I don't know why I was so hesitant to take the F100 on its first loop around the neighborhood. Probably because I'm missing my co-pilot, the NOISE might get be banned or shunned in the neighborhood, and there are several non-standard, aftermarket things that could leave me stranded. Anyway, I did it and everything worked flawlessly. But, it is VERY noisy. And, I think I have some CO poisoning.
Didn't try the steering wheel shift buttons but the automatically shifting works fine. Both the controller and the transmission worked very well. I did pull the shift lever back into "2" once and the downshift was immediate and firm.
The electric fan comes on, ramping up to 50%, at 210* and shuts off at 195*.
It's always great when they actually move under their own power. Are you sure you want to give it up? It looks ready to smoke some tires?
I was curious why you run that motor so hot? 210 deg seems like an insanely hot number for a carbureted motor. And where you live, I would think that cooler would be better in that heat. Maybe a 180 thermostat and the fans kicking on at 190 or so... Just wondering. If the Caddy goes over 185 I start to worry.
wxo wrote:WOW! That hotrod is lookin' good! Your puttering has really paid off.
Thanks!!
Looks like I won't get over to Henry's before you get back. Lets talk after you get back and catch your breath. Maybe you can join me for that trip. Some video would be fun. Looks like I won't get there this week unless I go tomorrow.
We'll smoke some TIRE (just one ) before the engine comes out. The one tire track we laid down with the Maverick, before the Traction Loc, was there for months.
I'm not sure what temp will be best for that engine. The 210 on/195 off is the factory setting for the fan controller -- haven't messed with it yet.
I'm guessing the '95 engine clearances are designed for about that temp. The Air Gap intake has no exhaust heat and gets minimal heat from the lifter valley. The 347 in the Maverick ran better at about that temp. I did get one hesitation (14* BTDC initial timing) when cranking the hot engine so might need to run it cooler or buy higher octane gas with the current timing.
Didn't mention before that the power booster added to the stock drum brakes seems to work OK at low speeds. I was half expecting to get some wheel lock up from leaking wheel cyls or rusty drums but brakes seem ok.
WXO and I took the F100 to our favorite muffler shop for an exhaust system today. He got some video of the L O U D truck on the way and some at the shop but he had to leave before it was done so "after" video will have to wait. We had some good coffee, conversation, and a sweet at Duncan Donuts while the pipes went on.
Edit: DAMN, that truck has character.
Had dual 2.5" pipes with Thrush Turbo mufflers and pipes exiting in front of the rear wheels. I like the sound a lot. Had those mufflers on the Maverick but with 12" glass packs as resonators. Didn't get the truck up to Interstate speeds yet but at 45-50 MPH there's no offensive noise in the cab. Just sweet music from the 351W.
Had a problem with ATF leaking around the new o-ring in the filler tube. Looking around on the Internet, that is a common problem which is solved by RTV. Some was applied Monday evening and fluid topped of on Tuesday. No leaks today.
The transmission and controller worked fine except for upshifts into 4th (OD), which were sometimes kinda tentative like it didn't know if it really wanted to upshift or not. I'm thinking the controller table may be calling for 3-4 upshift too soon. Engine was lugging when went into 4th. Think I need to update the table and try again.
Tried the steering wheel button shifting and it worked great. "Cruise Off" button (think Microsoft Windows ) toggles between manual and auto modes, "Accel" button causes upshift; "Coast" button causes downshift. Fun!!
Speedometer is working with the previously unused drive gear in the output shaft and a 20-tooth driven gear, although reading about 10% too high. 21-tooth is the largest count available so I expect the speedometer will still read about 5% high with that gear. The drive gear can be changed but it requires disassembly of the 4R70W transmission so that's not going to get done.
The SunPro fuel gauge arrived today. While the Amazon listing for the gauge said nothing about a need for a SunPro sender, the instructions for the gauge say one is needed. The SunPro sender requires a hole cut in the tank to mount it. No way. I called their tech support and got the resistance specs for the gauge: Full 33 ohms, 1/2 130 ohms, Empty 240 ohms.
Some interesting numbers from fordification.com:
Ohms/Resistance
(Empty/Full)
Popular Models
0-90 Ohms most GM cars, 1965-up
73-10 Ohms pre-1989 Fords & most Chryslers
240-33.5 Ohms Industry standard, works on many popular cars
0-30 Ohms most pre-1965 GM cars
16-158 Ohms most '89-up Fords
I'll have to see what the Mustang sending unit in the Mustang, behind-the-axle tank reads. Seems like I should be able to get close to a lower range by putting a shunt resistor from the sending unit connection at the gauge to ground. Think I can calculate the value for the resistor after I review some DC Circuits stuff. Anyone remember the formula for the combined resistance of two parallel resistors? Is it the product of the reciprocals? Its been over 50 years since I've done that calculation.
