TireSmoke.org

Took the 2nd pump, an Airtex, back to Advance auto. Picked up the 3rd from CarQuest which turned out to be another Airtex with CarQuest branding. Just as I was about to try it out, WXO dropped by. Good timing!! After MANY spurts and sputters the 3rd pump finally filled the carb bowl and the 302 HO was running!! We have some video but not all we intended.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WsGVf61syq0

Set the timing and WXO adjusted the carb. Runs pretty good but there's a balance issue. The engine is an '86-'88. '86 pistons, '87 block, and it came with '86 heads (that combination was shipped by the factory) which I replaced with better '87-up "E7TE" heads. Any crank in that era would have a 50 oz imbalance that must be counterbalanced with the correcct flex plate and harmonic balancer. (Earlier 302s had a 28 oz imbalance.) I bought and installed new 50 oz flex plate and harmonic balancer but something is badly out of balance. While firing smoothly, the engine shakes the car at approx 1000-1500 rpm. Best case the balancer is not a 50 oz. I still have the balancer that came on the HO. When I get back home in 2-3 weeks I'll probably install that one and see if it fixes the shake.

Next best case would be the ebay flex plate isn't 50 oz. I don't have another 50 oz flex plate. No production car ever used a 50 oz flex plate that fits the small bell housing for a C4. If I got snookered with my ebay aftermarket flex plate, the only option will be to buy another. Hope I'll be able to see the counter weights with the inspection cover off and identify them as 28 oz or 50 oz.

Other possibility is the crank is not a 50 oz crank. I don't want to think about that. The mystery will have to wait till I get back. It's time to remind myself that I DID want a project!

Don't know if anyone wants to read this update. Its a little tedious and I'm copying this from an email I sent to some of you while tiresmoke.org was down. Its interesting to me 'cause no one could tell me how to test the flexplate imbalance. This is the kind of stuff that's most fun for me. Unless I reach a wrong conclusion, that is.

Think I posted the successful engine start about 3 weeks ago. WXO is editing some video to post when tiresmoke is up again. Engine idled smoothly but had a pretty violent shake above idle. I'm sure its a balance problem since it idles smoothly and shakes at higher RPM with no indication of misfire.

A LITTLE BACKGROUND:

302/5.0 SBF cranks are externally balanced. 28 oz up to '80/'81 and 50 oz thereafter. External balance is provided by the harmonic balancer and flexplate. My '72 302 is 28 oz. The 302 HO is 50 oz.

ASSUMPTION:

I'm assuming there isn't an internal problem so that leaves three potential causes of the imbalance: harmonic balancer, flexplate, and new torque converter.

HARMONIC BALANCER:

I bought a new 50 oz harmonic balancer 'cause the rubber ring in the one that came with the 302 HO was deteriorating. I eyeballed the balancer on the engine and compared it to a couple of 28 oz balancers and a 50 oz. It looked like a 50 oz and I've never found anyone having a balance problem with a new harmonic balancer. Decided to try other possibilities first.

TORQUE CONVERTER:

Got a new TC with my Strip/Street C4 from Broader Performance in Texas. People have reported balance problems with new TCs but I'm guessing the ebay flexplate is the most likely culprit. So, decided to check the flexplate first.

FLEXPLATE:

WXO and I pulled the C4 back out yesterday and I pulled the flexplate. Now, how to check the balance???? I'd been noodling the question of how to check the flexplate since we found the balance problem three weeks ago. Considered a few approaches but decided to seek professional help first. Called the machine shop that worked on the block and asked them if they could determine the flexplate imbalance or just verify it's for 50 oz imbalance. Only thing they could do is balance the whole rotating assembly and referred me to a guy at a transmission parts place. All he could do was look in his catalog and pull a small 28 oz flexplate for comparison. But, I already had one of those and I couldn't be certain of the new flexplate balance just by comparing them. He suggested I check with the local Mustang parts place. Decided to come home and try to determine for myself if the flexplate was the problem.

