My 275-60's were about the same height as my 235-75's. A 255-60 is a lot shorter.
-BP
1978 Lincoln Continental Coupe
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Basement Paul
- Posts: 3414
- Joined: Sun Jul 17, 2005 9:27 pm
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Re: 1978 Lincoln Continental Coupe
Right. I looked some more yesterday and think 255/70 15 Coopers (Cooper tires on it now) would work well on the back. 10" wide and 29" tall. Now I need to find some 15X7 painted steel wheels with 5X5 lugs, the right back space, and that will accept the full hub caps.
Looked at the spare yesterday to be sure about lug pattern and wheel width. I think its the original tire that's never been on the ground. Wheel looks new too. Too bad the original wheels are only 6" wide. I've seen some plain repro steel wheels in various widths somewhere but haven't found them again. Anyone know a source? The 5X5 pattern is common on F100/F150s so someone should be selling them.
Looked at the spare yesterday to be sure about lug pattern and wheel width. I think its the original tire that's never been on the ground. Wheel looks new too. Too bad the original wheels are only 6" wide. I've seen some plain repro steel wheels in various widths somewhere but haven't found them again. Anyone know a source? The 5X5 pattern is common on F100/F150s so someone should be selling them.
Maverick
Donor 3rd Member
WXO and I are going tomorrow to get the 9" 3rd member out of the '79 Town Car that I got the ash tray, radio and clock from. There are a couple of things to consider when swapping 9" 3rd members.
Axle Spline Count can be 28 or 31. 31 spline axles are stronger so more desirable. Turns out the original in my car is 31. How do I know? http://www.metropartsmarket.com/rearend/measure.html My axles have the 3 holes of the 31s.
If the donor has the three holes in its axles, its all good and simple. If it has the rectangular depression, its probably 28 but could be 31. Only way to know is to pull the axle.
If the donor has 28 count splines, we'll also get the donor axles and HOPE that the axle bearings and lengths are the same as the '78. The '78s and '79s both have 5X5 lug patterns so that's not an issue. I don't want to think about what happens if the axles are 28 spline and don't fit in the '78 housing.
EDIT: Forgot to mention the flange on the pinion shaft. The '78 has double u-joints on each end of the HEAVY drive shaft. The drive shaft bolts to a flat flange on the pinion shaft rather than mating a u-joint to a yoke. I hope and expect that the '79 has the same flange. If not, its a deal breaker. One reason for buying and rebuilding the core 3rd member is to get that flange. None of the 3rd members I see advertised have that flat flange and neither have I seen it for sale anywhere. The plan is to keep the original 2.50:1 open 3rd member as is and swap it back in for any LONG road trips. The plan requires that second flange.
Axle Spline Count can be 28 or 31. 31 spline axles are stronger so more desirable. Turns out the original in my car is 31. How do I know? http://www.metropartsmarket.com/rearend/measure.html My axles have the 3 holes of the 31s.
If the donor has the three holes in its axles, its all good and simple. If it has the rectangular depression, its probably 28 but could be 31. Only way to know is to pull the axle.
If the donor has 28 count splines, we'll also get the donor axles and HOPE that the axle bearings and lengths are the same as the '78. The '78s and '79s both have 5X5 lug patterns so that's not an issue. I don't want to think about what happens if the axles are 28 spline and don't fit in the '78 housing.
EDIT: Forgot to mention the flange on the pinion shaft. The '78 has double u-joints on each end of the HEAVY drive shaft. The drive shaft bolts to a flat flange on the pinion shaft rather than mating a u-joint to a yoke. I hope and expect that the '79 has the same flange. If not, its a deal breaker. One reason for buying and rebuilding the core 3rd member is to get that flange. None of the 3rd members I see advertised have that flat flange and neither have I seen it for sale anywhere. The plan is to keep the original 2.50:1 open 3rd member as is and swap it back in for any LONG road trips. The plan requires that second flange.
