'70 F100

[TireSmoker]

Sometimes you step in crap and come out smelling like a rose. The transmission controller I intend to buy is already prepared to connect the single wire that normally goes to the Ford cruise control module and can distinguish the various button pushes by the different voltages on that one wire. It's ready to use the Ford cruise buttons to do manual shifts. That problem is SOLVED!!

That's awesome! Cant ask for much better than that.

-Dave

[Maverick]

I'm finding the tilt column a HUGH challenge. There are good parts explosion diagrams around but they don't tell you how to take them apart and reassemble them. Bought the ALLDATADIY info but its not sufficient either. Finding it very difficult to get the column apart and not at all sure I can get it back together. If I could find someone local that had experience with the tilt columns I'd gladly pay them to do the column merge. Makes me wonder if the old brain is up to this task.

[Maverick]

If anyone ever asks me what my biggest blunder in three restorations was, I'm ready with an answer. It would have to be this steering column transplant. Its been wrong assumptions, incomplete and incorrect disassembly instructions, broken parts, incomplete item from ebay, mission creep, yada, yada, yada, ...

It started with an assumtion that later steering columns would physically mount in the '70 F100. Might be true to an extend but not true for the columns I found and bought. I expected wiring and rag joint issues but the columns I bought are bigger diameter and quite different physical mounts.

Then there was mission creep. Started out wanting cruise control steering wheel and column for the transmission upshift/downshift buttons. The columns I found were tilt so that would make a nice add. Didn't know how much it added to the complexity of the disassembly/assembly. As it became apparent that the physical mounts were quite different, then how 'bout transplanting the under-dash bracket that mounts the column and brake pedal. That would give me a wide brake pedal appropriate for the auto trans and (someday) power brakes.

So, Monday WXO and I went up to our favorite junk yard and pulled, yet another, tilt steering wheel, power brake pedal, and the under dash bracket that mounts them and the master cyl. Trouble is, all that stuff is configured differently in the '83, or so, donor truck. To mount that stuff in the '70 F100, it looked like a part of the '83 firewall should be transplanted or at least used as a template for reconfiguring the '70 firewall. NO WAY!!

Good news is the column we got is in good condition and does not have to be disassembled.

So, the new plan is to mount this good column, adapt the dougle-D end of the steering shaft to the F100 rag joint somehow, and wire up the '83 turn signal switch (now on column), flasher switch, horn and (now) shift buttons.

The '83 column has the ignition switch on the column (with steering wheel lock). The '70 has the ignition sw in the dash and I think I'll leave it there. The ford steering column ignition key actuates a rod that goes half way town the column to the electrical switch. That electrical switch on the column won't fit with the '70 column mount bracket. So, think I'll have a locking column and separate (original) ignition switch on the dash. That ought to confuse any would-be thief for a while. And, that's less wiring to redo.

Here's the wheel, just a little lower than it will end up.



This is the upper mount. The rod that actuates the ignition sw can be seen on top of the column. Think I'll drill holes in the column mount bracket and use one or two 2.75" muffler clamps to tie the column to the mount.



This is the lower mount. This style of mounting bracket is on the inside of the firewall in the later trucks. Using the '70 bracket on the outside avoids some problems.



The end of the later steering shafts are a Double D. They have a u-joint for a shaft that goes forward to the steering box mounted on the front cross member. So, the double-D shaft has to get a rag joint flange attached somehow. Welding is out because I don't want to disassemble the column and there's a plastic bearing retainer for the lower bearing that would get destroyed. Hoping I'm not the first one to need the adaption and there exists an apapter rag joint flange that will attach (without welding) to the double-D. There are a couple of companies that specialize in home made steering couplers. I'll contact them and see what they have to say. Sorry for the lousy focus.



Here's the gap that needs to be filled.

[wxo]

I know we've touched on this idea, but now that I see the relationship between the column and the steering box, I'm wondering again about removing the rag joint and adapting the the coupler from the new column to the steering box. I'm thinking of cutting off the rag joint coupler from the steering box and welding the newer coupler to the stub. I think you said there was a reason not to do this, but I can't remember your answer. I believe it's relatively easy to remove the steering box and work on it on the bench. If you mess things up, these steering boxes are easy to come by.

[Maverick]

I know we've touched on this idea, but now that I see the relationship between the column and the steering box, I'm wondering again about removing the rag joint and adapting the the coupler from the new column to the steering box. I'm thinking of cutting off the rag joint coupler from the steering box and welding the newer coupler to the stub. I think you said there was a reason not to do this, but I can't remember your answer. I believe it's relatively easy to remove the steering box and work on it on the bench. If you mess things up, these steering boxes are easy to come by.