After the exhaust system quieted things down I now hear something that sounds like a bad alternator bearing but it doesn't seem to be coming from any of the accessories. When I locate my stethoscope, maybe I can locate the noise. It didn't get louder when I pulled the oil fill cap so that was encouraging. Also could pull the serpentine belt and see if the noise is still there. Hope NOT or I'm in some trouble!!! Some guys are experiencing failures of roller rocker arms.
The drive in the F100 took care of any second thoughts I might have had about loss of "character" as I switch projects to the '81 F150. MAN, that truck steers HARD!! I'm too old for that much character.
The power drum brakes do work well at least as hard as I've used them. Haven't tried a panic stop.
I'm going to get a pistol and concealed permit to take on the AZ trip to get the '85 F150. Tomorrow I can pick up a permit to purchase and WXO, another friend and I will visit a firing range so I can try out a number of guns and get lined up for the required class for a concealed permit.
I read about a neat SOUNDING trick to check valve operation without making a mess. Cut the tops out of some spare valve covers and it is supposed to prevent oil from spilling over on the headers, etc while running the engine to check valves. So, a couple of years ago on a puttering day I cut the tops out of some 5.0 valve covers, cleaned them up and painted them for the day when I'd need to do that. The day came this week when the open headers no longer drowned out a suspicious noise -- maybe from the valve train.
So, this morning I pulled the cut-off covers out of the shed, dusted them off, clearance them for the roller rockers, put them on, started the engine and backed the F100 out of the garage. Half way out I stopped because smoke was pouring out from under the hood. Oil had been thrown out all over the headers, frame, inner fenders, ... CRAP!! The neat sounding trick doesn't work with THESE rocker arms.
The trail as I backed out. Rocker arms are getting PLENTY of oil.
Rocker arms seem to be adjusted correctly -- no free play but push rods rotate with some resistance when valves are closed -- but I still think the valve train is noisier by normal.
Thought I might have found the problem when I noticed the sheet metal baffles in the rocker arm covers were not tight. The self tapping screws that mount the baffles needed another turn. The loose baffles might have been making some of the noise but not all.
Maybe I'll pull the covers back off and check the roller rockers and ends of the valve stems for anything unusual. Not today.
Here is a thread from the SBF forum by a guy that had problems with his roller rockers. http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,35481.0.html This has on my mind since I heard the unusual noise. When I saw the loose baffles I thought that was going to be the problem so I didn't pull the rockers and check them and the valve stems out. Guess I should pull the covers again and see what's up. Maybe tomorrow.
I pulled the covers off again and removed a rocker arm. The valve stem has a witness mark on the end that is very well centered, top to bottom, indicating the push rods are the correct length. The mark shows the rocker is a little off center, left to right, but don't think that's a big deal. The guide plates can be positioned a small amount, left to right, and I was careful to bolt them down so the rocker roller was centered on the valve stem. However, the witness mark on the push rod shows that its only making contact with the guide plate on one side and, its not rotating. I know with flat tappets the lifter and pushrod should rotate but, since roller tappets don't rotate I'm not sure if the push rod needs to rotate or not.
I'm thinking that the noise I'm hearing might be the push rods rubbing on the guide plates. Maybe a zinc additive would quiet them?
Was surprised that the mark on the valve stem shows the valve isn't rotating either. Aren't they supposed to?
The rocker shaft assembly on my Caddy has made noise since I installed them a long time ago. For my application, it's a normal noise. They just clatter, no way to make it go away. But mine has a single shaft that all the rocker arms are mounted too, and a big billet plate that they all hook too. I think it just transfers noise more than a stock setup...
Didn't get any answers from sfbtech.com. I think someone would have spoken up if any of the things being asked about were big problems. Since the roller tappets don't rotate, I guess the push rods wouldn't either. So, the covers went back on and I'll drive it and see if the noise changes.
Put the new fuel gauge in and it reads 7/8 when I think the tank is about 3/8 full.
The new gauge wants to see 240 ohms empty, 130 ohms at half full, and 33 ohms full.
The Ford sender should provide 73 ohms empty, 41.5 ohms at half tank (assuming the sender's variable resistance is linear), and 10 ohms full.
For the tank to be accurate at empty, a (240-73) 167 ohm resistor should be added in series to the sender circuit. An (130-41.5) 88.5 ohm should make it accurate at 1/2. A (33-10) 23 ohm should make it accurate when full.