I'm 85% confident my new ebay alleged 50 oz flexplate is really 28 oz. I'll describe how I got there since no one seemed to know how to determine the imbalance.

I positioned the new flexplate on my known 50 ozer, rotated 180 degrees to place the counterweights opposite each other. With the top flexplate rotated 180 degrees, four crank flange bolt holes line up. I inserted two flywheel bolts into two of the holes to line up the flexplates and two bolts to fasten the assembly together in the other two matching holes. Then the flywheel mounting bolts were removed.



I cut the head off a long 1/4" bolt and clamped it horizontally in my vice and hung the paired flexplates with the 1/4" bolt sticking thru one of the holes where the mounting bolts had been. This positioned the two counterweights in an approximate horizontal line. If the imbalances of the flex plates were the same, the two flexplates should hang with the center of the flexplate directly below the 1/4" bolt. To check that I made a pointer from a straight welding rod.




The welding rod was hung by the loop from the 1/4" bolt and, when everything settled, the position of the pointer at the bottom of the ring gear was marked. Then the attached flexplates were hung from the other empty aligned bolt hole, 180 degrees from the first one. Again the position of the pointer was marked on the ring gear. If the flexplates have the same imbalance, the two marks should be 180 degrees apart.

Here's the result of pairing the new flexplate with the known 50 ozer. The welding rod is positioned on the two marks on the ring gear.




Here's what happened when the new flexplate was matched with a known 28 oz flexplate.




All pretty crude, but I'm 85% certain the new flexplate is 28 oz. I ordered a B&M small 50oz flexplate from Summit last night. I'm offering 2:1 odds that the new flexplate solves the problem. Place your bets.

I REALLY miss tiresmoke.org!!

The new 50 oz flexplate from Summit solved the problem. The one I got from ebay was obviously 28 oz imbalance. The counterbalance on the Summit flexplate was thicker, wider and longer than the on one the ebay flexplate.

.

WXO came over again and we put it all back together. NO SHAKES!!!

The Maverick dash has a vinyl pad in the middle and painted steel on the top and bottom thirds. I painted the top third of the steel dash and the vinyl pad about a year ago. On the advice of the counter guy at the paint store, I used vinyl paint on both the pad and the steel but I'm not really satisfied with either. Some small surface rust spots near the (leaking, no doubt) windshield are bubblling the paint and UV damage to the pad soaked up the paint like unfinished wood. Then, when I sprayed the body, some white paint got thru my masking job and onto the passenger end of the lower third. Decided to pull the dash out and paint the whole thing and put another coat on the pad. Its out.



Had the steering wheel off to work on a sticky ignition switch that wouldn't return from the "start" to the "run" position by itself. Had to make sure the cause wasn't OLD hard grease in the steering column. Got everything moving freely in the steering column but the switch would still not return to "run". Replaced the switch and all is well.

While the wheel was off I took it into the laundry room and gave it a good scrub. Looks pretty good now. I ordered an epoxy kit from Eastwood to repair a couple of cracks in it. That should arrive on Thursday.



I stripped the dash with aircraft stripper.




Its treated with rust stabalizer, primed and ready for color spray.

Its going to be in the high 90s all this week in Raleigh so not sure how much I'll accomplish this week.

Sure is nice to be able to DRIVE the Mav in and out of the shop. Guess its time to return WXO's winch.

Great progress Maverick, it's all about the details.

I finally got the video clip of the Maverick startup edited and on YouTube. It took about 12 hours to upload it, so put some popcorn in the microwave, and grab a beer.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WsGVf61syq0

I also edited this same link into it's proper place in the narrative above.

WXO, good job of editing. Thanks for doing that. I know you spent a lot of time on it.

The Sprint now moves under its own power for the first time in 21 years.

Always something special about that very first start. Way to go!

