TireSmoke.org

I wonder if you are seeing the results of that rusty gas tank. Maybe you will be forced to clean out the entire fuel delivery system.
By the way...what's a bypass sensor?

You may be right about the rest of the system, but I am going to hold off on that for now. I (perhaps foolishly) think the injectors are the only other place I would expect to find rust.

I discovered on youtube last night that this misfire problem could be caused by a stuck injector, and you can fix it by tapping on the injector with the engine running:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cUIIn32n ... re=related
I tried this today and have had the car out several times so far with no more codes coming up. Prior to this, the code would come each time I drove without fail.

To answer your question, I just found out you can bypass the secondary O2 sensor with a special sensor that can "fake" like it is an actual O2 sensor:
http://www.afterthoughtsauto.com/o2sim.html
I could see doing this in a performance application. I just coughed up the $ and bought a new sensor.

I was thinking the misfire might be causing the O2 sensor to trigger too...

-BP

You could be right BP. My internet digging on P0141 no one said anything about that, and with 107,000 I just assumed the O2 sensor was worn out. Maybe $70 for nothing then.

Crossed the echeck barrier today. I had heard they might have to put the car on the rollers if the codes had been recently reset. Well on Sat AM I had to reset the codes. When I got to work today it had only been started five times since the reset. So on the way to echeck I shut it off and restarted a couple times at each traffic light. I don't know the exact number but I am pretty sure I was under 25 starts. It still passed.

Ya beat the system.
I love to see that. And on the rollers, it probably would have passed due to the mileage.

I had only a few starts on my truck when I took it in after resetting. It more has to do with the amount of time the computer has had to sense the information it's receiving, or actual running time. Although I only had three starts, I had well over an hour of running time, and apparently that was enough for the computer to be satisfied.

Not having to pay for echeck makes it less annoying too.

-BP

Race weight with 3/4 tank of gas: 3380 (uh I would add another 180 to that)

found a scale at a gravel yard within walking distance of my work. Can't wait to take the Vette there.

Well the rust got me again. Last week I went to move it out of the garage and had no power steering. What I did have was lots of pwer steering fluid on the floor in the garage. Last Saturday I got to fixing it - this car actually has a section of line designed to cool the power steering fluid, and that is where the line rusted. So a couple of compression fittings and a piece of 3/8 tube and the leak is fixed.

Bleeding the thing has been a bear though. I probably have 20-30 minutes into it and there is still air in there. According to the book there is no special process other than to turn the car to the left when you start. I've been working the wheel back and forth slowly to try to get the air to move. It has been working a little.

During this process I noticed metal shavings coming from the belt area accumulating on the plastic under the belt area. I had heard some sounds a couple times - sounded like a water pump to me - but with shavings I need to investigate further. Maybe new alternator, maybe water pump, maybe tensioner.

Out of necessity I need to put this car on the road - so I looked at the problem with the shavings - they are coming from the air conditioner pulley. Looks like the clutch might be shot.

Can't bypass it either. Anyone know if I can replace just the clutch?

So it appears there is an A/C clutch bearing that can be replaced - they have it at Autozone. Need to find out what it takes to take that off - my Haynes manual does not describe how to do any of that, and I have not found a good description on the internet either.

edit: found a link that shows all the detail on the compressor, should be handy: http://lacetti.com.ua/chevy-man/EN/docu ... 02.en.html

autozone had a whole stack of tools to help with removing the clutch bearing, except the one that threads into the outside plate did not have the correct dia. threaded fitting. Searched hi and lo for correct tool on internet but could not locate. In the end gave up on that and put it back together.

There is a little play in the bearing, but methinks that if I am going to keep the car, the best way out is a used compressor. Since A/C is already not working, won't be a big loss to crack open the system.

Washed the car today, took some pics and put it on craigslist for $1750. We'll see what happens.

here is the link:

http://cleveland.craigslist.org/car/585741929.html

OK sold I sold it tonight for $1700. Got $200 of it tonight and the rest to come later this week.

The vette is next on the block?