1978 Lincoln Continental Coupe

[Maverick]

Updates:

WXO points out that the leak test CAN be done with his gauges. I was closing the wrong valves. No need for a shutoff on the vacuum pump. I'll draw the vacuum down again and do a leak test.

AND, WXO has a tool to change the larger Schrader valves So, the hi side port will get a new Schrader valve.

By pass regulator arrived today so I think I have everything needed to do the return loop for the fuel system.

[Basement Paul]

Seems like it might be easier to just move somewhere cooler.

-BP

[Maverick]

Seems like it might be easier to just move somewhere cooler.

-BP

Hard to argue with that this time of year.

Drew the vacuum down on the AC and it held nicely. WXO came over and we charged the system on this 90+ degree day. Had the cooler filled with ice and drinks and we got 'er done. Well, almost. My ebay R134a hasn't arrived yet so, between us, we were one 12 oz can short. Put 4 cans in and its working nicely. I'll add one can when the shipment arrives.

However, fast idle in the driveway had the engine temp as high as 210 and fuel was boiling. Transparent filter mostly empty and bubbling like crazy, fuel in the carb sight glasses low, and fuel pressure mostly non-existent. But, now I'm thinking of a different approach. Probably should have done this in the beginning rather that the baby steps toward a solution. I think I'll reinstall the mechanical fuel pump and move the electric pump to the frame rail ahead of the axle and far from the tail pipe. Think the two pumps should play nice together -- mechanical pump will prime the electric and electric will overcome any vapor lock in the mechanical pump. I won't send the bypass regulator back to Summit till Plan G is a known solution but I really don't think it'll be needed. The electric pump should work just fine ahead of the axle with the mechanical pump to prime it.

Starter is still working well. Engine kicks off immediately every time.

[Maverick]

Reinstalled the mechanical fuel pump. Didn't move the electric pump. Took it for a drive and it ran fine. After sitting several minutes fuel was bubbling in the filter again. May have to just let it boil.

While replacing the mechanical fuel pump a crack in the LH motor mount was discovered. There has been a lot of posts on the Lincoln forum about incorrect and inferior motor mounts from the usual suppliers. Making a record here of the Ford part numbers: D7VY 6038-C RH and D7VY 6038-D LH. Hope they can be found at a reasonable price.

[Maverick]

Put 10 gallons of EXXON 93 octane in the Lincoln and it seems to run smoother/easier. Guess I'll have to avoid cheap gas.

Crawled under this morning to have a better look at the cracked LH motor mount. Its torn badly. Found the Ford LH and RH part numbers for $245 each!! Yikes!! So went back looking for aftermarket mounts. CARID, AutoZone and Amazon all list mounts EM 2367 LH and EM 2749 RH. AutoZone has the LH for $10. Bet its crap. Before I found the AutoZone or Amazon listings I ordered from CARID for $25. If there's not some built-in limit for travel of the torque monster if (when?) the el cheapo mount breaks, I'll try to come up with something.

[Fred32v]

In the olden days we used to use a chain and/or turnbuckle to help the motor mount hold the motor.
Upon failure, once you get to the motor mount catch it's too late. Ain't all that torque fun.

[Maverick]

Learned on the Lincoln forum that those mounts don't fit. They are available in lots of places, all wrong. Found the LH (the side that lifts with torque) mount listed for $195 but didn't check availability. I'll have a look at the one that comes and see if there's any reasonable way to adapt it before I shell out that kind of money for a motor mount. Have to try something. Someone should be rebuilding them for THAT price.

I'll also look at some way to limit lift on the left side which ever mount goes in.

[Maverick]

I think I see how to salvage the old motor mount and make it stronger than new for tension, i.e., when that side of the engine tries to lift. BUT, the DS header has to move out of the way for access to one bolt so the mount can come out and be worked on. Getting that header out of the way is NOT fun!! Some other day.

[Maverick]

Got to it. Pulled the engine lift out of the shed (again), got the DS header loose, unbolted the fan shroud, raised the left side of the engine and got the failing engine mount out. That mount could be original -- it wasn't replaced when the engine work was done because it looked so good.

The rubber in the mount is cracked but not completely broken. It will still work well in compression but won't prevent the engine from lifting. Since I didn't want to lay out $195 plus shipping for a new one, assuming they have it in stock, and I'm not sure the stock mounts will hold the increased torque anyway, I decided to reinforce the cracked mount to give it support in tension. A 1/2" layer of rubber and an 1/8" steel plate were added to the engine side of the engine support bracket and secured with two Grade 8 3/8" bolts. Its now MUCH stronger in tension and sheer than the original.