Maverick
Re: 1978 Lincoln Continental Coupe
From previous post:
WXO and I had our trip to get the 3rd member out of the '79 Town Car. It was a beautiful sunny day with temp around 60 degrees. The '79 TC is an a guy's back yard with a dozen or so other vehicles he's parting out. Fortunately he has a wrecker to lift the car and wheels lying around to throw under the frame. Got it up in the air nicely and we didn't have any big issues getting what we wanted.
One axle does have the three holes, same as my Coupe, supposedly indicating 31-spline.
My '78 axle:
'79 TC axle with the same holes:
Other '79 TC axle with FIVE holes:
It all looked good till WXO counted the splines on the donor axle -- 28!! Not what its supposed to be. So, are my '78 axles also 28-spline rather than the indicated 31?? Won't know till the axles are out and splines are counted.
If both rear ends have 28-spline axles I'll go ahead with the plan to change gears and add Traction Loc to the donor 3rd member, swap it in and keep the original, as is, in storage. If my car has 31-spline axles I'm not sure what the plan will be. We did bring the 28-spline axles out of the donor just in case they're needed.
We also brought home the four '79 turbine wheels, complete with center caps, all in pretty good condition. They're dirty but could be nice with enough work. I really don't need them but, rather than have him scrap them, I offered him $100 and he took it. I guess they're worth $15 or $20 for scrap. Or, maybe we can sell them for a profit at Carlisle??
HA!!! Not likely!!If the donor has the three holes in its axles, its all good and simple.
WXO and I had our trip to get the 3rd member out of the '79 Town Car. It was a beautiful sunny day with temp around 60 degrees. The '79 TC is an a guy's back yard with a dozen or so other vehicles he's parting out. Fortunately he has a wrecker to lift the car and wheels lying around to throw under the frame. Got it up in the air nicely and we didn't have any big issues getting what we wanted.
One axle does have the three holes, same as my Coupe, supposedly indicating 31-spline.
My '78 axle:
'79 TC axle with the same holes:
Other '79 TC axle with FIVE holes:
It all looked good till WXO counted the splines on the donor axle -- 28!! Not what its supposed to be. So, are my '78 axles also 28-spline rather than the indicated 31?? Won't know till the axles are out and splines are counted.
If both rear ends have 28-spline axles I'll go ahead with the plan to change gears and add Traction Loc to the donor 3rd member, swap it in and keep the original, as is, in storage. If my car has 31-spline axles I'm not sure what the plan will be. We did bring the 28-spline axles out of the donor just in case they're needed.
We also brought home the four '79 turbine wheels, complete with center caps, all in pretty good condition. They're dirty but could be nice with enough work. I really don't need them but, rather than have him scrap them, I offered him $100 and he took it. I guess they're worth $15 or $20 for scrap. Or, maybe we can sell them for a profit at Carlisle??
Maverick
Re: 1978 Lincoln Continental Coupe
Bought a re-curved distributor from Scotty at ReinCarnation High Performance, http://www.r-h-p.biz/. WHAT A DIFFERENCE!! In 1978 they hadn't figured out how to get performance and low emissions and the advance curve was NOT for performance.
With the recurved distributor, recommended initial timing is 14-16* BTDC.
Mechanical advance curve:
500 RPM 0*
1000 2*
1500 7*
2000 12*
2500 16*
2950 20* (all in)
Initial+mechanical: 34-36*
Vacuum advance: 14* at 17" Hg
At 3000 RPM, the timing light showed initial+mechanical+vacuum (didn't measure vacuum): approx. 50*
That total (with vacuum) seems really high to me so I called Scotty to confirm that's OK. He says its fine. Guess it won't be that high at cruise with some load on the engine.
The exhaust is quieter too. It just runs smoother and has more power at low RPMs. Big difference!
I'll stick the original distributor in the trunk along with some other parts for emergencies.
With the recurved distributor, recommended initial timing is 14-16* BTDC.
