MKII GTI VR6

[Basement Paul]

Yeah, we had a little fun on 44 Friday. The VW was looking great, and at WOT it sounds like a race car! The Caddy has just recently developed a problem with leaking fluid out of the rear tranny seal. I'll update more in my projects. But while VeeDub and I were screwing around, I was leaving a smoke screen behind the Caddy... I'll have to get on a scale next year to see if I hit the magic 5000 lb mark.

The weather was awesome the last few days, I wish I could have put more miles on too.

-BP

[VeeDub]

Time to start on some winter projects. I've been going to Pull a Part here and there. Got some good stuff to keep me busy..

Audi 90 cloth seats from a 1995. I'm going to get these recovered. There super comfortable, supportive AND heated not to mention cheap!


Corrado VR6 Rear axle with spindles and Cross drilled discs. The beam that is on it now is for a 16V. The 16V bar is not as stiff as the 6cyl bar and not as wide. The discs and splash shields will be replaced with the ones already on the car. The red bars are aftermarket swaybars I got from a guy in Maryland for $40. These would retail new, for close to $400. Im going to have these sand blasted. Than I'll paint em.

Better shot of the Stabilacorse bar. This will add increased torsional rigidity to the VR6 axle. That increase will result in less understeer and quicker steering response. All that and no increase in unsprung weight. Also pictured are some twin piston Girling front calipers and carriers (from PAP). Rebuild kits for these are anywhere from $7 to $25ish. Performance pad selection is excellent for these guys.These will bolt right on the Corrado hubs and will replace the single piston units. I can sand blast these myself at Tiresmokers. Ive been wanting to try out his blast cabinet. .
Not pictured is a ATE m/c from an Audi 100 - 1991. This sucker looks almost new! I paid $8 ...buy new for $371.00!! Its slightly larger piston diameter of 23.81mm (compared to 22mm) will provide more power to the new Girling 60mm twins. A direct bolt in also.

[MostMint]

All these upgrades.... Wondering if we'll get to see them in action on a track day at Nelson come April?

[VeeDub]

I was thinking of a going turbo???
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jtvLtkGHTjI

[VeeDub]

Pulled this out tonight. Explains the poor mileage. Can partially explain the lack of power...well, it just doesn't have the snap it used to (10 years ago ).
When i started to pull the plugs I was actually hoping to see this. If the plugs were "normal" I'd have more to be concerned about. There is also some carbon. Is that result of blowby? I'm a little afraid to do a compression test.
Ignorance is bliss comes to mind. Tiresmoker says to just drive it for a year or so before engine rebuilding and that kinda stuff. I agree with him. If I test the compression and its low, it will bug the **** out of me because I will want to fix that. So i'll resist the temptation.
Ive got some ideas on whats causing the richness. Coolant temp. sensor, vac line(s) leaking, o2.... Its gonna run better when thats richness is fixed!

[VeeDub]

Got an OBD2 diagnostic connector from PAP. They didn't charge me! The engine in the car is OBD1. . Ive also got a free (legal!) copy of VAGCOM. This is the software used to pull, erase and modify settings off of VW's and Audi ECU's. I just need a laptop and a $40 USB to OBD2 connector to start diagnosing at home. This will save time and money. Might as well use the technology to my advantage. Installation of the car connector is easy.

Heres the new seat fabric. The plaid looks great with the exterior color. Its a heavier upholstery fabric. Should wear very well. Cant decide on the color for the seat bolsters. I definitely want a suede or alcantara. Fabric samples are a synthetic suede used used in corporate jets and yachts. These should also hold up well.


Sewing the seats will be interesting.

[MostMint]

Go with the middle one.

Don't they have industrial sewing machines at HGR?

[TireSmoker]

I have a USB-OBD2 interface.

-Dave

[VeeDub]

Go with the middle one.

Don't they have industrial sewing machines at HGR?

The middle one was my pick also, that photo doesn't show it, but the problem is that it looks like a velvet when the light hits it.
The plaid is almost a match for my families celebration Tartan. GTi's also have used plaid from the factory on their seats. So there are a couple of reasons for the plaid. not just a "look" I'm going for.

Ive got a sewing machine that should work.. Ive been getting some outrageous price quotes from around here. $600 per seat w/my material. The door cards and headliner are easy. I just got to get a cheap cup gun to spray glue($20~$40). Ive worked with fabric at work a bunch in the past. So I'm going to try it.
My Grandfather long ago did the leather seats himself in his XK120. It was a show car so hopefully I got some of his good traits. I gotta get on the interior, Were not on OT at work - yet, but its coming. Once that starts so will the procrastination.... and this is a good inside/ winter thing.

[VeeDub]

I didn't get anything done on the interior this winter. It will get there.
The coolant temp. sensor was causing the rich condition. Cheap fix ($8). Tiresmoker got me pointed in the right direction on that diagnosis. Thanks

[VeeDub]

FPR was bad also. It runs much better.
Had to do this to take care of a few things:

[VeeDub]

Movin along: Messy



Strange V6 huh



Small ding on no.1 piston (lower right). Not from me?? Its been opened up before - Found out from dis-assembly the engine has aftermarket gaskets in it. Stock bore though. Timing was a half tooth off.. I'm pretty sure as the intermediate shaft was 3 degrees off. Gotta run it. Smoothed out the edges of the ding.
The heads on. Water pump in. Didnt get to the timing chains, they were done though, Maybe by next weekend I'll finish up. Got all the parts. Fairly involved job. Sorry for the big pics. I'll resize the next ones (lazy now)

[VeeDub]

Got it back in last weekend 5/20/12

Went with a composite valve cover to try to lower intake manifold temps.

The arrow on the sprocket should be at 12 o'clock or 6. The 1/2 tooth off is equal to about 4 degrees of cam timing. It had moved - i think- from sitting for so long that the tensioner bled down. It happens according to the vr6 "pros".

Almost done. "Newer" style timing chain kit. Should be good for 150,000 miles + now.

In this pic you can see the line that separates the rust and clean metal. I used a product called Evapo-rust. The corrosion was enough that I didn't just want to rely on the 'Benz stuff. I did another treatment to submerge the remainder of the water jackets. The stuff is great. Google it up. The only stuff it didn't get was the normal coolant deposits(which it shouldn't) the Citric acid will finish that up.
New urethane rear motor mount in. New solid rubber trans mount to replace the "older" one in there. Solid aluminum front on its way from a guy in new Mexico. Got it used on the cheap. Should be nice in there. The motor was moving around quite a bit when shifting aggressively. Should be tip top without to much additional vibration. The current front one in the VR will go in my 8 valve, as will the older trans mount,well there all toast in my 8v. Works out perfect. Killed 2 birds with one stone and saved $
So all new motor mounts for both cars (minus a $ 25 rear mount for the 8 valver still got to buy) so all are now/will be upgraded
Ported the lower intake manifold. Should be worth a couple of H.P. I'm also deleting the EGR and PCV systems as these will most likely cause running issues later. Got the required resistors for the EGR sensors so the ecu's happy and wont throw a CEL. Capped off the appropriate lines for both also. Venting the gases via a K&N on the valve cover.
Didn't get to finish it this weekend because on thurs (5/24)I had surgery on my thumb/hand. Sitches come out 6/1. Hopefully my hand will be off its "vacation" and the car will be done this weekend. My 8 valve needs love.

[VeeDub]

getting closer.
hopefully Start up today.

[Basement Paul]

Looks awesome!

-BP