC with 305 automatic. It lets me know what all the nipples on the canister are for.

Originally, the canister purge line gets restricted vacuum from the PCV line. An alternative someone used is to run the purge line to the air cleaner to get a gentle vacuum for purge. Like that idea but I haven't settled on an answer yet.

The Lincoln tank is not vented and the gas cap got a small vent hole. There is some minor gas smell but nothing too bad.

[Basement Paul]

Save yourself all the aggravation, get a vented cap and call it a day. Getting rid of that emissions nonsense will simplify the whole thing IMO. The best part of having the older car is not having to worry about that stuff anymore.

-BP

[MostMint]

For my Trans Am I put an old school inline fuel filter on the vent hose. The paper filter would allow air in or out as needed but slow down the gas vapors. Probably not emissions legal but it worked and I never smelled gas.

[TireSmoker]

I like Andy's fuel-filter solution. I also favor getting rid of the charcoal can stuff.

-Dave

[Maverick]

Tanks, Inc has a little info on venting. http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm?ptype ... 1&mode=cat

I'll mount this http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ ... /prd98.htm near the top of the filler tube. That should be easy, cheap, get rid of the canister, avoid dips in the vent line, and provide roll over protection.

Thanks for comments. Kicking it around helps to get to a decision.

[TireSmoker]

That rollover valve came with my Tanks Inc. tank in the Chevelle. Seems like a good solution.

-Dave

[Maverick]

Got the fuel tank out and old vent line removed from the right side of the EC. The factory obviously installed that line before the body went on the frame. Need to also get the fuel supply line out of the left side. The new supply line will go along the right side where the vent line came out, reusing the holes and screws for the clips.

In the process, I found two more brake lines that will have to be replaced. I knew the line to the right front wheel had to be replaced and rerouted to get it away from the headers. The line to the left rear is flattened and appears to be completely closed off. The line to the rear axle has a crimp in it that would limit flow. Hope that's the end of new problem discovery.

[Maverick]

Got the right front brake line redone to avoid the headers. In the process, I noticed the old flexible hoses to front wheels and rear axle should all be replaced. Project creep continues. Ordered all three from RockAuto for $26 shipped. RockAuto was cheaper and much faster than Amazon Prime.

I've been really confused about the "TV cable" that came on the car.

Not only is that a TV cable but the bracket that came on the car looks like the aftermarket brackets for transmissions that use a TV cable.

Now, I know the transmission is a TH 350 by pan shape, bolt count, and the TH 350 replacement pan fit.

There are lots of posts online about adjusting the TV cable and other posts about adjusting the kickdown cable on a TH350. So what's the story?? Some TH 350s have kickdown and some have TV cable?? Don't think so. Think all TH350s use a kickdown cable and some of the posters are using the terms incorrectly. I believe I have a TV cable operating the kickdown.

Good news is that's one less job to do. I"m no longer planning to test transmission pressures to ensure the TV cable is adjusted correctly. Kickdown cable is set.

[TireSmoker]

At first glance, it looks a lot like a TV cable, because of the way it is connected to the carb. But that's a TH350 *kickdown* cable. The visual difference is in the part on the rear of the bracket.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/atp-y228 -- this is a TV cable. See the half-moon shaped adjustment button? That's the difference. Yours doesn't have that.

TH350's dont have a TV cable -- a TH350 will function fine without the cable hooked up (except, of course, for kicking down a gear when floored). I drove mine around for years without it hooked up. But a 200/700 will not upshift correctly without a properly adjusted TV cable. TV cable directly controls line pressure.

-Dave

[Maverick]

That's what caused most of my confusion. It does have that half-moon adjuster (which I love). It's on the back side of the cable in that picture so it doesn't show. Here's a shot that shows it (and, incidentally, the addition I made to the bracket to stabalize it since the Edelbrock intake only mounts it with one bolt).

The "Applications" of that Summit cable includes transmissions that use a kickdown cable and a TV cable. Guess it works as either. So much GM stuff to learn; so little time ...

[TireSmoker]

GM is well-known for parts interchangability. It's a blessing.

-Dave

[Maverick]

Got the new fuel tank in and hooked up. Fuel system is now new from sock to carb. Installed the Tanks, Inc vent with roll over protection behind the fuel door.

Some of the rubber fuel hoses were in very bad shape. We're luck they didn't collapse or suck air on the way down from NY.

Removed a bunch of bypassed, but not removed fuel line, vent line, and brake line. There's still one 3 foot piece I can't get out. Hate to leave it there.

I'm thinking I might not replace the kinked and crushed brake lines on the rear axle till the rear axle is replaced. That'll give me another motive to get the replacement axle.

[Maverick]

Replaced the crushed left rear brake line.

I don't know if the crush was deliberate or unintentional. It looks like that 3/16" line is completely pinched off but I can blow a little air thru it. I suppose that brake was working if the pedal was held down long enough.

There sure is a lot of boogered up stuff on this car. Things are way to tight or barely tight. Some of the tube nuts had the threads damaged by too much muscle on the wrench. Had to use Mini Torch heat and vise grips on two to get them loose. Hated to do it but I tightened one back up with the vise grips.

Installed the three new flexible brake hoses, sucked the dirty fluid and cleaned out the guck from the bottom of the master cyl reservoir. Gravity bled the rear brakes. Tried to bleed the right front but the bleeder screw was in so tight I had to use the vise grips there too. Got it loose (thought it would break) but nothing would come out. Bleeder screw is plugged solid and messed up from the vise grips. I'll look for replacement bleeder screws but, if none are to be found, I'll put new calipers on the to-do list. That list keeps growing. Feel like the goal line is moving away faster than I'm running.

[Basement Paul]

I feel your pain. That Mustang kicked my ass. I'll be much more selective in my next project car. Probably be awhile too. It sometimes seemed the more I fixed, the more I found that was wrong. It was a pretty deep rabbit hole.

-BP

[Maverick]

Things are looking up this AM. O'Rielly's had front and rear bleeder screws in stock. Also picked up a "turkey baster" to empty the master cyl and clean the bottom again. Installed the new bleeders in the front, gravity bled the fronts with some pedal pushes added and got a hard pedal. Still need to check for leaks under pressure,

The mini starter will come out past the headers with enough twisting, turning and patience. Took it out and removed some shims to get the recommended 1/16" gap between the drive gear and ring gear. It has to come loose again to get access to the lugs to connect the wires. I'm waiting for some heat insulating sheathing for the starter wires before the final install of the starter.

After the starter is finally installed, I'll use the starter to prime the oil, gas, PS, and transmission. Plugs will stay out till that's done. Since the engine was previously run on the dyno and it has a roller cam, I think it'll be OK to turn the engine, plugs out, with the starter. I really don't want to remove the distributor and disturb the tune that got 444 HP and still edging up at 5800 RPM.

I now know why there's no torque converter cover. Have a new one but it can't be installed with the dual exhaust in place. Hope it will go in by disconnecting only the left exhaust pipe from the header. Its already loose to allow the shifter to function. (Think I already covered that booger where only P R and N can be engaged if the left pipe is tight to the header. ) Maybe I'll try to test fit the TC cover this afternoon.