TireSmoke.org

Basement Paul wrote:That looks like a nice combo of stuff that will put that car IMO, into the mid-low 14's, and not screw up drivability. I think the Performer intake is a good move until you have LOTS of cam. The Performer RPM is not a good torque manifold, which is what you have in spades. My Caddy had a regular Performer on it, and I thought it worked great. Mid 13's and 5000 lbs...

I would recommend going to a 3" exhaust though. That's ALOT of cubic inches to get rid of.

-BP

Agree for performance objectives but I think the 3" might sound too harsh for the old girl. I'll probably use some glass packs as resonators. Haven't looked but I wonder if anyone makes 3" glass packs? Maybe 3" to the mufflers and 2.5" tail pipes?

wxo wrote:I'd like to put in a plug for 93 octane gas and a higher compression ratio. I've been using 93 in my TBSS since I got it and I consider it a cost of ownership. I don't even think about it when I go to the gas pump. I think it was Fred32v who brainwashed me.

To get more compression, the pistons would have to be replaced and maybe the block should be decked. At that point I'd probably stroke it and take another big slide down the slippery money slope. Its a scenario that's worth looking at before any parts are purchased. But, its hard for me to think about putting money into a short block that's already in great condition.

I think the price differential between 93 and 87 octane might grow disproportionally over time. I wouldn't want to get to the point where I don't drive it because of fuel cost. Today 93 is a 10-12% bump over 87 which is tolerable.

This morning, Sunoco 87 was 3.49, 94 was 3.89. Ok, $0.40/gal * 20 gal is $8.00 every 250 miles. Hmmm???
Just sayin'.

The difference here is about the same. Its not as significant as I thought it would be without doing the math. Facts are a good thing.

Its a good day today!! The parts list is decided for the 460 performance improvements.

Edelbrock alum heads 60679, 75cc chambers
Edelbrock Performer intake 2166
Lunati 11601 cam and lifter kit
Lunati alum roller rockers 15380
Lunati 9-key billet timing set 95530
Melling oil pump M84
Melling oil pump pickup 84CS2
Quickfuel 750 Slayer vac sec SL750VS (need the version with Ford kick-down lever)
Procomp alum valve covers PC3265
Fel Pro complete gasket set KS2305
Plugs Autolite 3924
Fuel pump Edelbrock 1726
Oil pump drive shaft - no charge

$75.00..... flat rate shipping

Parts are based on recommendations from and supplied by Carl of CarsByCarl, http://carsbycarl.com/ Carl is in Colorado Springs and is helpful, knowledgeable, and a very pleasant guy to talk to. Talked on the phone with him a few times and had several emails back and forth. I think he gave me good prices -- total is a little less than I was estimating.

Still need to investigate headers some. None are designed for the Lincoln. Most owners use Hooker 6126 designed for 1972-75 Torino, Ranchero and 1972-75 Cyclone, Montego. 1.875" tubes and 3" collectors. The collectors have to be shortened some to clear the trans cross member plus massaging in a couple of places. They are the closest fit long tubes. I'd like to find some shorties that would fit but haven't run that one down yet. There's precious little room between the driver's side head and steering box and main front cross member. I'm concerned about road clearance with the long tubes. The Lincoln already sits pretty low.

Carl's expectation is 466 HP at 5500 and 504 TQ at 4000, with 400+TQ from 2000-5500 rpm. Maybe 375 RWHP? Should be ample torque.

I'll buy a water pump, plug wires, dist cap, rotor, and headers.

Maybe call these guys:

http://www.sandersonheaders.com/Sanders ... baker.html

I had Sanderson headers in my Caddy. They fit with some coaxing... Gotta be better than stock manifolds.

-BP

I went to their site and asked about headers for a 460 in a Lincoln.

http://www.sandersonheaders.com/support ... resh=79851

I'm sure he's referring me to the Hooker headers for the 460 Fords. The question has been asked of them before. Not that it would change anything, but I wonder if he knows the 460 is original to the Lincoln, not a transplant.

Placed the order with Carl yesterday. Multiple shipments should arrive in 1-2 weeks.

I looked for Hooker shorties with the same applications (460 Fords/Mercurys) as the 6126 Hooker long tubes but didn't find any. Sent a query to Hooker tech support hoping they'll have something good to say about shorties for the Lincoln. I can use the long tubes but prefer to find some shorties. Actually, the modded long tubes tuck up nicely on a Lincoln but, besides "clearancing" in a couple of spots, there are also issues with closeness to cables, starter access, etc. Shorties would be adequate, simpler and less expensive.

WXO and I have been kicking around the pros and cons of pulling the engine to work on it or not. If pulling it, should the C6 come out together with the engine? The C6 will come out to do the shift kit but attached to the 460? That combo would be HEAVY!! Still thinking about all that. The right idea might be to remove the IRON intake, exhaust manifolds, and heads (with the engine lift) and THEN lift the long block/C6 out. Might even get by without removing the L O N G hood. Going back in it'll be lighter.

Have to figure something out to avoid cam break in with open 3" headers. Would get me shunned in the neighborhood at least. Probably should cobble something up temporarily and let the muffler shop redo it.

It's only 20 minutes. Put in some ear plugs, rev her up to 2 grand, and breath in the smoke!

I wouldn't spend 2 hours making your neighbors happy. If you do it in the middle of the day, they'll survive.

Have you looked into a better flowing cast iron manifold? Something for a 428-429 that will fit on that 460? I'm sure there's something from the muscle car era that would flow better than what you have.

-BP

When I put the 460 in my truck, I found a pair of cast manifolds that were substantially bigger than stock. I don't know what to look for, though.

