1972 Maverick Sprint

[Maverick]

Received the replacement timing cover. Man, was it DIRTY!!! No kidding, there was so much dirt built on on that cover that a 3/8" pipe plug was hidden in the dirt. Spent several hours getting it cleaned up but it's looking good now.

Had to look a little to find a 3 mm bit for the ring grove cleaner. Again, the ring groves were packed with HARD burnt carbon. Wonder if this engine ever had the oil changed?

Got the rotating assembly, cam, lifters, double roller timing chain and sprockets installed in/on the block. Got the heads ported and valves lapped and assembled.

Picked up some Silly Putty (enough for the whole neighborhood) at CVS to check the valve/piston clearances. Put the old, compressed head gasket in place, some Silly Putty on top of the piston, sungged the head down, and rotated the crank a couple of times, CAREFULLY. Here's what happened.

Good news: no collisions. So-so news: I don't quite have the recommended clearanace for the intake valve. Best advice is to have minimum .100" clearance for exhaust valve and .080 for the intake. I miced the putty impressions at .101 exhaust and .065 intake.

Some guys on the Mav Forum say they run this combination of heads and pistons and have no problems. One of the most knowledgable says its 50:50. Some with be OK; some won't. They were really after me to relieve the pistons. I decided to bet that there won't be a clearance issue, or if there is, I'll hear the valves ringing before there's any damage. They wished me "luck".

So, I'm not following some of the expert advice I'm getting. Maverick Forum guys wanted me to bore the cylinders and cut reliefs into the pistons. Tiresmokers want me to buy a stroker kit. Time will tell how it works out.

Don't think I mentioned the issue with balance when mating an '88 motor with a '72 transmission. All Windsor rotating assembliess are externally balanced by the flex plate and harmonic balancer. Early ones have a 28 oz imbalance; later ones a 50 oz imbalance. '72 C4 transmission has a smaller bell housing than the '88 Mustang. Takes a smaller flex plate. Ford never made the smaller flex plate with 50 oz imbalance but after market plates are available. Ordered one off eBay for $45 plus shipping. Should arrive any day. My Mustang motor came with a 50 oz balancer but the rubber was severly cracked. I have a replacement -- standard Ford part.

Today I'll pick up some new freeze plugs for the heads and some new sealing compounds. Then I'll be ready, with my "How to Rebuild Your Small Block Ford" book, to finish the assembly. Gotta get this done so I can get back at the body and paint work now that the weather is cooling off. Hard to paint in the HUMID NC summers.

[ttamrettus]

I think I see a smiley face in that silly putty. Is that good or bad?

[Maverick]

I think I see a smiley face in that silly putty. Is that good or bad?

I see it too!! Think he needs a name.

[ttamrettus]

Is he smiling because he's gonna make tons of HP ?

[wxo]

He seems to have a sinister smirk on his face. How about calling him "Holeshot"?

[Maverick]

I think he's smiling because the valve clearance IS going to be OK.

[ttamrettus]

There seems to be some sort of horsepower / smirk relationship. I think it's exponential or something.

[Maverick]

The "Hole Shot" gremlin is all covered up and sleeping. The '86/'88 302 HO is almost ready to go in. I still have to make one good Holley out of three (thanks, GMJohnny) used 4160s. Never rebuilt a Holley before, but I have the "How To" book.

While the engine itself is almost ready, I have some big jobs to complete before it can go in. WXO keeps reminding me I need to get the engine compartment pretty BEFORE the engine goes in. I know, I know!! Also have to go thru the auto trans -- its leaking like mad. Never did one of those before either but, again, I have a book. Haynes book on Ford autos was recommended by an expert.

The alum valve covers were contributed by a friend. They had been sitting in a field for a few years and were pretty rough. Initial thought was to polish them but I like Plan B better. Certainly a lot less work!!

Headers are polished ceramic Doug Thorleys. Really splurged there!!

Got the Edelbrock Performer intake from a guy on the Maverick Forum.

The blue engine with alum highlights should look good in the blue/white Sprint.

