The first pictures I have of the 460 that we loaded into fred32v's Ranger were dated 10/21/2000. If I recall correclty this was already being planned before that.
On 10/21/2000 my youngest was just over six months old, the Camaro was still in production, LTV Steel was still in business, and the twin towers were still standing.
That 460 was traded to Tim for his 460 right?
Tim knapp's 460 swap into Walt's '69 F250
Moderators: MostMint, wxo, Fred32v, Basement Paul, ttamrettus
I've been picking at the final assembly items for the last week or so.
I located all the correct wires and hooked up the ignition and starting circuits and added the plug wires.
After installing the A/C compressor, I found that it's pulley groove doesn't match up with the rest of the pulleys. I guess I won't have the luxury of cold air for awhile. But, I lucked out on the alternator and power steering pulleys and they both matched up and I got belts to fit them. Installing the radiator was easy, but when I put the fan shroud on, it interfered with the A/C compressor pulley. A little work with a rasp made some clearance for the time being. It may fit better when I get the right pulley for the compressor.
The next hurdle was bolting Tim's fan to the water pump. There's not much space for hands and wrenches inside the fan shroud. I managed to get to it from underneath. Those cooling fins on the radiator sure can slice up your hands.
Finally, I ran out of parts to put back so I added water and gas and here's the rest of the story:
Startup video (33MB): http://www.tiresmoke.org/walt/startup.avi
Cam breakin (10MB): http://www.tiresmoke.org/walt/cam_breakin.avi
After breakin (9 MB): http://www.tiresmoke.org/walt/after_breakin.avi
I had to stop up a few leaks (oil, gas & water) and I still have to deal with a coolant leak somewhere around the water pump. After the initial run-in I changed the oil and filter and let everything cool down (including me with a coupla beers). I still have a lot to sort out. The clutch needs more work. It barely releases and I'm a bit disappointed in that, but I drove it up the street and back. At least now Randi has her garage space back.
The next few days will be spent tuning and fixing stuff. I will make a decision on Monday evening if I need to wash the Vette or not.
By the way...Tim...can you remember when this motor last ran?
I located all the correct wires and hooked up the ignition and starting circuits and added the plug wires.
After installing the A/C compressor, I found that it's pulley groove doesn't match up with the rest of the pulleys. I guess I won't have the luxury of cold air for awhile. But, I lucked out on the alternator and power steering pulleys and they both matched up and I got belts to fit them. Installing the radiator was easy, but when I put the fan shroud on, it interfered with the A/C compressor pulley. A little work with a rasp made some clearance for the time being. It may fit better when I get the right pulley for the compressor.
The next hurdle was bolting Tim's fan to the water pump. There's not much space for hands and wrenches inside the fan shroud. I managed to get to it from underneath. Those cooling fins on the radiator sure can slice up your hands.
Finally, I ran out of parts to put back so I added water and gas and here's the rest of the story:
Startup video (33MB): http://www.tiresmoke.org/walt/startup.avi
Cam breakin (10MB): http://www.tiresmoke.org/walt/cam_breakin.avi
After breakin (9 MB): http://www.tiresmoke.org/walt/after_breakin.avi
I had to stop up a few leaks (oil, gas & water) and I still have to deal with a coolant leak somewhere around the water pump. After the initial run-in I changed the oil and filter and let everything cool down (including me with a coupla beers). I still have a lot to sort out. The clutch needs more work. It barely releases and I'm a bit disappointed in that, but I drove it up the street and back. At least now Randi has her garage space back.
The next few days will be spent tuning and fixing stuff. I will make a decision on Monday evening if I need to wash the Vette or not.
By the way...Tim...can you remember when this motor last ran?
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Fred, there's a lot of satisfaction in hearing this thing fire up, but it wasn't half as much fun as having you here to move things along. Thanks for your supreme effort to come down and visit. We had a great time gettin' greasy.
I'm still hoping to drive Ol' Blue to Carisle, but she's gotta show me some sense of solidarity. I don't want to ruin a great weekend by having a breakdown adventure comin' or goin'. Too much unproven stuff at work for such a long trip.
I'm still hoping to drive Ol' Blue to Carisle, but she's gotta show me some sense of solidarity. I don't want to ruin a great weekend by having a breakdown adventure comin' or goin'. Too much unproven stuff at work for such a long trip.
Well, now that we are all back from Carlisle I see a lot of TireSmoke project activity.
At Carlisle, I was looking for an electronic distributor for the 460, but saw none at all. I spent a lot of time today investigating options. It turns out that the Accel dual point distributor that I have is the best choice. I was able to download the installation instructions for this unit and learned that both the mechanical and vacuum advance mechanisms are totally adjustable!! If I decide to go electronic, I can get a Pertronics unit for this distributor for about $100.
Tomorrow I will be picking up the correct cap and rotor for it, then I will commence to sorting out the misfire problem.
If the coil is causing it, I brought back two more from Carlisle. I got two for ten bucks. One should work.
At Carlisle, I was looking for an electronic distributor for the 460, but saw none at all. I spent a lot of time today investigating options. It turns out that the Accel dual point distributor that I have is the best choice. I was able to download the installation instructions for this unit and learned that both the mechanical and vacuum advance mechanisms are totally adjustable!! If I decide to go electronic, I can get a Pertronics unit for this distributor for about $100.
