TireSmoke.org

So I'm on the verge of 12's with the T/A. To ensure that will come next year either way, I'm starting a list of things I plan to do this winter. I toyed with the idea of finding a nicer version of a Firebird / Camaro to put my running gear into, but after some deliberation this weekend, I've decided to just make this one faster instead and not worry about how it looks.

Here's the beginning of my list:

Torque converter-
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku

Intake manifold - probably an Edelbrock torker (try to find a good used one)
Roller rockers - most likely stamped type
Holley Carb - from Caddy (Caddy to get new one)
Shift Light
New button for line lock

More to come as I think of it...

-BP

I'm gonna say to not waste your money on roller rockers, unless you're changing the rocker ratio. When I first changed from stamped to roller (without changing ratio), I could never find a difference in my ET.

-Dave

So I made it into the 12's but, I'm still trying to get the alternator belt to stop wearing out so I've been trying to find an alternator bracket that mounts to the passenger's side (non A/C V8 olds - older).

In the mean time, 32v and I removed the performer intake today, to make way for the Torker intake which I've already located. It will fit with the HEI, but I'm a little worried about the height as it appears to be about 1/2" taller than the Performer, and the current air cleaner / hood scoop set up is pretty much out of room under the hood. I'll cross that bridge when necessary.

An updated list of things to do this winter will be a new torque converter (higher stall, obviously), and at least a set of drag radials.

-BP

The Oldsmobiles already come with 1.6 rockers, not much room there to change ratios.

The Torker intake is on as is the Holley carb. I only have a couple things left to do. With the change of the carb, I have to reroute the fuel line. I have to still hook up a couple vacuum lines, and top off the coolant.
To make the change I also had to change the air filter (see pics) for clearance. I also had to modify the throttle cable bracket and the cable itself.
I'm hoping this carb / manifold combo to be good for a tenth or two, but with a noticable increase in MPH. It will really work better with a looser converter. Once I get this all working right, I'll order the converter and pull the trans.
The transmission leaks like crazy as it sat forever. So when I pull it to do the converter, I'll change the front and rear seals, and I'll probably put a bigger pan on it.
The only thing left to do after that would be a set of drag radials which I'm hoping to find at Carlisle in a few weeks. Worst case I'll buy new Mickey Thompson's.

Definetly looking forward to making some passes again. A 12.50 at over 105 is sounding really good to me now...


-BP

Well, yesterday I rebent the fuel line, hooked up the vacuum lines, and started up the ugly bird. It wasn't completely successful as there was fuel leaking everywhere, and it was running RICH.
I had to redo the flare I made at the fuel pump to fix the leak there. I still need some new tiny gaskets for the bowl screws, and the accelerator pump on the primary side is leaking pretty bad. I also had to adjust the float on the secondaries as fuel was pouring into the secondaries.

So far, it holds coolant.

It was really good to hear it run again. I'll have it on the road by next weekend.

-BP

So a trip to Advanced Auto yielded a few new anti-leakage parts. Now that they're installed, I still have the leaking in the secondaries at idle. As you can imagine, this is not good. The only thing I can figure is the oring that goes into the metering block is no good and fuel is getting by. When I was putting the rear bowl back together, there was no friction between that oring and the metering block itself, which seems wrong to me. So now I'm hoping the parts store has one so I can get it running this weekend. If not, I've already ordered a complete rebuild kit off ebay last night just to have the parts around for later.

-BP

So I broke down and found a rebuild kit online for about $35. After replacing all the gaskets from the metering blocks out, new power valves, and cleaning it all up, the carb didn't leak any more gas where it wasn't supposed to. I was able to start the car, but had a very hard time keeping it running. With some tuning I got it to idle, but anytime I'd crack the throttle, it would fall on it's face and make a very strange squeeling noise.
After more screwing around than I'd like to admit to, I pulled the carb completely off to check the base gaskets for a good seal. What I found was that the center two screws that hold the base to the throttle body were MISSING. The gasket would flutter under high vacuum and create a vacuum leak and a crazy shuddering sqeak.
A trip to 32V's place for some spare parts from his lamp, and the Bird is running tip top with my new manifold and carb combo. There seems to be a real nice pull from 3000 up to 5000, where it used to crap out around 4800. I think it will pull to 5200 now, but only went on a short drive. What's surprising is that it doesn't seem like I lost much bottom end power, even with the stock converter still in there.
I'm guessing this upgrade alone should be good for at least three tenths, and maybe 2mph. I'm going to order my tires in the next week or two, even if I don't get the converter right away.

Next things to do (besides the tires):

-Install racing seats (probably remove many interior components)
-Put drag springs in the front
-Reroute my brake line from the master cylinder to the line lock (just noticed it was hitting the driver's hood spring)

-BP

I can just picture you flying down the 1320 with a lampshade sticking up through the hole in your hood.

If I could get it to light up...

-BP

You could get one of those bicycle generators and have it rub the front wheel. I bet that would light the lamp.

It would probably look like this:

Nice air intake!

NEW Parts arriving this week:

Mickey Thompson 255/60-15 Drag Radials
Summit shift light
TCI 11" torque converter (same as Caddy-around 3000 stall)

Things are starting to get more serious...

What do you think it will take to get a 12.20 out of this piece?

-BP

I have the new parts in my posession. CamaroBob and I mounted the tires today, but I need to get them balanced. They look pretty serious and are VERY soft.
I also received the torque converter, shift light, and I ordered a new transmission pan with cooling tubes in it. It looks a lot like this:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku

I should start on this stuff sometime this week.

-BP

Some thrashing on Sunday and a short stint on Monday evening with 32V, and the transmission is residing on an engine stand waiting for me to remove and replace the pan. We already replaced the front and rear seals, but will have to do some tranny line work as I had to cut them to get the trans out of the car.

The new torque converter is much smaller than stock, and should be a great improvement by lowering rotating mass, and increasing launch rpms. 32V is getting the drag radials balanced this week too. Hopefully in a week or two, this will all be back together and ready to tear up the track.

Before I set the car on the ground, the new drag springs will be going in also...

-BP