Mechanical advance curve:
500 RPM 0*
1000 2*
1500 7*
2000 12*
2500 16*
2950 20* (all in)
Initial+mechanical: 34-36*
Vacuum advance: 14* at 17" Hg
At 3000 RPM, the timing light showed initial+mechanical+vacuum (didn't measure vacuum): approx. 50*
That total (with vacuum) seems really high to me so I called Scotty to confirm that's OK. He says its fine. Guess it won't be that high at cruise with some load on the engine.
The exhaust is quieter too. It just runs smoother and has more power at low RPMs. Big difference!
I'll stick the original distributor in the trunk along with some other parts for emergencies.
Maverick
Re: 1978 Lincoln Continental Coupe
WXO and I took the Continental out for a spin and made a little tire smoke. 
Didn't want to push it too hard because, along with a wheel balance issue, there was some other vibration. Was thinking maybe a tread separating but now I think its the left header hitting the adjusting stud on the steering column. Need to figure out some way to get some clearance. May have to jack the engine up to get access.
Removed the wheels, checked the date of manufacture for the tires (2010), and took them to Duty Tire to get balanced. While the wheels are off, one rear axle was pulled to check the spline count. Good news and bad news. Good news is the axles are 28-spline, the same as the spline count in the donor center section we picked. So, I can go ahead with the plan to get 3.25 gears and Traction Loc installed in the '79 center section, swap it in, and keep the original 2.50:1 center section to swap back in for any LONG road trips.
Bad news, although its not that bad, is the axles are 28-spline rather than the stronger 31-splines. Doubt the 28-spline axles will fail in this application.
Also pulled the fender skirts off to enable a test fit of some wider wheels and tires. Son Barry has some 255/75 15s on wider F150 rims with the same 5X5 bolt pattern. I want to see how they fit and check back spacing.
It was a good idea to pull the fender skirts. It looks like the nuts that hold them on have never been off. More rust there than any other place on the car. Had to work the nuts back and forth several times with Kroil penetrating oil to get them off in one piece. The nuts will soak for a few days in Rust Evaporator.
Didn't want to push it too hard because, along with a wheel balance issue, there was some other vibration. Was thinking maybe a tread separating but now I think its the left header hitting the adjusting stud on the steering column. Need to figure out some way to get some clearance. May have to jack the engine up to get access.Removed the wheels, checked the date of manufacture for the tires (2010), and took them to Duty Tire to get balanced. While the wheels are off, one rear axle was pulled to check the spline count. Good news and bad news. Good news is the axles are 28-spline, the same as the spline count in the donor center section we picked. So, I can go ahead with the plan to get 3.25 gears and Traction Loc installed in the '79 center section, swap it in, and keep the original 2.50:1 center section to swap back in for any LONG road trips.
Bad news, although its not that bad, is the axles are 28-spline rather than the stronger 31-splines. Doubt the 28-spline axles will fail in this application.
Also pulled the fender skirts off to enable a test fit of some wider wheels and tires. Son Barry has some 255/75 15s on wider F150 rims with the same 5X5 bolt pattern. I want to see how they fit and check back spacing.
It was a good idea to pull the fender skirts. It looks like the nuts that hold them on have never been off. More rust there than any other place on the car. Had to work the nuts back and forth several times with Kroil penetrating oil to get them off in one piece. The nuts will soak for a few days in Rust Evaporator.
Maverick
Re: 1978 Lincoln Continental Coupe
Fender skirts are still off and nuts still in Rust Evaporator. Would like to have a warm day to put some Eastwood Rust Encapsulator on the quarters behind the fender skirts and on the fender skirts.
Tried to finish the 521 break in by running it up to 5000 RPM under load in 2nd gear on I-85. Couldn't do it. With the 2.5:1 rear end, 4000 RPM in 2nd gear was 85 MPH and there was too much traffic to push it to 100+. Guess it will be declared broken in with just 4000 RPM. Haven't checked the oil since that run but up until now its showed no consumption.
When the end-of-year finances settle down the 3.25 Traction Loc will get done and 5K RPM in 2nd gear should be doable.
It feels quite strong even with the 2.5:1 rear end. Got to feel the vacuum secondaries kicking in in 1st gear.
