Tim knapp's 460 swap into Walt's '69 F250

wxo · Post by **wxo** » Sat Oct 29, 2005 10:34 pm

OK, here's my first update since Fred left. I'm working on converting the mechanical clutch to a hydraulic clutch. I had a custom lever made to match the mounting position of the master cylinder on the firewall. Well, the match made in heaven turned out to be a bit off. So I did some creative modifications to move the lever to the left and it worked well. Now the problem morphs into the actuator rod being too short. So I cut it and use an extender nut to lengthen it and provide some length adjustment. Now things are beginning to look better. Oops, now the extender nut (which is considerably larger than the original diameter of the rod) is hitting the master cylinder when the pedal is depressed. Now the relative position of the master cylinder to the end of the new lever has become more critical. At this point, I'm going to give up, pull the motor and tranny again and install the C6 and forget about the 5 speed.
It's just more than I want to deal with.

Fred32v · Post by **Fred32v** » Sun Oct 30, 2005 1:26 am

Too bad! I hate to see the 5 speed go. Not sure you need to pull the motor to swap in the C6, just pull the tranny. I wonder if the length of the C6 is the same as the ZF5. This will introduce many new and interesting questions. I know where you can get back 1.25 inches. Waiting for next weeks installment.

wxo · Post by **wxo** » Sun Oct 30, 2005 9:05 am

I just wanted to see if anyone was paying attention! Good job, Fred. I should have know you would be watching with your eagle eye.
To continue...
As much as I didn't want to do it, I believe I'll elongate the mounting holes and move the master cylinder on the firewall. Once I get everything lined up perfectly, I may have a problem with too much travel into the master cylinder. I guess I'll just have to engineer a pedal stop if that's the case.
I'm expecting to receive my new slave cylinder tomorrow. The preformed plastic hydraulic line may prove to be another obstacle. I believe I will be required to change some of the bends to match my truck chassis. Have any of you ever messed with this plastic tubing? I've tried my heat gun, but this stuff has a good memory and tries to go back to it's original shape. I was thinking of using another type of tubing, but the metal end connectors are crimped on and don't seem to be compatable with the steel tubing to which I'm accustomed. Oh well, I'll deal with that when the time comes. Maybe next week I can report that the new clutch is working.
I know you guys like your pictures, so here's a few to keep you satisfied:

Post by **TireSmoker** » Sun Oct 30, 2005 9:50 am

So you basically need to move the position of the adjusting nut, closer to the pedal side of the rod?

wxo · Post by **wxo** » Mon Oct 31, 2005 11:49 am

I spend a few hours this morning finishing the rebuild of my Holley 6210 spreadbore. The inclusion of this carb adds a bit more history to this project. I bought this carb in the early '70s to replace the quad-jet on my '67 Nova SS. I'm really glad to be able to use it on the 460. I chose the Edelbrock Performer RPM spreadbore just for this carb.
Check it out:

MostMint · Post by **MostMint** » Mon Oct 31, 2005 1:02 pm

Spreadbore on a Ford? It looks good on there, just seems unusual.

I think Fred had one for his 68 Camaro - looked a lot like that one. Is this a coincidence?

I want to know who bought theirs first and who needed to get one to catch up.

wxo · Post by **wxo** » Mon Oct 31, 2005 1:21 pm

Actually, Andy, I believe I was the only one to have a Holley spreadbore back in those days. I'm sure Fred will correct me if I'm wrong.
And... as to Fords using spreadbores...it is a little known fact that the 429 Cobra Jet motors of 1970-71 ran 715 cfm GM QuadraJets. It was Ford's "better idea" at the time. Not to mention the fact that they had no suitable performance carb at the time that would help them meet emissions standards.

Dave, I didn't mean to skip over your question. I need some clarification regarding what you are asking. Expand your question a little.

Fred32v · Post by **Fred32v** » Mon Oct 31, 2005 2:40 pm

My 1968 Camaro SS396 350HP had two Holley spreadbores on it in 1970. I didn't like the 800 and eventually kept the 650 (actual 715) on it. That carb was on many many other cars over the years. Eventually I got that carb back. It is now being very useful lighting up my work bench.

wxo · Post by **wxo** » Mon Oct 31, 2005 4:52 pm

OK, so Fred's got me two to one. BUT, I had the spreadbore FIRST and he escalated!

MostMint · Post by **MostMint** » Tue Nov 01, 2005 8:50 am

wxo wrote:OK, so Fred's got me two to one. BUT, I had the spreadbore FIRST and he escalated!

Well if you had the Holley first, then I would say you escalated, and he had to buy one to keep up. I know after tiresmoker bought roller rockers I was compelled to keep up. You just can't help it.

Before it was a lamp, I am pretty sure that Holley was on several of my cars. If I recall correctly I ran 13.70's with that carb on my 327 in my Trans Am.

I can't recall what happened to it that got it demoted to lamp status. I think you have an old Ford motor that you could turn into a lamp or end table.

Basement Paul · Post by **Basement Paul** » Tue Nov 01, 2005 1:21 pm

I had the carb on my Vette and also on the Cadillac. It's now a lamp because it's been rebuilt too many times and has some stripped out holes and is just plain wore. But don't worry, I still have one from a swap meat that is in VGC and also an 800cfm on the Caddy right now working well.

-BP

wxo · Post by **wxo** » Thu Nov 03, 2005 10:44 am

OK, guys, I could use some help on a sticky problem here at swap central.
My stock 1988 Ford truck hydraulic clutch setup needs a hydraulic line between the master and slave cylinders. I have the stock plastic formed tubing (that fits an '88 Ford truck), but it has all the wrong bends and won't work. Here's what the end fittings look like:

How can I either:
1) Cut and splice the plastic tubing to make it work or...
2) Somehow splice in metal tubing or ...
3) Attach these types of fittings to metal tubing (preferred)
??????
With all that brain power out there, I wanna hear some good ideas.

wxo · Post by **wxo** » Sat Nov 05, 2005 9:47 am

OK, now after considerable online research, I have a better understanding of the enemy. The tubing is 5/16 OD PA12 polyamide (nylon). It responds to molding by emersion in boiling water so now I should be able to shape the sucker to my needs. The hydraulic line that I have is about 3 times longer than I need so I really would like to cut a lot of it out and splice it back together. I saw only one writeup on splicing and the guy used a compression union fitting while inserting a smaller piece of tubing to help support the nylon tubing from the inside. I'm really tempted to try this. I guess the worst that can happen is I'll ruin it and have to buy another one.
Hey! Keep those cards and letters coming. We've now pulled ahead of Andy with his Corvette Project (270 views to 256). He's fadin' fast in the rearview mirror.

MostMint · Post by **MostMint** » Sat Nov 05, 2005 7:10 pm

wxo wrote: We've now pulled ahead of Andy with his Corvette Project (270 views to 256). He's fadin' fast in the rearview mirror.

Silly me - didn't think it would turn into a competition. I should know better than that.

Just make sure that whatever slice you use will stand up to the pressure. If I had that issue I would check with someone who has to deal with fabricating hydraulic lines. Like an agricultural tractor dealer or maybe a equipment rental shop.

Fred32v · Post by **Fred32v** » Sat Nov 05, 2005 7:19 pm

I went to Napa with a picture of your fitting, no help. So I went back to Classic Ford with the picture. Unfortunately, Bob said he couldn't really help without a model or part number. He suggested a custom clutch outfit.
Judging by the helmet, it looks like your taking the hill by yourself. Too long is better than too short.