The prospects don't look good for a useful fuel gauge. I currently have a stick in the bed that can be inserted into the filler cap under the bed.
I'm not comfortable with the valve noise in the 351W. I'm thinking it might be intake valves making contact with the heads. The noise is louder when the engine is hot which seems consistent with harder impact when valve stems are expanded/lengthened with the heat. And, I think I can hear the noise coming up from the carb.
When the piston-to-valve clearance was checked with putty, the intake valve clearances were tight. But the exhaust valves, which get hotter and expand more, on the Maverick 347 were tight and I got away with that. Maybe not this time. If the valves are hitting, maybe I'll get lucky and the valves won't be bent.
This morning I was thinking I'd have to pull the heads off to check for marks on the pistons and then I remembered seeing listings for cameras with a head that inserts in small places. Northern Tool offers several. Most are fairly expensive but this one http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/ ... _200512626 is not so bad because it uses a laptop display rather than an integrated screen.
Its lighted and the 7/16" head will fit in the spark plug hole. I hope it can be maneuvered inside the cylinders to get a good look at the pistons. Anyway, it will be delivered next week and I'll see what I can see.
If the pistons are marked, it will be obvious where reliefs have to be cut.
If the pistons aren't marked, I'll probably make some extensions on the cut out valve covers to contain the oil and readjust the lifters with the engine running and hot.
I ordered this fuel gauge http://www.amazon.com/Auto-Meter-1416-D ... B000C2DVOS but NOT from amazon. Autozone sells it for $49, 1/3 the price at amazon. I'm surprised at the price difference since Amazon stuff is usually priced pretty good. $49 is still 3X the price of the SunPro guage but it has the correct ohm range for the early Ford senders.
It matches the other (SunPro) gauges well except for the chrome bezel. SunPro bezels are black. I'll paint over the chrome.
Gauge shipped today so I expect it'll arrive in the next few days.
The mini camera is to arrive today so maybe I'll get a look at the pistons this weekend. Had another thought about the noise. It doesn't seem likely, but could it be detonation? It is worse when the engine is hot. The timing is 14* at idle and it appears to be running lean since there's NO soot in the tailpipes. I'll try to see the pistons in any case. If no marks on the pistons I'll try retarding the timing a little just to test for that long shot.
Well, the "colonoscopy" scope couldn't show the part of the pistons where the intake valves might make contact with the pistons.
The tip fits inside the spark plug hole OK but the plug hole is angled toward the exhaust valve sides of the pistons and the camera end won't bend to show the other sides. No marks from the exhaust valves but didn't expect any there.
Images and videos from the scope can be saved on the laptop displaying the images. I saved an image of the piston but didn't select a file type and now I can't display (or post) the image. Tried to rename the image file with .jpg and .bmp but can't open it with either file type.
The camera has a little mirror to show right angle views but the mirror doesn't fit inside the spark plug hole.
The scope is a nice tool to have but not that useful in this case.
Posted the concern about the valve noise up on the small block Ford (sbf.com) web site and got a response that sometimes the Scorpion rocker arms ARE noisy. Looked around on the web and confirmed it. Sometimes the noise was caused (esp on LS engines) by the rockers hitting the valve covers. Found a suspicious mark on the left cover. Look just to the right of the line on the cover.
I'll pull the rocker at that position off and check for a mark on it.
Added some aluminum flashing to the bottom side of a valve cover with the top cut off. That contained the oil splashing in that direction. Not a lot was splashing out on the top side of the head so a couple of rags can catch those drops.
If a mark on the rocker arm confirms a rub I don't think I'll bother re-adjusting the lash with the engine running and hot. I will run thru the adjusting sequence again, now that the engine has been run some, making doubly sure each lifter is on the lobe base circle. That's how its supposed to be done and working around that flashing with the moving rockers will be a pain. I'll hold the hot, running adjustment in reserve in case it seems necessary.
Disassembly of the F100 has begun. The radiator, elect fan, trans cross member, drive shaft and left side exhaust have been removed.
Trans drained and engine wiring removed. Only had to cut three wires.
It took a couple of starts to get at the engine, trans, and trans controller wiring. Wasn't eager to cut apart the nice, taped up, loomed harnesses.
The left side exhaust came out in one piece. Two bolts at the collector and two tail pipe mounts. Expect the right side will do the same. The pickup bed makes a convenient place to store removed parts.
These pickups are A LOT easier to work on than the Maverick.
Your puttering has really paid off.
Oil had been thrown out all over the headers, frame, inner fenders, ... CRAP!! The neat sounding trick doesn't work with THESE rocker arms.
If the valves are hitting, maybe I'll get lucky and the valves won't be bent.