Tried to finish the 521 break in by running it up to 5000 RPM under load in 2nd gear on I-85. Couldn't do it. With the 2.5:1 rear end, 4000 RPM in 2nd gear was 85 MPH and there was too much traffic to push it to 100+. Guess it will be declared broken in with just 4000 RPM. Haven't checked the oil since that run but up until now its showed no consumption.
When the end-of-year finances settle down the 3.25 Traction Loc will get done and 5K RPM in 2nd gear should be doable.
It feels quite strong even with the 2.5:1 rear end. Got to feel the vacuum secondaries kicking in in 1st gear.
Maverick
Re: 1978 Lincoln Continental Coupe
Its been 5-15 degrees below average here most days for the last 2-3 weeks. Too cold to spend much time in the garage.
Did get the garage almost up to 60 degrees one day. Wire brushed the wheel wells under the fender skirts and applied Eastwood Rust Encapsulator on the surface rust. Chased the threads on the studs and nuts that mount the fender skirts, applied some grease on the threads and reinstalled the skirts. They'll come off easily when its time to test fit some tires and wheels.
Discovered that the left header was hitting the adjustment stud on the steering box.
Its a real challenge to get that header in and out. The left side of the engine has to come up 5- 6" which really stresses things. Didn't manage to get it all the way out but did get it positioned where I could work on it to get some clearance.
However, not enough -- only about 1/8". Some spacers will be placed between the motor mount and block to raise the engine a little and get sufficient clearance.
The exhaust is a little loud for around town. Think Henry's should install some 12" glass packs for resonators. That's what the Maverick got with good results. So now there are three expenditures stacked up for early 2015: performance front discs and pads, resonators, and the 3.25 Traction Loc rear end.
Even though the brakes are all new, there is a chatter that I believe is from the fronts. Not a pulse like with warped rotors but a more rapid vibration. I think the brakes are stopping as well as they ever did, but I'd like some more effective brakes. Want to keep the 15" original hub caps so I gotta stick with 15" wheels and, therefore, 11" rotors. Looked for a kit with dual piston calipers, slotted rotors and performance pads but none to be found for a '78 Continental. (GM guys have it made!) Have these rotors and pads on order:
http://www.buybrakes.com/p-1063-stoptec ... .aspx#tab3
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brand.js ... 13205024:s
My fingers are crossed that the chatter isn't caused by the Hydro Boost power brakes. Never had Hydro Boost before and don't know anything about it.
Hope to do the resonators next month and maybe the rear end in March.
Did get the garage almost up to 60 degrees one day. Wire brushed the wheel wells under the fender skirts and applied Eastwood Rust Encapsulator on the surface rust. Chased the threads on the studs and nuts that mount the fender skirts, applied some grease on the threads and reinstalled the skirts. They'll come off easily when its time to test fit some tires and wheels.
Discovered that the left header was hitting the adjustment stud on the steering box.
Its a real challenge to get that header in and out. The left side of the engine has to come up 5- 6" which really stresses things. Didn't manage to get it all the way out but did get it positioned where I could work on it to get some clearance.However, not enough -- only about 1/8". Some spacers will be placed between the motor mount and block to raise the engine a little and get sufficient clearance.
The exhaust is a little loud for around town. Think Henry's should install some 12" glass packs for resonators. That's what the Maverick got with good results. So now there are three expenditures stacked up for early 2015: performance front discs and pads, resonators, and the 3.25 Traction Loc rear end.
Even though the brakes are all new, there is a chatter that I believe is from the fronts. Not a pulse like with warped rotors but a more rapid vibration. I think the brakes are stopping as well as they ever did, but I'd like some more effective brakes. Want to keep the 15" original hub caps so I gotta stick with 15" wheels and, therefore, 11" rotors. Looked for a kit with dual piston calipers, slotted rotors and performance pads but none to be found for a '78 Continental. (GM guys have it made!) Have these rotors and pads on order:
http://www.buybrakes.com/p-1063-stoptec ... .aspx#tab3
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brand.js ... 13205024:s
My fingers are crossed that the chatter isn't caused by the Hydro Boost power brakes. Never had Hydro Boost before and don't know anything about it.