I really don't want to weld on either shaft because of seals and plastic bearing retainers.

Shouldn't have to cut the rag joint coupler off from the steering box (assuming its not TOO rusted) -- its on a spline. My task for today is to get the flange off the box spline.

Gotta measure the diameter and count the ridges on the spline. A guy on FTE put me on to Speedway's large variety of steering connectors. I expect to be able to get an appropriate u-joint or rag joint from them. They're kind of pricy but if they have the right one, its and easy fix.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/search-st ... plers.html

[Maverick]

The flange came off the steering box with no problems. 3/4"- 36 spline. Found this u-joint http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Sweet-Mfg ... 32668.html with right dimensions.

Only question I had was there was no apparent way to tighten the coupling onto the shafts. Called Speedway and the tech said there are set screws with lock nuts on each end of the u-joint that don't show in the online listing. Should have it by Friday.

[Maverick]

Temp was in the low 20s this morning so won't be in the garage till this afternoon if at all. Too bad, 'cause the transmission cross member mod is about ready to weld. Just needs a little cleanup with a file. The steering u-joint didn't arrive -- its in Greensboro today with expected delivery on Monday. Once that shows up everything is here to mount the steering column. I'm not good at waiting ...

[Maverick]

Got the transmission support welded up today.

Here's the criginal crossmember that goes between the frame ralis. (Was pretty rusty before it got the "rust bucket" treatment.) It sat on top of the bottom part of the C channel. That position is too high for the 4R70W transmission so it will now go upside down under the rails. New holes are for access to nuts on the bottom of the transmission mount.



A 12" piece of 2" square tubing will sit down in the crossmember channel and the transmission will mount on top of that. The hole is to provide access to the nuts from below and clearance for some structure in the center of the crossmember.



Here is the crossmember with the square tube in place and the transmission mount sitting on top as it will in the truck.



The radius at the top of the crossmember channel made a big gap between the tube and the crossmember where it was to be welded. 1/4" steel rods were laid down to bridge the gaps. The rods were welded to the crossmember on one side and to the tube on the other. It was like having a big welding rod in place adding to the puddle.

[Maverick]

The idea to transplant the F350 under-dash bracket that mounts the pedals, steering column and master cyl didn't pan out. It would have been nice because it would have brought the wide, auto trans brake pedal and also would have accomodated the power brake booster (more on that later) from the F350. The dash config was so different I would have either transplanted that portion of the firewall or used it as a template to relocate everything. Had to give up on transplanting all that stuff.

I thought the '83 column WXO & I pulled from the F350 was all good to go but found the plastic turn signal cam was broken. They're not fun to replace because the wires go thru the column and the big connector on the bottom will not pull thru. Some guys cut the wires and reconnect with butt connectors but the right way to do it is to remove the wires from the connector and pull the wires up thru the column to remove the old switch. Then, push the wires from the new switch down thru the column and re-install the the connector. Since it was easy to get the column out (again) the job wasn't so bad. Fortunately, one of the other columns had the correct switch because repros cost $100 when you can find them. Got the bad switch replaced with the good one.

The Speedway u-joint arrived and does adapt the column shaft to the box shaft. The 1" double D collar on the U-joint wouldn't slip onto the steering column end till a couple thousands were filed off the column shaft. Set screws and lock nuts were there as promised by the Speedway tech. Perfect fit on the steering box spline.



The crossmember is in with the engine and transmission sitting in place. Just gotta remember to tighten the engine mounts.



Mentioned earlier the intent to transplant Crown Vic front suspension, steering and K member. When (if?) that happens the truck will have power brakes and need a booster. These trucks came with power front drum (or disk) brakes. The master cyl that's in the truck now has to be replaced anyway so it would be nice to install power booster and master cyl now. Checked Bullock's Slavage but the one truck the same as mine doesn't have power brakes. Haven't checked LKQ yet. There were a LOT of different brake boosters, master cyls, brake pedal and brake rod combinations that went into these trucks.

Cardone lists a '70 power brake booster/master cyl but no one has them available. And, the pictured shaft will not fit on the '70 manual brake pedal. I'd like to find a used '73-'79 truck booster/master cyl for test fit, adaptation, and to use them for cores. Need to get around to the slavage yards and see what's available.

Now that the engine and transmission are in place, its time to measure for a drive shaft. Might ask WXO to come by and hold one end of the tape to insure an accurate measurement but he has a lot going on right now.

Once the brake parts are in place it will be time to put the front sheet metal back on.

[Maverick]

Sometimes its fun to take a break from the puzzles and do something really simple, like making an inspection cover for the bell housing.



