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Bad news on the trans. I am sure that crack was in there while is was in the car in its past life. Looks like the crack is in the bellhousing - can you get it welded?

I have to look into that.
It's very hard to see from the inside because it it so close to where the pump bolts in.

That Olds 455 (461) looks really good in blue. I like blue and inches.
That tranny had many miles on it, then I had Jim Synder rebuild it.
It only had about 100 miles on it when John and I got to messing
around one morning. The rear U joint snapped on the two/three gear
change. The drive shaft was wiping around good enough to break the
plastic governor gear and dent the mufflers. I drove home in first
because it wouldn't shift without full revs. I needed the car the next day
for Carlisle. Not knowing it was only the plastic gear, I installed a used
350 with the idea of going to a 400 when I returned. Snyder always said
my big Olds was too heavy for a 350 even though he did some things to
help, like a powergide input shaft, etc.
You could check to see if there was Synder's red paint down IN that crack,
it may have always been there. If you dig that primer out of there and
see any red, I'd say that crack was always there and might install it
anyway. Obviously your call.

I didn't see any red paint in it.
I will probably investigate welding it as Andy suggested.
Although I can still install it and get it running like it is.
I don't need it 100% until the car is road worthy and who knows when that will be.

I hope you don't mind but those flaky chrome valve covers will simply get painted grey for now.

I'll keep the post updated.

My wife, daughter and I went to see Ricky Bobby at the cinema. Reese Bobby's #13 1969 Chevelle got me wound up so today I went out in the garage and made a little progress.



I managed to lower the engine and trans into the car. I got bolt on each motor mount to line up and 1 bolt on each side of the trans crossmember to line up. I also need to check the engine mounting dimensions side to side and the angle of the combo front to back. I only need to drill the other half of the holes (1 per mount and 1 per side on the trans member).

Don't pay attention to the rust and dirt, it will eventually get cleaned up a little.





I also test fit the driver side header and it appeared to clear everything (tight but cleared).

1 step closer.

(or could I consider it 3? 1. engine 2. trans 3. headers?)

Since there are 2 headers maybe even 4 steps closer?

I'm a little suprised that all the motor mount holes didn't lineup.
When we moved that motor from an Olds to a Buick, everything
lined up perfectly. Drilling a few holes won't stop you. I'd be
tempted to set the core support on to see how much fan to radiator
clearance you have. We moved WXO's entire setup back 1.5 inches
so the fan would clear. Looking good, keep goin!

Glad to see some progress. Keep going!

I bet if the entire engine mount setup was from the same year Cutlass no drilling would be needed, but drilling will probably be faster than tracking down all those parts.

blue spark plugs?

I figured the GM blue would help the electricity conduct better.
Also help insulate the ceramic portion of the plug from the headers.
Not to mention the aerodynamics of the blue, it adds to the outside area of the plug which detracts from the cavity the plug sits in therefore helping eliminate the turbulents generated by the cavity.
The only down side I see is the added weight of the paint.
Maybe a fiberglass hood will make up for the added weight.

: )

Not to mention the light blue will keep the spark plug temperatures at their maximum level. No need for hotter plugs for you, yours are insulated to the maximum Chuposity levels.

-BP

There is room between the fan and the radiator. Not much, but some. About a hands worth. There is also little room between the distributor and the firewall. I think the engine is going stay about where it is.














I have the engine and trans put so i can drill and install the mounts.

Looks good, does the drive shaft fit or is it a little short?
I would think that it shoud ride in the Turbo 350 right where it
did in the old tranny. If you needed to move things back,
now would be the time. If the drive shaft works, I'd say you have it.

With the addition of my son I am rethinking my strategy on the Chevelle.

I may forego the tubalar A-arms and simply opt for the MUCh cheaper graphite front end rebuild kit, new springs and shocks. I've save about $700 or so. Then I can look at getting it running sooner and back together.

Nothing has happened here for a while, except the Chevelle acting as a catch all. I think I have my brother (Tom) talked into doing the panel replacement, bodywork and paint. So now I just have to figure a way to get it to Ohio.

Just to recap here's my past timeline.
March 2004 saved the car from the crusher.
May 2004 gutted interior, glass and trim.
June 2004 changed job to outside sales so there was a lot more travelling.
January 2006 (found out Yasmina was pregnant)
March 2006 removed front clip, engine and trans.
June 2006 got 455 to GA and cleaned.
July 2006 test fit 455 and trans in car.
September 2006 to April 2007 (Alex was born so he and my wife got all my time)
April 2007 to now (my wife's investment property has taken all my money and time)

When it's all said and done, your family comes first. The project can wait for your attention, your son and wife can't.
That's the great thing about Tiresmoke. There's lots of incentive and encouragement to keep your interest alive during the dry times when you can't focus on your project.

whatever you do, do not get rid of it unless you have another project.

my other advice would be: no more investment properties until it is on the road.

Among all the other cool things about being a parent, my daughter knows the words to all the country songs on the radio and sings them all the time. Not a big country fan but I like listening to her sing them. Little kids are a lot of work but it pays off.