Hope to do the resonators next month and maybe the rear end in March.
Maverick
Re: 1978 Lincoln Continental Coupe
DANG!!!! Screwed up!! While raising the engine to get the headers loose, the wood block on the floor jack somehow shifted so the weight was on an edge in the middle of the sump. The pan is dented so its probably touching the pickup up screen. The pan will have to come off and be straightened. If I'm lucky (not feeling that right now) the screen and oil pump aren't damaged.
Getting the pan off by just raising the engine is going to be a challenge. The pick up tube is pressed into the oil pump so I'll no doubt have to reach up and undo the oil pump (not just the pick up tube and screen) to get the pan out. Just not in the mood to go at it right now.
The performance front pads and slotted rotors are here. Just need to get some new wheel bearing seals and maybe new bearings before the brakes can be replaced. The rotors and hubs are all one piece on the Continental.
Longer 7/16" Grade 8 bolts and flat washers arrived. A few washers will go in between the motor mounts and the block to raise the engine about 1/4" to get more clearance between the header and steering box adjusting stud. When the mood to work on it returns ...
Guess the break in oil will get replaced somewhat before the planned 500 miles.
Getting the pan off by just raising the engine is going to be a challenge. The pick up tube is pressed into the oil pump so I'll no doubt have to reach up and undo the oil pump (not just the pick up tube and screen) to get the pan out. Just not in the mood to go at it right now.
The performance front pads and slotted rotors are here. Just need to get some new wheel bearing seals and maybe new bearings before the brakes can be replaced. The rotors and hubs are all one piece on the Continental.
Longer 7/16" Grade 8 bolts and flat washers arrived. A few washers will go in between the motor mounts and the block to raise the engine about 1/4" to get more clearance between the header and steering box adjusting stud. When the mood to work on it returns ...
Guess the break in oil will get replaced somewhat before the planned 500 miles.
Maverick
Re: 1978 Lincoln Continental Coupe
Finally got out in the garage today and got the pan off.
Did not have to remove the oil pump. Loosened the fan shroud, undid the motor mounts and trans cross member, removed the right valve cover to avoid contact with the heater/AC box and undid the ends of the sway bar so it could be rotated out of the way. The headers were already loose on both ends. Raised the engine till the trans hit the tunnel. With the pan loose, the crank was turned till the rear crank balance was out of the way, and the pan came out.
My imagination was running wild. I was wondering if the pickup tube had been bent or maybe even the oil pump boss had broken off the block. No such BAD luck! No damage other than the dented pan.
Put the pan on some corrugated paper sitting on the garage floor and knocked the dent out with a 2X2, edges and corners rounded off, and a big hammer.
Measured the clearance between the pickup and the pan bottom and its about 1/4"- 3/8" more than spec. It'll stay that way unless someone convinces me that's a problem. That extra clearance might have avoided damage to the pickup or pump.
A one-piece rubber gasket will replace the cork and rubber ends. The sealer used with the cork will be a PITA to get cleaned off.
Did not have to remove the oil pump. Loosened the fan shroud, undid the motor mounts and trans cross member, removed the right valve cover to avoid contact with the heater/AC box and undid the ends of the sway bar so it could be rotated out of the way. The headers were already loose on both ends. Raised the engine till the trans hit the tunnel. With the pan loose, the crank was turned till the rear crank balance was out of the way, and the pan came out.
My imagination was running wild. I was wondering if the pickup tube had been bent or maybe even the oil pump boss had broken off the block. No such BAD luck! No damage other than the dented pan.
Put the pan on some corrugated paper sitting on the garage floor and knocked the dent out with a 2X2, edges and corners rounded off, and a big hammer.
Measured the clearance between the pickup and the pan bottom and its about 1/4"- 3/8" more than spec. It'll stay that way unless someone convinces me that's a problem. That extra clearance might have avoided damage to the pickup or pump.