When the engine was running it was time to get on with some less fun stuff. I finished (maybe would be better to say I quit) buffing. Have no idea how many days I buffed but I did it in two session that lasted as long as I could take them. Bro Willy says "find a license plate that says 'good enof". I'll post some pictures when I get some of the exterior reassembled, pin strips and decals on.

Also spent countless hours trying to bring some Craigslist American Racing Outlaw II alum wheels back to life. WXO even came one day to sand, steel wool, etc them with me. Think he sensed my frustration. I/we have 2 wheels half done. Been dropping hints to my bride that I need some NEW wheels. Also emailed a local place to see what they wanted to refinish the wheels. Was supposed to get a call today but didn't.

I picked up a pair of new 235X60X15 BFG Radial TAs for $120 on Craigslisst. Had one mounted on the 15X7 AR wheels for test fits. It fits all the way around. Well, actually, I didn't try it on the RF. Probably should just to be sure. Backspacing is 3.75". 4" would be better and 4.25" would be OK too. I keep drooling over a set of Cragar SS chrome wheels but so far have resisted.

Got my "rust bucket" going again and did the electrolysis treatment on the five original wheels and then treated them to a couple coats of Eastwood Rust Encapsulator and Underhood Black. Eastwood said those two were compatible and they seem to be. Got my Craigslist 205X70X14 tires mounted and balanced. I'll run them with the original chrome trim rings and dog dish hubcaps till I pull the trigger on th Cragars and buy another pair of TAs.

Got started on the headliner. When I pulled the old one out the front was full of old mouse nests. What a mess!! Ever clean out old mouse nests OVER YOUR HEAD??? That was nasty!! Anyway, got it cleaned up and put new insulation in the roof. Its 1/4" rubber sticky on one side and foil on the other. Think it'll help keep the noise, heat and cold out. I'll put that throughout the whole cabin.



Put all the screws that go under the headliner in place -- screw heads for sun visors, dome light, etc, are easier to find than holes when you're feeling for them under the new headliner. Also took pictures to show where things are so I can find them under the liner.



Today I put the headliner in place, stretched it, made some stress cuts and clipped it in place with clothes pins and paper clamps.



I'll leave it like that to let the vinyl adjust to the stretching. Next step is to use a hair dryer as necessary to stretch and shrink the liner to remove any remaining wrinkles. Then its trim and glue time. Might not get back at it tomorrow 'cause a repairman is coming to work on our alarm system and in the evening Schuckie and I are going out for our 48th wedding anniversary dinner. Maybe I'll finish the headliner on Thursday. This hot weather is good for doing headliners. Makes the vinyl realy stretchy.

Glued the headliner in today. Looks pretty good, I think. There's some minor creases where it was folded for shipping and some minor wrinkles that I hope will come out with the hair dryer. Its a challenge to get a flat piece of vinyl to take the concave shape of the roof with no wrinkles. I'm pleased with the result.

Looks great! (and also looks pretty tough to do)

Can't wait to see this thing done. I love it!

-BP

Basement Paul wrote:Looks great! (and also looks pretty tough to do)

Can't wait to see this thing done. I love it!

-BP

Thanks, BP. We may have to make two Carlisle trips next year to get the WXO GTO and the Maverick both up there.

I think you guys oughta consider a trip to the Dream Cruise in Detroit next summer.

-Dave

I've thought about it. Wife and I grew up 60 mi NE of Detroit and go back every Summer. Old friend keeps telling me I gotta bring the Maverick up for the cruise when its done.

I haven't been there but, I've heard its a BIG traffic jam. Fun to watch but no fun to drive in. I'll continue to think about it.

There's a REALLY fun cruise in our home town, Port Huron. No muflers? Can't see thru the tire smoke? No problem! Cops just let 'em have fun. I'd like to do that one but 1600 miles round trip in a 1972 car might be more "fun" than wifey needs. Maybe I'll figure out a way.

How about a tow bar or tow dolly?