The rubber used is two layers of 1/4" rubber -- old Chevy truck cab mount pad off ebay. The pieces were trimmed to fit on the top side (toward the engine) of the mount.





A cardboard template for the steel plate.



Two 3/8" holes were drilled thru everything and two bolts sandwiched the engine bracket between the original rubber and the added 1/2 on the engine side.



Everything is loosely back in place. Just have to tighten everything up. Maybe tomorrow afternoon.

So glad I didn't spend a fortune for a new mount that might have failed again. This one will definitely hold it.

Even though the mount is now a lot firmer than it was, I think it'll work OK and not transmit a lot of engine vibration to the chassis. The only direct metal-metal path between the engine and chassis are the two 3/8X2.5" bolts. We'll see.

[Basement Paul]

Nice work there. I'm sure that's not going anywhere. You'll feel it more than you did before I'm sure, but in theory you could loosen those bolts up a little and Loctite them to cut back on some of the vibration if it gets too annoying. That motor is probably pretty smooth off idle anyway, and I suspect normal driving will be just fine.

Love the ingenuity.

-BP

[Maverick]

Thanks. Actually, there is no direct metal-metal contact between engine and chassis except maybe some incidental contact between the edges of the 1/8" plate and sides of the engine bracket. Brain slipped a cog again. That was the point of the 1/2" of rubber on the engine side of the bracket.

3/8" bolts were just snugged up with lock nuts. Should be fine.

AC is on in the garage so maybe it'll be back on the road today.

[TireSmoker]

Nice work. I had considered doing something similar when my mount failed last week, but I popped in the solid mount just because I had it. I kept the broken one and may modify it like yours with the bolts if the vibrations get too annoying.

-Dave

[Maverick]

Got it together yesterday and out for a spin. No vibrations. It ran great. It likes EXXON 93 octane.

Now its time to think about 3.25 Traction Loc gears. With the 2.75 rear end it might go thru the 1/8th mile traps in 1st gear.

[Maverick]

Took the Lincoln to lunch Monday with WXO and three others. It had the vapors again when we went to leave after sitting for an hour. Ambient temp in the low 90s, engine temp about 200* with a 180* thermostat. Fuel level at 1/4. I think both pumps had lost prime and it had to crank until the mechanical pump could draw fuel into the electric pump.

I'll try keeping the tank at 3/4 or more in hot weather. That will keep the fuel level above the tank outlet and should let the electric pump keep, or quickly regain, its prime. Don't think it will ever refuse to start -- it's just VERY annoying to have to crank for 30 seconds and have it sputter and stall a few times.

In this humid weather its a good practice anyway to keep the tank full to minimize hydration of the ethanol.

If it balks again, I'll try cranking just enough for the mechanical pump to prime the electric, then let the electric pump replenish the fuel system before cranking again.

[Maverick]

Still thinking about a FINAL solution to "the vapors". A link to an article on installing an in-tank pump in a '66 Mustang was posted in the "References" section http://www.tiresmoke.org/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1841 because the info might also be helpful to anyone doing EFI in an older Ford and needing an in-tank fuel pump. Also posted there is info on fuel gauge sender ohms for various cars since a different sender might be required.

The Mustang install is helpful because, like the '78 Continental, it has the fuel pickup tube and sender wires coming out the front of the tank rather than the top. Connections on the top of the Mustang tank wouldn't be the best since the top of the gas tank is the trunk floor. On the Continental, the top of the tank is pressed up against the trunk floor by the strap hangers so connections out the top would be an issue. Every after market in-tank pump I've seen installs from the top. And, that article is the only example I've seen that doesn't need any tank mods.

The one unresolved issue in the article is a fuel gauge sender. They used the sender wiring in, and thru, the tank to power the fuel pump. (I wonder if the sender wire is big enough to safely carry pump current without overheating.) Left unanswered is what sender to use and how to get the wire out of the tank.

Been searching, without much luck, for guidance on in-tank wiring. I know that gas doesn't conduct electricity so there's no problem with bare connectors. Just have to avoid sparks and overheated wires in the tank. But, since new wiring for the sender, and maybe the pump, is required it begs some questions:

. Is any automotive wire and shrink wrap safe for prolonged submersion in gas w/alcohol? Not too worried about this one -- I think I'll run each wire inside small rubber fuel hose so it wouldn't be a disaster if the insulation deteriorated.

. How can new wires for the sender safely exit the tank? Fuel-resistant sealer/adhesive is available but wouldn't want to depend on a garden variety grommet and sealer. Maybe the small rubber fuel hose sleeves on the wires can fit snuggly in holes in the sender flange and fuel-resistant sealer applied inside and outside the sleeve.

That's the state of the in-tank fuel pump effort. Not sure when I'll start collecting parts.