A one-piece rubber gasket will replace the cork and rubber ends. The sealer used with the cork will be a PITA to get cleaned off.
Maverick
Re: 1978 Lincoln Continental Coupe
After a conversation with Carl, CarsByCarl.com, I decided to replace the oil pump while the pan is off. Going with a Melling high volume pump and Valvoline VR-1 20W50 oil to see if that gives better pressure on hot idle. There is only about 200 miles on the Lucas 30W break in oil. Got the pump ordered from Summit.
Oil pan is good as new ready to go back in.
Scraping the block is no fun with the engine in the car, lying under it with the debris falling in your face. A one-piece rubber gasket is going in this time rather than the cork and sealer.
Since that effort is held up till the pump gets here, on to the front brakes. Put the new inner bearing seal in the new rotors. Doesn't go on the spindle!! The bearing fits the new race that came in the rotor but the bearing ID is too small. Checked the Summit listing and, I DIDN'T order the wrong part -- according to their listing. Checked RockAuto and they list a different number. DANG!! Looks like Summit has ANOTHER error in their online catalog. Just got them to send more rear axle flange gaskets because the catalog erroneously said they came in pairs but there was only one to a package.
So, do I wait another few days to get the right bearings from Summit or just use the old bearings that seem fine. Or, pick some up locally and return Summit's for refund? I'll figure it out later. Things always seem clearer after happy hour.
Oil pan is good as new ready to go back in.
Scraping the block is no fun with the engine in the car, lying under it with the debris falling in your face.
A one-piece rubber gasket is going in this time rather than the cork and sealer. Since that effort is held up till the pump gets here, on to the front brakes. Put the new inner bearing seal in the new rotors. Doesn't go on the spindle!! The bearing fits the new race that came in the rotor but the bearing ID is too small. Checked the Summit listing and, I DIDN'T order the wrong part -- according to their listing. Checked RockAuto and they list a different number. DANG!! Looks like Summit has ANOTHER error in their online catalog. Just got them to send more rear axle flange gaskets because the catalog erroneously said they came in pairs but there was only one to a package.
So, do I wait another few days to get the right bearings from Summit or just use the old bearings that seem fine. Or, pick some up locally and return Summit's for refund? I'll figure it out later. Things always seem clearer after happy hour.
Maverick
Re: 1978 Lincoln Continental Coupe
Nice day here today. The 220 heater got the garage up to 60 degrees. I really need to put a ceiling in the garage.
Picked up the two inner wheel bearings from NAPA this morning. The local store had them in stock. Some posts on the web complain about new wheel bearing failures. I trust the NAPA brand bearings are OK.
Slotted rotors and performance pads are installed. I don't like the Ford disc brakes with the key and spring that hold the calipers in place. PITA to change pads!! Same design as the Maverick. But, got 'er done.
I told Summit about the (another!) error in their on line catalog. Their customer support is great, always ready to make things right. One bearing had already been packed with grease so they'll give a credit with no return. The other will go back for a refund.
The high volume oil pump and VR-1 are to arrive tomorrow. Temps are dropping again so don't know when the pump and pan will get installed. Should be before Spring.
Picked up the two inner wheel bearings from NAPA this morning. The local store had them in stock. Some posts on the web complain about new wheel bearing failures. I trust the NAPA brand bearings are OK.
Slotted rotors and performance pads are installed. I don't like the Ford disc brakes with the key and spring that hold the calipers in place. PITA to change pads!! Same design as the Maverick. But, got 'er done.
I told Summit about the (another!) error in their on line catalog. Their customer support is great, always ready to make things right. One bearing had already been packed with grease so they'll give a credit with no return. The other will go back for a refund.
The high volume oil pump and VR-1 are to arrive tomorrow. Temps are dropping again so don't know when the pump and pan will get installed. Should be before Spring.
Maverick
Re: 1978 Lincoln Continental Coupe
After MUCHO difficulty, the oil pump and pan are installed. Removing and installing the oil pan with the engine installed and the car on jack stands and the cross member a few inches from your nose is a PITA!!
