TireSmoke.org

For A/C if I have to open a line that is the perfect time to feed in whatever lubricant/dye you want.

The last time I changed the oil (135k miles) I sent a sample to Blackstone Labs for analysis. Got a good report back:

That's neat.. pretty good report too. Did you just collect a sample when draining the last oil? I'm about the change the oil in my Mustang after about 9k miles (10qts). I've never sent oil out like that before, so I'm interested in how the process works.. and cost.

-Dave

Here's a link to the oil sampling procedure: https://www.blackstone-labs.com/informa ... -sampling/

Upon request, they will ship you the oil sampling kit. The kit includes pre-paid shipping. After you ship the sample back, It takes about a month to get the results.

The test costs $35 for the standard analysis.

I especially like the personally written synopsis of the results and highlighting the important items.

Time to attempt a repair of the RH radiator support bracket. This happened when the truck slipped off a poorly placed floor jack several moons ago. After studying the situation, I decided that getting a porta power kit might be the best option for urging the bent bracket back into position. So today my porta power kit arrived. Seventy eight bucks for a 4 ton unit from Amazon warehouse. Full price is $99. After a short initial test, it looks like it works. Now I decided to head over to YouTube University to see what I can learn about using a porta power and it's various attachments. This guy does a great job in showing the use of this thing plus he adds some tips and tricks to using the attachments.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vE7VK7mFuSg So tomorrow, my faithful buddy Maverick is coming over and together we will try to make some headway here. Stay tuned...

Have fun! The key is spreading out the load on the end you are pushing against so you only end up moving what you want to move

The first problem I see is finding something to push against. I can't see anything above this bracket to use.

If that tube will unbolt (looks like it does) you can straighten that off the vehicle.

The main radiator support - from the outside of the car I would insert a pry bar into the hole then push up to bend the bracket down.

If you need the porta power you may be able to put a chain around the frame rails and push down against that, though there may be a lot of disassembly to get to that point. If the core support on either side of the radiator is metal you may be able to fabricate a metal bracket or something to attach to each side and push against that.

This seemed a difficult problem to start with, but after using a 5+ foot, 1 1/4" dia. steel digging bar to move the bracket somewhere near where it should be, I was forced to unbolt the radiator from it's mounting points. From there I was able to see more damage. The radiator support bracket being moved out of place also moved the radiator and condenser into contact with the trans cooler causing damage to the condenser. The condenser appears to be currently holding pressure, though. To do this job right, all these have to come out, repaired and put back together correctly. As it turns out, my decision to work on this, was a good one, because future headaches were just lurking ahead.

It also turns out that the porta power was not useful at all in this particular situation. Rather than sending it back to Amazon, I might keep it. It seems handy to have on hand, although it is another big item that needs to be stored somewhere in my crowded garage. I'll mull over that decision until the return date is nearly expired. I might change my mind.

Today I finished the removal of the radiator and the condenser, and after 16 years and 135K miles, I decided to treat this trusty ride to all new parts.They are expected in a couple of days from NAPA. I've been working on the bent radiator support bracket and I've got it near where is should be. I will fine tune the location when I get the new rad. Before I removed the condenser today, I gave Mostmint a call to discuss his R134a refrigerant recovery technique. I was able to reclaim about 30psi worth into my portable air tank. Before I start the assembly process, I have a piece of cracked plastic to repair and quite a bit of cleanup work since I have access.
More to come...

I decided to dig deeper today to make the work easier, so I removed the headlights and the big plastic frame that extends all the way across the truck. I'm running out of places to keep parts. I've resorted to the TBSS back seat. Now I have full access.Then I worked to get the RH radiator support bracket closer to where it needs to be (arrow). It's not quite there, but tomorrow's another day.I took the bent support bracket to NAPA machine shop and they straightened it for a measly $10. Looks good now (arrow).

After two more weeks of part time work, it's all complete. I procured a new radiator, condenser, and accumulator from NAPA. In the process of installation, I fixed a large crack in a plastic air diverter under the radiator. It likely was broken in the jacking incident. I also got some of that black foam used to insulate water pipes, split it in half and used it to seal both ends and the top of the the space between the radiator and the condenser.
This was to efficiently force air to the radiator instead of escaping through the top and sides of rad/condenser combination unit. If that makes any sense. As I was preparing to recharge the A/C, I wrestled a bit about how much oil to add to the system. I found a rule of thumb somewhere on the web that suggests adding 3 ounces of PAG 46 if you replace the condenser. Next question, what's the best way to add the oil to an empty A/C system?
(I had already made all the connections) I found this: https://youtu.be/vGpM8va2XFg It worked like a charm for me. In the process, though, I found that the valve in the high pressure port was not working, so I had to make a quick trip to NAPA to get a new one. Thirty minutes of pulling a vacuum (thanks, Maverick, for the vacuum pump) and thirty minutes watching for any loss of vacuum and I was good to go. No leaks!. Finally, I added 24 ounces of R134a (according to specs) and cool air was once again coming out of the vents. I'm looking forward to cool driving for the rest of the summer. It's been several years of adding refrigerant every couple of months. It would be good to close that trouble ticket at last.

A new trouble ticket was opened today while testing out the A/C today. The automatically leveling rear air suspension has collapsed. I found a broken ride height sensor on the LH side that has broken. I don't know if it was the result of the collapse or driving with no suspension, but that must be replaced before I can go any further. I spent several hours on the web and on the phone and I was unable to find the sensor anywhere. It is part # GM 25999463 for the LH side and is unique to the Trailblazer SS (RPO ZQ8). I'm stuck without it.

Did you try locating a Trailblazer SS in a junkyard? This part has to be on one somewhere.

Do you have a technique for searching junkyards nationally?