I remember noticing the impressive exhaust manifolds on WXO's 460. I think there were some 429/460 Cobra Jet heads and intakes. Maybe there were CJ exhaust manifolds too? Whatever they were, if they were found today I expect they'd go for a pretty penny. I'll post your picture on the 460 forum and see if anyone identifies them.

Anyway, too late. I ordered the Hooker long tubes from Summit today. I'll have to do whatever it takes to get them in.

Also ordered another Summit fender cover so both fenders can be protected. They have a fold right where its needed to catch the ridge on the tops of the Lincoln fenders.

And, an adjustable push rod. I think the roller rockers take a little different push rod length. Lunati tech support gave me a different length than what's listed in my "Ford V8 Engines" book for stock push rods. When I tried to order push rods from Carl, he said I should measure first. Anyone have 8"-9" calipers? Actually, I think I saw some while looking for an adjustable push rod. I'll have another look.

And, a lifter for $3 that I'll make solid for the measurement. With all the variations in Ford parts, the same flat hydraulic lifter is used in SFB, FE, and BBF.

I am pretty sure I did engine swaps on both a '68 and a '69 Lincoln before running them in demo derbies. They were both 460 C6 with all the cast iron parts still on. While the backward hoods did require removal, I don't remember having any weight issues. I was using a front end loader instead of an engine lift, but my little tractor was only rated to 900 lbs and the hydraulics self limited only slightly above that. The C6 really isn't that heavy and the 460 is mostly air . I also know I pulled Walt's engine with a C6 attached out of my Mustang, but that was aluminum intake and headers disconnected. I don't think I had to remove the shorter-than-a-Lincoln-but still-long '73 Mustang hood to get both out. I would personally go with pulling both together as it is easier.

Thanks for suggestions. I'll have a close look at it before it comes out.

Recall the 1/2" spot on the left fender above the rocker panel with bubbled paint and surface rust.
As posted before, the trim was pulled from the rockers and the surface rust was treated with OSPHO, wire brushed, and painted with POR 15 and touchup paint. The result isn't perfect but the imperfections won't be noticeable unless the car in on a lift.
Getting the right touch up paint was an ordeal. Ordered "correct" touch up paint for the Lincoln but the first bottle was broken in shipping. They were good about sending me another bottle, but the color was WAY off, kind of a metallic dark charcoal. It was very close to WXO's Trailblazer SS so I passed it along to him. Complained again and sent pictures showing how far off the color was. After a few days, another bottle was shipped. They obviously re-mixed the paint but it was now not-so-dark metallic charcoal. Gave up on them and bought some generic metallic silver and its quite close.

The headers arrived this week. I decided to install the headers on the engine as it is and get the new exhaust system installed before the engine enhancements are done. That way it'll have mufflers for the cam break in. The LH header, where it has to contend with the steering box and shifter bell crank, fit better than I expected and its in place. I'll post details and pictures of the necessary "accommodations" when the header installation is done. Although the RH header was supposed to "fall right in", a couple of things have to be done before it can be installed.

Running the engine with the headers in place will put one or two witness marks on the headers so I'll know where to make a little clearance when they come back out for the engine work. After the dents, they'll get some hi temp paint and some wrapping in critical places.

Three boxes of go-fast engine goodies have been shipped and should arrive on Tuesday. Lots of little things are being lined up for the engine work. Fun, fun, fun!!

The headers are in for the umpteenth time. They'll come out again and there are still some issues to solve but, all-in-all, I think they fit pretty well considering they weren't designed for this application. The plan is to do the engine improvements (Performer intake, QuickFuel carb, Performer RPM heads, Lunati roller rockers, Lunate cam and lifters, double roller timing sprockets/chain and, of course, Hooker 6126s) but first do the exhaust. Gotta get mufflers on before the cam break in if I want to stay on friendly terms with the neighbors.

Driving a few miles with the headers installed is probably going to leave 1-3 witness marks on the headers. When they come back out for the engine work, the witness marks will let me know where to do a little massaging.

These are the issues with the header install:

Left Side:

1. Shifter bell crank. It was in contact with the headers. Another pair of holes was drilled in the frame-side bracket to mount it back 9/16". That gave at least 1/8" clearance and the shifter still works OK with the bell crank a little crooked.



2. Minimal or no clearance with the frame. Expect to see a mark on the headers.



3. Minimal or no clearance with the adjusting stud on the steering box. Probably another mark.

4. Transmission cooling lines. I removed about 3" from both lines where they go under the transmission to allow them to be shifted away from the headers. Spliced them together with 3" of transmission cooler rubber tubing. That provided adequate clearance for the left header.



No problem with the headers contacting the transmission cross member, as was reported in the Lincoln forum, and it lines up well in front of the hump in the cross member. Another installer had to cut the collectors and curve them down to fit in the cross member hump. Maybe the headers changed or ?????



Right Side:

1. The headers sat right on the brake line for the RF caliper and on the fuel tank vent tube.



a. The fuel tank vent tube was cut and re-routed to get it out of the way.
b. The brake line was bent to get some clearance. Clearance will be adequate for a few mile drive to the exhaust shop but its still too close. It'll be re-routed when the engine is out. This view is from the top.



2. The holes in the header flange were not spaced perfectly. I drilled them out another 1/64" and elongated the 2 end holes a bit to let the bolts start.

3. Transmission cooler lines. Removing pieces of the lines where they go under the transmission provided enough clearance on the right side for the trip to the exhaust shop but they're still too close. The header will be wrapped on that spot for the trip to exhaust shop but the cooler lines will have to be re-routed. That'll get worked on when the engine is out.



No problem with the header hitting the transmission cross member and the collector lines up nicely in front of the hump in the cross member.



I'll call Monday for an appointment with the Henry's Muffler Shop. Hope to get it done next week.