Used a one-piece rubber gasket and I can only hope that the rear semi-circle that is SUPPOSED to go in the groove in the rear main cap is where it belongs. The rear of the pan is tight to the spacer plate and its impossible to see what's happening back there as the pan goes into place. Tried gluing the gasket to the block but, with the cold temp in the garage, it wasn't sticking. Glued it to the pan and HOPE it stayed in place. Probably should have used more sealer/adhesive and some heat to get the gasket to stick to the block. Sure hope there's not a next time but, if there is, I'll try that.
It doesn't look like anything will be happening this week. Too dang cold!! Tomorrow will be 25 degrees below average and we're looking at the coldest week in a LONG time. Looking forward to a few days in Florida in March and a few days in Hilton Head in April. I haven't seen the data but this has to be one of the coldest Winters on record. Gotta feel for Bostonians.
Used a one-piece rubber gasket and I can only hope that the rear semi-circle that is SUPPOSED to go in the groove in the rear main cap is where it belongs. The rear of the pan is tight to the spacer plate and its impossible to see what's happening back there as the pan goes into place. Tried gluing the gasket to the block but, with the cold temp in the garage, it wasn't sticking. Glued it to the pan and HOPE it stayed in place. Probably should have used more sealer/adhesive and some heat to get the gasket to stick to the block. Sure hope there's not a next time but, if there is, I'll try that.
It doesn't look like anything will be happening this week. Too dang cold!! Tomorrow will be 25 degrees below average and we're looking at the coldest week in a LONG time. Looking forward to a few days in Florida in March and a few days in Hilton Head in April. I haven't seen the data but this has to be one of the coldest Winters on record. Gotta feel for Bostonians.
Maverick
Re: 1978 Lincoln Continental Coupe
Haven't done anything since the last post, other than pick up a rebuilt master cylinder from CARQUEST and get a reverse bleeder kit from ebay. When we brought the Lincoln home, the brake pedal was near the floor. Bled the brakes, got air out of the rear system, and all was well. But, the pedal is low and spongy again. Some claim that a bad wheel cylinder or master cylinder can allow air into the system. Not sure how that could happen but air is getting in somehow.
One guys says you can determine which cylinder is failing by the location of the air in the system. If air comes out immediately you found the offending wheel cylinder. If air comes out only after lots of fluid, its a bad master cylinder. Was going to try that but just decided to replace the master. It may or may not have been replaced by the previous owner. Can't tell because its painted. Could have been replaced or could be original. So, when the master is replaced, for sure there won't be any old warn components. Rebuilt master is cheap and, according to the shop manual, easy to replace.
Also purchased the "Best and most complete deluxe reverse metal brake bleeder kit on the internet"
.http://www.ebay.com/itm/201289612007 Worth a try for $26 shipped. I like the idea of continuously pushing the air bubbles up hill to the master cyl. Hope it works. Its still a two-person job if continuous flow is maintained and overflow of the master is avoided.
Looks like we have at least another week of below average temps. I hope to get back at the Lincoln soon.
One guys says you can determine which cylinder is failing by the location of the air in the system. If air comes out immediately you found the offending wheel cylinder. If air comes out only after lots of fluid, its a bad master cylinder. Was going to try that but just decided to replace the master. It may or may not have been replaced by the previous owner. Can't tell because its painted. Could have been replaced or could be original. So, when the master is replaced, for sure there won't be any old warn components. Rebuilt master is cheap and, according to the shop manual, easy to replace.
Also purchased the "Best and most complete deluxe reverse metal brake bleeder kit on the internet"
.http://www.ebay.com/itm/201289612007 Worth a try for $26 shipped. I like the idea of continuously pushing the air bubbles up hill to the master cyl. Hope it works. Its still a two-person job if continuous flow is maintained and overflow of the master is avoided.Looks like we have at least another week of below average temps. I hope to get back at the Lincoln soon.
Maverick