Tomorrow I will be picking up the correct cap and rotor for it, then I will commence to sorting out the misfire problem.
If the coil is causing it, I brought back two more from Carlisle. I got two for ten bucks. One should work.
Well...the misfiring is not the coil. I tried all three coils and there was no change. I'm going to go over the distributor with a fine tooth comb tomorrow.
I'm also quite disappointed that the water leak is still there after tightening all the bolts. I'm going to borrow the pressure tester from Wheels4Hope tomorrow and pump up the cooling system pressure. It should force the coolant out where it can be seen easily.
Stay tuned....
I'm also quite disappointed that the water leak is still there after tightening all the bolts. I'm going to borrow the pressure tester from Wheels4Hope tomorrow and pump up the cooling system pressure. It should force the coolant out where it can be seen easily.
Stay tuned....
The saga continues...
It turns out that the Accel dual point distributor is a bit worn. The shaft wobbles and makes it impossible to set the points accurately. I bought a rebuilt single point unit last night. I'll use it for now with the idea of adding a Pertronics electronic conversion later.
As for the leak, I don't even want to think about it. I'll deal with it after I get the ignition working to my satisfaction. At this point I think I will need to remove the timing cover. The coolant seems to be coming from between the timing cover and the engine block. It turns out that the pressure tester didn't have the right adapters to use on my radiator so I couldn't pinpoint the leak like I wanted to. Anyway I'll deal with this issue later.
It turns out that the Accel dual point distributor is a bit worn. The shaft wobbles and makes it impossible to set the points accurately. I bought a rebuilt single point unit last night. I'll use it for now with the idea of adding a Pertronics electronic conversion later.
As for the leak, I don't even want to think about it. I'll deal with it after I get the ignition working to my satisfaction. At this point I think I will need to remove the timing cover. The coolant seems to be coming from between the timing cover and the engine block. It turns out that the pressure tester didn't have the right adapters to use on my radiator so I couldn't pinpoint the leak like I wanted to. Anyway I'll deal with this issue later.
Finally!!!!....a step in the right direction. The new single point stock distributor seems to have solved the ignition problems. At first I was having a devil of a time getting it started...until I realized that I had run it out of gas. Good thing I had a coupla gallons of lawn mower gas.
I still have to figure out why the voltage to the coil is not getting reduced by the ballast resistor like it's supposed to. My understanding is that the coil should get 12 volts only when the starter is operating, then it should be reduced to 7 or 8 volts by the ballast resistor. This is not happening. I'm getting 12 volts all the time. I understand the the reduction in voltage is designed to keep the points from prematurely burning up. If anyone disagrees with this concept, please chime in and set me straight.
I still have to figure out why the voltage to the coil is not getting reduced by the ballast resistor like it's supposed to. My understanding is that the coil should get 12 volts only when the starter is operating, then it should be reduced to 7 or 8 volts by the ballast resistor. This is not happening. I'm getting 12 volts all the time. I understand the the reduction in voltage is designed to keep the points from prematurely burning up. If anyone disagrees with this concept, please chime in and set me straight.
Don't ya just love the internet? I just found the answer to my ballast resistor "perceived" problem. I found it in the Ford Truck Enthusiast forum.
"Be sure to check the coil + voltage with the points closed or with a jumper wire from the coil - to ground. If the points are open you will measure +12 volts with or without a ballast or resistor wire. No current flow means no voltage drop."
When I check the voltage with the jumper in place, I find that the ballast resistor is working as designed. Hooray!
I guess it's been too long since I exercised the electronics theory I learned at Penn Tech.
Now, it's time to attack the water leak.
"Be sure to check the coil + voltage with the points closed or with a jumper wire from the coil - to ground. If the points are open you will measure +12 volts with or without a ballast or resistor wire. No current flow means no voltage drop."
When I check the voltage with the jumper in place, I find that the ballast resistor is working as designed. Hooray!
I guess it's been too long since I exercised the electronics theory I learned at Penn Tech.
Now, it's time to attack the water leak.
Since I'm feeling so good about my recent successes I thought I'd treat y'all to a movie.
4.6MB http://www.tiresmoke.org/walt/running.avi
4.6MB http://www.tiresmoke.org/walt/running.avi
I'm looking forward to getting FlowMasters on it. What you hear are the old turbo mufflers that have been on it for years. Either way she sure sounds sweet.
In case you are wondering about the cam I chose for this motor, its a Comp Cams 265 DEH
DESCRIPTION:
HYDRAULIC: Very strong mid-range. Everyday performance with stock exhaust.
Specs:
http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Searc ... r=34-226-4
In case you are wondering about the cam I chose for this motor, its a Comp Cams 265 DEH
DESCRIPTION:
HYDRAULIC: Very strong mid-range. Everyday performance with stock exhaust.
Specs:
http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Searc ... r=34-226-4
I adjusted the clutch and took her for a ride through the neighborhood this morning. Nice ride. Motor ran good. Responsive and strong...but a lot of cackling pulling in high gear on a grade. It looks like I need to make more timing adjustments and maybe even get off the 87 octane!
What a time to finish building a gas hog with premium requirements!
What a time to finish building a gas hog with premium requirements!