[Maverick]

I was going to attempt to rebuild of the C4 AT myself but decided to spring for a rebuilt performance transmission. Its the first one listed on here http://www.broaderperformance.com/C4%20 ... 0parts.htm

This guy comes highly recommended by the great transmission guru on the Maverick Forum. (Maverich transmission guru is classed as a "Member Extrordinaire" and he deserves it.) The rebuild will take a couple of weeks. Should be all the transmission I'll ever need. Not getting a new torque converter -- old one has just 58K pampered miles on int. History will judge the wisdon of THAT decision.

I just wasn't confident I'd get the rebuild done right and I'm not making the progress I expected. This purchase will eliminate one big task.

Of the three Holley 600 carbs I have to work with, I choose 1 of 2 4160s (both with the same list number!!). It was quite clean inside. Haven't found much wrong with it. Bought a Holley brand rebuild kit from Amazon.com. Have the carb about half way reassembled but hit a snag. Holley kit was missing 2 little cork donuts that seal vacuum ports for the choke and secondaries diaphram. Did an online complaint to Holley tech services yesterday. Haven't heard back yet. I can probably buy them locally if Holley doesn't respond quickly.

Have the engine compartment primed, the hood primed with two coats on the bottom and one (so far) on the top. Got the top and one quarter panel sanded. More sanding tomorrow. Gotta get the paint done before the weather turns.

I'm using Eastwood 1:1 Grey Epoxy primer and NASON color coats. Bought the urethane colors yesterday. Found a paint store in Durham that sells to everyone at a discount, $135/gallon. I'm hoping the colors (Wimbledon White and Grabber Blue) are closer to originals than we got with the Beetle. I liked the NASON Beetle colors better than than the originals so that wasn't a problem there. But I would like to have the true Sprint colors. We'll see.

As I complete these steps I'll post pictures.

[Fred32v]

I like the transmission select. It should do what you need done in spades.
BUT, I think the stock converter will stall short of the torque curve on your cammed small block providing a flat launch.
A street/strip 2500 or 2800 stall converter would provide the bottom end a lot better than a 1200 1800 stock deal.
This would be the time to install it, rather than after the car is running. I'm really good at spending your money.

Looking forward to your pictures.

[Maverick]

If the cam wasn't stock I would put a higher stall converter. But, with stock cam, open rear, and street tires don't you think I'll get one-wheel TireSmoke, not bog? Phase 2, if I ever get there, would be a good time to fix those issues.

[markss327]

I'd suggest an aftermarket converter too. I'd also suggest anything to tie the axle together, posi unit, locker, anything.
You've got enough motor to 'excite' two tires, easily.

I'm sorry, a muscle car, with an open axle, just aint right. Do 'Phase2' now!

[GMJohnny]

Maverick, I'm in agreement with Fred32v on this one. I can tell you several stories of where a torque converter was the difference between night and day. What I would recommend, is seeing if your c4 was put in a stock application with a higher stall converter in it. In other words, buy a converter that is not a hole shot or expensive brand. When I put a converter in my Buick wagon, the expensive converters were all $400.00 an up. I put a stock converter from an S-10 pickup truck I bought from Advance Auto for $100.00 in the car and it woke it up. Since you are not hammering on the car in an all out race scenario, the converter should last forever. Perhaps the tranny shop can offer you one like this. Just a suggestion, from a guy who wishes his converter stalled at 2500. GM

[Maverick]

If the cam wasn't stock I would put a higher stall converter. But, with stock cam, open rear, and street tires don't you think I'll get one-wheel TireSmoke, not bog? Phase 2, if I ever get there, would be a good time to fix those issues.

I respect all the experience you guys have and appreciate the suggestions. But, I can't do the limited slip rear now. That'll be another $700 if I just replace the center section. Would like to drive it before I do the rear end to see if I REALLY need disk brakes. In that case, I'd replace the whole rear axle.

I've been working on the car for a year now and still have LOTS to do. Like paint, entire interior, and exhaust. I'm getting eager to drive it for a while. Do you really think the engine will bog with the current planned setup? I'm thinking the right rear will break loose in the 2900 pound Mav on street tires, stock cam, etc.

[markss327]

Mav-

Also with respect to you not having driven the car for over a year... IMO, I feel the limited slip is more important than rear discs... but that's just me.
(Assuming you already have front discs)

OK... I'll shut-up now.