TireSmoke.org

Basement Paul wrote:You might want to mention inline 6, and the first line says it's a 5.9. Do you know the year?

-BP

Right. I caught the typo and fixed it. The rebuilt long block would cover a wide range of years. I could look it up and include that info. The engine is kinda dirty from sitting for 7 years or so.

ttamrettus wrote:A quick picture might help too. I typically sort by ads with pictures, for cars more than parts but it wouldn't hurt.

Thanks for the suggestion. If it doesn't sell in a week or so maybe I'll clean the engine up and snap a pic.

Thanks to WXO, video added to CR ad.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-_nm4Do3yFQ

I've done some research and selected Ford's 4R70W transmission to go behind the 5.8L. Made a list of vehicles that had that transmission with the SBF bell housing. (LOTS of 4R70Ws around with the mod motor (4.8L and 5.6L V8) but not so many with the SBF bell.) Visited my not-so-favorite junk yard, LKQ, this AM. They're cheap on some things but not so convenient to deal with. No transmission like I want.

This afternoon I visited my favorite JY and found the correct frame stands for the 5.8L in the '70 F100 and the "best stock 4R70W" for the 5.8L/351W. Its out of a '00 F150 with 4.2L V6.

Here's a post on a Lincoln forum that gets referenced from other forums.

BEST STOCK 4R70W THAT WILL BOLT TO WINDSOR V8

The BEST 4R70W trans that will bolt to a Windsor V8 is a '99 & newer 4.2 V6. It has all the best parts and the same number of clutches as the V8 mod motor transmissions. This trans has: best case, best accumulators, mechanical diode 1 way intermediate clutch, dimpled pan & extended pickup, 450hp capable gear set, best direct clutch drum, best direct clutch plates, best forward clutch wave plate good to 450 hp, best intermediate clutch (4 plate), best stub shaft). Just remember that for a car install, you must switch the manual lever to one from a car.
NEXT BEST 4R70W TRANS THAT BOLTS TO 5.0 & 5.8 is '98 3.8 V6 or 4.2 V6. The difference from '99-up 4.2 V6 which will bolt to 5.0 & 5.8 is 1 less intermediate clutch plate - easy to add - and the valve body does not have good direct clutch fluid exhaust for 4-2 manual shifts.
ALL prior to '98 do NOT have the expensive mechanical diode 1-way clutch

Got the frame stands out (4 hours!!) and will pick up the transmission tomorrow.

Well, I finally did a little more work on the F100. I've been researching, finding, and buying parts but no direct labor other than power spraying it. Got the seat and home-made console out and first pass at cleaning the floor. Cut the rust out of the passenger side floor and expect it will be an easy repair. I'm not trying to make it look original -- just removing the rusty metal and welding in new.

Didn't get a picture of the passenger side floor before cutting out the rust but it was a lot like the driver's side pictured below.



Doesn't look like I'll have to buy new floor panels (although its nice to know they are available), just some flat 18 gauge steel should work fine with a little bend for the front.

Was pleased to find a solid lip where the floor attaches to the rocker panel.



Here's the main piece that was cut out.

Picked up some 16 gauge (was looking for 18 gauge but none to be found) sheet steel for the floor. Had to buy twice as much (24"X24") as I needed but it was still half the cost of a (thin, I'm sure) repair panel for just ONE side. Oh well, I now have a life time supply.

I going to try butt welding the fender (and door?) repair panels rather than the overlaps that the Maverick got. The floors will be my practice to see how the butt welding goes. If it works it will be a lot neater.

Rough cut a piece about 1/2" larger than needed on the inside and front edges. Put a bend in the front for the toe board and drilled holes for the Clecos (I LOVE them) to hold it in place.



Then went under the truck and marked the outline to get the butted fit.





Trimmed the repair panel to butt up to the floor. Notice the holes along the outside edge so the repair panel can be plug welded to the rocker panel. Originally, the floor was spot welded to the rocker panel.



Now, you may think that slit in front outer corner is a errant cut but it's really there so a screw driver can be inserted to tap the panel to the side. Its a trick I learned from an old body man. That's my story and I'm stickin' to it.



WXO is coming over Monday PM and we'll share the welding duties. We both want practice. Should be able to get the other repair panel made and the garage cleaned up a little before then.

WXO brought his MIG welder over yesterday and we welded in the right floor patch. After grinding off the excess weld, I made a second pass this morning, ground that down and painted it with POR15.








Right side is done. The colors and white spots in the paint are reflections.

This "treasure" was found down in the side of the rear cab. No telling how many decades it has been there, if the kid missed it, or how grown up he is now.

I think you should restore the bulldozer, paint it the color of the truck, and when you go to car shows, you can rest it on the air cleaner.

-BP

Basement Paul wrote:I think you should restore the bulldozer, paint it the color of the truck, and when you go to car shows, you can rest it on the air cleaner.

-BP

It is a cute toy with a fun story. Maybe I'll put it in the "rust bucket" when I do the electrolysis de-rust on some parts.

The dozer and the truck belong together. That toy is now your truck's "mascot". I found a toy in the wheel well of my Impala and it still rides with the car everywhere I go. I think it's one of the baby dragons from the Shrek movie.

If you don't want to do the restore you could get a clear plastic case to show it.

MostMint wrote:The dozer and the truck belong together. That toy is now your truck's "mascot". I found a toy in the wheel well of my Impala and it still rides with the car everywhere I go. I think it's one of the baby dragons from the Shrek movie.

If you don't want to do the restore you could get a clear plastic case to show it.

All good ideas.

Been trying to discover how to get 400+ FWHP out of the 5.8L/351W engine for not too much money. Hope to get the F100 into the 12s. Decided today on the Edelbrock "Top End Kit".

SBF engine kit; For 351W S/B Ford - 451 hp & 433 ft/lbs. with hydraulic roller cam & RPM Xtreme heads 2090 (A)

POWER PACKAGE TOP-END KIT #2090 451HP/433 LB-FT OF TORQUE INCLUDES:
Part No. Description
2281 Performer RPM Hydraulic Roller Cam
79259 (2) Performer E-CNC Cylinder Heads, complete
6991 Timing Cover Gasket and Seal Set
7364 Cylinder Head Gasket Set
7581 RPM Air-Gap 351W intake manifold
8485 Intake Manifold Bolt Kit
8553 Cylinder Head Bolt Set
7820 Performer-Link Timing Set

Getting a good price from a local guy. He's done a number of them and gets 400 FWHP and a little from them. I'll order the kit Saturday and get it in 2-3 weeks.

The kit provides a matched set of components with valve springs matched to cam (spring strength and bind-free travel), sufficient piston-to-valve clearance, etc. Will have to check push rod length and maybe order ones to fit. In addition to the kit I'll still need carb, roller rockers, and headers. All in good time.

Wondering why it takes SOOO long to get it?

Summit should have that and you'd have it in two days...

-BP

Basement Paul wrote:Wondering why it takes SOOO long to get it?

Summit should have that and you'd have it in two days...

-BP

It really made no sense that it should take so long. But, it doesn't matter. Lots of stuff to do before I'll need those parts. And, I'm getting it for a lot less than Summit gets.

Less is good!

-BP