1972 Maverick Sprint

[MostMint]

Why not try it with the current tires and then the new ones? That way you'll know what you are getting for your $

[Maverick]

Got the front end rebuilt and disk brake swap done. Finished greasing the stubborn and hard to reach zerks. There wasn't enough room around the zerk on the right side upper ball joint/upper control arm to get the grease gun on it. A little persuasion with a hammer and punch on the control arm and, no problemo. Couple other minor issues overcome too.

The car steers and stops just fine. Have an appointment tomorrow AM with a guy that is supposed to be good with alignments on old cars. Hope it steers and stops as well after the alingment as it does now. Even got the steering wheel centered.

Checked the rotor temp after a couple of short test runs and I think they weren't too hot. Could touch them without getting burned. Pulled one wheel off and checked to make sure the caliper was getting forced against the outside surface of the rotor and all seems well. I'll still keep an eye on it 'cause it just seems like it could overheat. A knowledgable guy on the Maverick forum assures me when its assembled I should not be able to move the caliper by hand.

Tomorrow PM I'll get the car preped for an all-Ford show on Saturday in Wake Forest, about 20 miles NE of me. Hope to meet some local Ford enthusiasts. Trying to get wifey to go too but no commitment yet.

[Maverick]

Just got back from getting the '72 Mav 302 w/PS aligned after rebuilding the steering and front suspension.

Caster: LF 2.22*, RF 2.78* (Add'l .5* in RF to compensate for road crown.)

Camber: LF .38*, RF .34*

Toe: LF 1/16", RF 1/16", Total: 1/8"

Before the steering and front suspension rebuild, the car would wander and it took constant corrections to keep it in the lane. After rebuild and alignment, it follows the road with small, infrequent corrections. Its like a different car. Much nicer to drive.

Difference, the tech explained, is in the caster. Factory specs are for -0.5* to provide easy steering but with sacrifice of stability at speed. Ease of steering isn't an issue in '70s Ford power steering. They do lots better with some positive caster.

[Maverick]

Did make it to the all Ford show in Wake Forest, NC. Won "Best in Class". Guess I'll have to mention I was the only one there in my "class", whatever it is. Guy giving out the awards prefaced handing me mine with "We have a very unusual class here ...". Expect I'll hear a lot of that. Wife came to the show at noon and we walked to a nice restaurant and had lunch.

A guy at the show has just about talked me out of fuel injection. He has it on a SBF and is about to change to carb. The '87-'93 SBFs require a replacement chip to change the "strategy" whenever significant changes are made like headers or heads. Then, if it doesn't come out right, of course another replacement chip is required. Dyno runs are often required to determine the strategy. He's going to carb because its some much cheaper and simpler to read the plugs and change some jets and springs. "FI is great if its all stock." Opinions?

Installed some replacement, used rear springs. They came off one of the two Mavs in the salvage yard mentioned earlier. But, of course, I'll have to replace them AGAIN. Seems like everything has to be done at least twice. Although they had about 2" more arch than the originals, they sit at exactly the same ride height, too low. The leaves in the replacement springs are slightly thinner and the 2nd and 3rd leaves are a little shorter than the originals. Didn't know there were different Maverick rear springs till I saw them side-by-side. Short wheel base E150s have 6-leaf springs that match the dimensions of the Mavericks. Think I'll pick some up and eliminate 3-4 leaves.

Something in the rear suspension is still hitting when going over bumps. Good news is its NOT the custom exhaust. The guy had to remake both tail pipes to fix meetings between the axle and tail pipes. Glad he got it right this time and I don't have to take it back again. Also found, and thought I fixed, where the U-bolts that hold the traction bars up met the rear subframe. Gonna have to have another look.

I know the aftermarket rear sway bar hits the differential housing on severe bumps. Fixing that means a do over on the sway bar mounts. Guess that's to be expected since I've only done them once. While I'm doing that one over I want to make some stronger mounts for the links on the subframes. I've seen pictures where those mounts tore thru the subframe. Need to have reinforcing pieces welded to the subframe.

And the beat goes on ...

[TireSmoker]

A guy at the show has just about talked me out of fuel injection. He has it on a SBF and is about to change to carb. The '87-'93 SBFs require a replacement chip to change the "strategy" whenever significant changes are made like headers or heads. Then, if it doesn't come out right, of course another replacement chip is required. Dyno runs are often required to determine the strategy. He's going to carb because its some much cheaper and simpler to read the plugs and change some jets and springs. "FI is great if its all stock." Opinions?

Yes, I'll throw my .02 cents in here -- The problem he seems to be describing stems from the fact he's using a stock computer, and an older one at that. Tuning those older boxes is a lot more work, because they really weren't designed to be adjustable.

All the newer stuff, both OEM and aftermarket are tunable, usually in real time, from a laptop with a cable connection to the EFI computer. No physical chips to swap or burn, newer (faster) CPU with a couple generations newer firmware in the EFI computer. In the GM world, the LS1 computer has been pretty well documented and software to tune it is readily available, and most tuning shops probably have the know-how to tune it for you. I don't really follow any of the the modern Ford EFI stuff, so I'm not sure what they have, although I would guess they are equally capable as the GM stuff.

The newer Holley computers (HP & Avenger) are even completely self-tuning in real time with a Wide Band O2-sensor. (WB 02 is a must with EFI) My Megasuirt is easy to tune via recording a datalog as you drive on the road, and then use that datalog as an input-file into a piece of tuning software. You can get it pretty good with just a few iterations of that process. Some of the WOT tuning on any system might be safer to do on a dyno, just from a road-safety point of view, but they can be done without.

