1996 Collector Edition Corvette

[wxo]

I've seen suggestions to that effect on the web, but I haven't looked at it yet.

[Basement Paul]

Is that frame or rack and pinion in the way. On C5s, the rack has to be loosened to get the damper off.

-BP

[wxo]

The frame member is directly over the rack and pinion assembly. After doing more research today, I have a few ideas on things to try. I'll be sure to post when I get it out. I plan to get a new balancer, but the pickin's are slim. Right now I'm looking at a PowerBond PB1362N branded by Dayton from Summit Racing.

[GMJohnny]

WXO,

Is the balancer a fail part on the LT4? I had a bad experience with an aftermarket balancer
on my ‘66 Olds and eventually went back to the stock unit. I’m wondering why you want
to replace it ( assuming it doesn’t get destroyed removing it).

GM

[wxo]

This is my reasoning: Dampening rubber 25 years old and 103k miles, 3 years in a barn on top of 14 years with only 750 miles driven. High revving engine and major difficulty of access. I've also read a few good comments from guys who run this PowerBond balancer.
Here's a writeup from RockAuto: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.ph ... 12&jsn=989

[wxo]

I was able to remove the balancer from it's hub. Unfortunately it is still trapped in place. I can roll it from side to side to work on the Opti-Spark, but I may have more work to do to take it out and slip my new balancer in place. Right now my short term goal is to change to the new opti unit, install the old balancer on the hub and run the engine without a water pump in place to test the opti.
This tool enabled me to pull the balancer: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01 ... UTF8&psc=1. I had one heck of a time making it work, though. First, it would not fit between the balancer and the frame member. Fortunately, each of the 3 grabber arms is pinned to the body of the puller with easily removable pins. I figured out that, to get the hooks into the damper slots, I had to completely disassemble the puller and insert each of the puller grabber arms into place first. Then I was able to drop the body of the puller into place and insert the pins to reassemble the puller. But now when I screwed the pressure screw in with the shortest rod, it was way too long and wouldn't work. I had to make my own short rod from a 5/16 bolt and a half inch drive 3/8 socket with a nut inserted and glued into it.

[wxo]

I just contacted Summit about my new balancer and it is on back-order until at least a month from now. I decided to cancel it and use the one I have. I believe I can repair the minor damage I caused to the pulley during the removal attempts.

[wxo]

Two things are missing in this picture. what are they?

Answer: First is the balancer from hell. You can't see it, but it is in here.

Second is the original Opti-Spark.

Silvia finally released her grip on the trapped balancer when I removed one, and loosened the two remaining bolts that holds the rack and pinion assembly to the frame. What a struggle! But, after an hour or so in the electrolysis bath, I was able to get a better look at the condition of the balancer. It actually looks quite good. I could see no degradation of the rubber. Looking back, I'm really glad I didn't go through with the purchase of a replacement. Furthermore, I understand why I was not able to install the original size serpentine belt. I had to buy one one size longer. It was due to all the buildup of rust in the grooves of the balancer. Now, I suspect I will be able to use the original shorter one.
The Opti-Spark came out with a bit of wiggling. The hub was blocking it. I may have to pull the hub to get a good, straight shot when inserting the new Opti. I'm not crazy about the idea of digging any deeper, but if I have to pull the hub, I guess I should take a peek under the timing cover to see how things look there. I've got so much removed from this engine, I decided I could save some cash by canceling a good portion of the insurance. Silvia is not going to have rubber on the road for a few months. There is a lot to do before then.

[wxo]

I had a lot of trouble today trying to remove the crank hub. It turns out that I had the wrong selection of adapters pushing on the end of the crank. With Maverick's phone support, I was able to remove the hub relatively easily.

So next in line is the timing cover.

In the process of removing the timing cover, I didn't remember that it is captured by the oil pan. So, next in line is the oil pan. It needs a new gasket anyway.

I figure as long as I'm in this deep, I may as well take a look at the timing chain. I need to find out how to check the slack. It, too, may need to be replaced.

[wxo]

I had a lot of trouble today trying to remove the crank hub. It turns out that I had the wrong selection of adapters pushing on the end of the crank. With Maverick's phone support, I was able to remove the hub relatively easily.

So next in line is the timing cover.

In the process of removing the timing cover, I didn't remember that it is captured by the oil pan. So, next in line is the oil pan. It needs a new gasket anyway.

I figure as long as I'm in this deep, I may as well take a look at the timing chain. I need to find out how to check the slack. It, too, may need to be replaced.

[wxo]

Maverick came over yesterday to help me with removing the oil pan and the timing chain. First the oil pan. I had all the bolts out and everything out of the way, but it was caught in the front at the cross member. While Maverick rotated the crank I was underneath wiggling the oil pan and it came loose slick as can be. Once I set it aside, this was staring me in the face.

I believe it is silicon rubber gasket scrapings from some past jackleg work. I pulled this out of the oil pickup screen.

There is more in the bottom of the oil pan. That stuff was in there the whole time I've had this car, including the dyno runs. There is no way I was getting full oil flow to the engine. I'm so glad I took this time and considerable effort to pull the oil pan.

Next we tackled the timing chain. Prior to lining up the timing marks on the crank and cam sprockets, we tried to get the reluctor wheel off to see the dot on the crank sprocket.  It resisted because of a burr on the key holding it and the crank sprocket. We had to do a little bit of urging, but were able to get the reluctor wheel off.  Then when we looked closer to the crank sprocket, there appeared to be a long gouge where the crank sprocket was forced onto the crank snout and gouged a path along the top of the keyway all the way to where it was seated.  The sprocket was stuck on so tightly that we had to use a puller to get it off.  Now it's key is left tightly wedged into it's keyway and Maverick and I tried many things including freezing to get it out. It still won't budge.

I've got to go to the beach for the rest of the week to think about this.

[wxo]

The impacted woodruff key is finally out. It took a couple of hours of work with a small chisel and punch, but it finally released it's grasp on my crankshaft.

[Basement Paul]

That's awesome! I was worried for you.

-BP

[Maverick]

G O O D N E W S!!!!!

[wxo]

So where am I? It began with inspecting the timing chain. It has "5/16 inches of deflection which looks like a lot, so I started looking for an OEM replacement. They are not to be found. So I called tech support at Cloyes who made the original for GM. The tech guy (Don) told me that 3/8" of slack is the point of chain replacement so my original chain is less than that. Don also gave me the numbers for two Cloyes timing sets that "will work". Well, the first and cheapest one appears not to work. One reviewer complained that it doesn't have the cam gear to drive the water pump. The second one looked like it should work so I ordered it from Amazon (https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B004A5IKF8? ... ct_details ). It's an extreme duty race timing set. The timing chain is totally different from the original, but it looks like it should work. HOWEVER...the set comes with a matching water pump drive gear which must be replaced. Hooo Boy! I'm just now looking into this hurdle and wondering if I should take this plunge into the relatively unknown or just punt and use the original timing set and return the new timing set to Amazon. Remember, my objective in all this was simply (?) to replace the Opti-Spark. And...all this before I've even figured out how I'm going to clean up the damaged woodruff key slot in the crank so that the key and the sprocket fits tightly as it should. Feel free to offer advice and council and stay tuned...