Found a '78 F150 at LKQ with power brakes. Got the master cyl, booster, brake rod, pedal and pedal support. The '78 pedal support doesn't fit the '70 dash but it looks like the '78 wide, auto, PB pedal will go into the '70 pedal support with some minor mods. The big booster fits the firewall and doesn't interfer with the tall valve covers. Lookin' good!! Will have to replace the master cyl but the '78 booster appears OK.

Edit: Decided to take advantage of an Advance Auto deal this week and ordered a rebuilt combo booster and master cyl for $88 + $35 core deposit. Had to buy a master cyl anyway and I can get almost what I paid for the JY booster/master cyl when they are turned in as cores (at the store, I hope). Deal is spend $100 online this week and get 15% off plus $50 coupon to be applied against the next $100 purchase. Parts were shipped today. Too good to pass up.

[Maverick]

Got the driveshaft measured by C-clamping the end of the tape measure to the rear yoke. (WXO was disappointed he didn't get to help.) Took the F100 driveshaft and front piece of the F150 driveshaft to a shop yesterday and picked the shortened shaft up today.

They took this piece out of the F100 shaft.



and installed a U-joint to attach the F150 yoke.



Charged $120 labor to shorten the shaft and install two new U-joints. Its not aluminum (I'm jealous, BP) but the price was right. Drive shaft is in place and fits well.

The rebuilt booster/master cyl and the 7/16X5.5 bolt needed for the pedal transplant should arrive tomorrow. Then the pedal support, pedal, and steering column can be installed (HOPEFULLY, for the last time) and the booster/master cyl too. New brake lines to the master cyl will have to be made to accomodate its new location and fittings on the opposite side of the master cyl. Back to WALT'S TOOL SUPPLY to borrow a double flaring tool. That guy has a well-stocked tool room!

[TireSmoker]

$120 is a good deal. I think I paid close to $200 for the same service up here.

-Dave

[Maverick]

The old master cylinder is the nastiest I've ever seen!! Expect a lot of the downstream parts will have to be replaced too. The brake fluid must have taken up a lot of water as it sat for years.



Got the power brakes installed with a nice, firm pedal.





The F350 PB pedal was installed in the F100 pedal support. Geometry looked right and the pedal sits at a good height.

My accomplishment for today was to get the brakes bled. Following the instructions for bench bleeding the master cyl didn't work. It was pushing hardly any fluid when I tried to bleed the whole system. Got the air out of the master cyl by removing the lines from the MC and letting it gravity bleed. Hooked the lines back up, opened the bleeders one at a time and used the pedal to push some fluid thru. Then gravity bled each wheel till fluid was clear and got a firm pedal. At least, its firm with no vacuum on the booster. But, I think its good to go.

Needed new brake lines from the MC to the distribution block because of the relocated MC, the lines attach on the opposite side of the MC, the F100 distrubution block is on the inside of the frame rail while the F350 was on the outside, and the tube nuts are different sizes on the distribution block.

Pre-bent lines for an '83 F350 (power setup donor) came from The Right Stuff ($15 each). They should have been a good start at the MC end but one took off in a strange direction. Had to redirect it and unwind part of a coil to get more length. Afraid its not very pretty. I hope it won't be too noticeable when the fender apron is in place.

WXO, the double flares on the distribution block end were PERFECT on the first try. That's because I took them to a pro at a hydraulic shop. He charged me $5 labor to install the correct tube nuts and do the double flares.

So now the steering column, pedal support and brake pedal are all installed, hopefully for the last time.

I'll probably get an aftermarket, modern AC system from Classic Auto Air, the same company that supplied the OE AC components for the Maverick. Sent them a query this evening asking them to suggest locations for the MDS ignition box and transmission controller where they won't interfer with their AC system. There's a LOT of wiring to do to clean up some things, accomodate the cruise steering column with flasher switch on the column and install the MSD ignition and trans controller. One thought is to put both those boxes behind the glove box door. Access to the MSD box is required to set the rev limiter. The trans controller has a display for lots of things and access is also required to twiddle the (electronic) knobs.

Not sure what's next. Could reassemble the front sheet metal, or do some wiring or maybe take another pass at cleaning the interior. Whatever.

[Fred32v]

Great progress. Being able to stop and steer are things you will want your truck to do.
Just enjoy your accomplishments, I am.

[Maverick]

Great progress. Being able to stop and steer are things you will want your truck to do.Just enjoy your accomplishments, I am.

Check!!!

We had a nice day here today. Swept out the garage, hosed out the truck interior, cleaned up the storage shed, moved the engine lift and engine stand to the shed, and blew leaves. Missed the Datona 500 but got some things done that needed doing. Still have a lot of cleaning and organizing to do in the garage to make it tolerable.