And that's the difference, the fact that these newer ones are designed with adjust-ability that makes them easier to tune. And once its tuned, you really shouldn't have to bring the laptop out again. You should suggest to your friend that he consider a newer computer to run it since he already has all the supporting EFI hardware installed.

Installed some replacement, used rear springs. They came off one of the two Mavs in the salvage yard mentioned earlier. But, of course, I'll have to replace them AGAIN. Seems like everything has to be done at least twice. Although they had about 2" more arch than the originals, they sit at exactly the same ride height, too low. The leaves in the replacement springs are slightly thinner and the 2nd and 3rd leaves are a little shorter than the originals. Didn't know there were different Maverick rear springs till I saw them side-by-side. Short wheel base E150s have 6-leaf springs that match the dimensions of the Mavericks. Think I'll pick some up and eliminate 3-4 leaves.

Something in the rear suspension is still hitting when going over bumps. Good news is its NOT the custom exhaust. The guy had to remake both tail pipes to fix meetings between the axle and tail pipes. Glad he got it right this time and I don't have to take it back again. Also found, and thought I fixed, where the U-bolts that hold the traction bars up met the rear subframe. Gonna have to have another look.

I know the aftermarket rear sway bar hits the differential housing on severe bumps. Fixing that means a do over on the sway bar mounts. Guess that's to be expected since I've only done them once. While I'm doing that one over I want to make some stronger mounts for the links on the subframes. I've seen pictures where those mounts tore thru the subframe. Need to have reinforcing pieces welded to the subframe.

And the beat goes on ...

Don't feel too bad, as you're not the only one who frequently has to do stuff twice. Sometimes, when I'm really lucky, I get to do it three times!

[Maverick]

The problem he seems to be describing stems from the fact he's using a stock computer, and an older one at that. Tuning those older boxes is a lot more work, because they really weren't designed to be adjustable.

Yes, we were talking about the '87-'93 Mustang 5.0 computers. That's what everyone on the Maverick forum was suggesting for the 302/5.0 sfb. Aftermarket isn't within my budget. I'll have to look into the '94-'95 Mustang 5.0 or a later Explorer computer. If the later Mod motor would fit in the Maverick I'd be thinking about that.

[oldvettedad]

Jim, for what its worth, if you have the money there are MANY aftermarket FI setups available. And as Tiresmoker said they are all programmable and literally, infinitely, adjustable. You can go simple, or add sensors and have the computer become a complete ECM. But, carbs are fun, although no longer cheap.
Speaking of being the only car in your class, it's all in how you describe it. Its like the race between the Russian race car and an American race car. The American car ran away with the race. But it was reported this way in the Russian papers: "The Russian car finished a respectable second, while the American car finished next to last"

[Maverick]

I thought about an aftermarket FI but they are too expensive for me.

Pulled out my copy of "Ford Windsor Small Block Preformance" book and looked at that today. It has a chapter on putting Mustang 5.0 EFI in a 289 Mustang and another on building a 347 stroker. Lots to think about.

[oldvettedad]

Is it just me, or do our projects never end? I am seriously thinking of putting a crate 383 motor and 5 or 6 speed in the Vette for next year. Lots of HP and low compression. Over the years my views have changed, I like resto mod more than originals. And i can "bag" the original 327/350 and still have it. Or maybe I won't

[Maverick]

Nope, its not just you. I started thinking about "Phase 2" MONTHS before I ever drove the car. Had to cut off Phase 1 "project creep" or I'd NEVER drive it. Some of those post Phase 1 improvements have been achieved, e.g., elect radiator fan, Traction Loc, traction bars, front disks, and front suspension/steering rebuild. Currently working on rear spring replacement but Phase 2 engine and auto overdrive are bubbling up. Trouble is those last two are more expensive, esp the engine, and not much increase in value of the car. Gives me pause. Gotta get some lottery tickets.

[oldvettedad]

Some of the advice I have received over the years makes so much sense. One is, get your car driveable as soon as possible, drive it, then you have a better idea of what you want. Second, is always buy the best Tool/Car/Part you can afford, don't always look for bargains, you will only buy a better one anyway. So, I have proven these to be true, by doing the opposite and re doing and spending more! When you know the right way to do it, but do it YOUR WAY anyway...is that a sign of insanity

[Maverick]

And, I remember, "Once you change something it never the same".

[oldvettedad]

And, I remember, "Once you change something it never the same".

Oh yeah, the immortal words of that great philosopher Carl Pisarello I kind of forgot that.

[Maverick]

My original '72 rear springs were sagging so much that they had a backward arch in the front half. Although I liked the stance, being lower was creating interference problems with my add-on sway bar and traction bars.

A junk yard '70 2-door was sitting up nicely so I got the springs off that. Swapped them in and the car sat as low as before or even a tad lower. Did notice, when the springs were side-by-side, that the '70 leaves were a little thinner than the '72s.

Didn't want to buy ANOTHER pair of springs so I cut the eyes off of the '70 main leaves and added them as fourth leaves in my original '72 springs.

Just finished installing them. The car sits a little higher than I'd like in the back, which isn't too surprising with doubled main leaves. If it doesn't settle and stays TOO high I'll add some lowering blocks.

[Maverick]

The last thing needed before the Sprint can make a run on the 1/8th mile is a radiator overflow bottle. Picked one up at my favorite junk yard yesterday. It came off a very small Ford wagon. I wanted a small one so it wouldn't look too crowded on the fender apron. This one fits well, I think. The cap was a modern bright yellow but that got fixed with a little rattle can plastic paint/dye.

OK, WXO, pick a Thursday!!