Chevelle Upgrades, 2019

[TireSmoker]

I hadn't really planned on starting this thread, because I never really got started on anything over the winter, other than gathering parts for my conversion to sequential injection + COP ignition, which I had started in another thread. I wasn't sure how I wanted to do a few things, so I procrastinated since my car was otherwise running fine.

Driving to work last Friday, I ran it pretty hard down 271 and heard a new noise. Twice, kind of ping noise that I'd never heard, while at speed. I continue to work, and go home with no issues. Yesterday (sunday), I pull it out of the garage, and while it's idling in the driveway, I see a big oil spot on the floor, but way behind, not under the engine. WTF? I drove it over to my parents, no issues, short lap of Chesterland, and put it back in the garage. I put cardboard under the rear and today there's a bunch more oil. Something has dented the cover from the inside.

The rear end is a 12-bolt posi that was put together in 1992!! This will be the first time I'm opening it up since then. I'll be paying a visit to Jim down in Richfield, most likely.

-Dave

[TireSmoker]

Got the rear-end out last night. Called Jim @ JD Race yesterday, I'll drop it off this week. I'm still not supposed to be lifting anything heavy after surgery, so I might need to round up some help getting it loaded in my truck.

-Dave

[Basement Paul]

You could use an engine hoist if you didn't want to wait for anybody. You sticking with the same gears?

-BP

[TireSmoker]

Yep, hoist is my other option. I may give that a shot tonight. Probably keeping the same gears.

-Dave

[Basement Paul]

3.73's put you about 2400 at 70mph, and through the traps at 113 it's 5800. Might as well upgrade a little. That's why you have OD, muh man! Even 3.90's...

-BP

[TireSmoker]

I took the rearend down to JD Race last night. We opened it up and found a broken tooth. He showed me the gear pattern, which seemed to be a bit shallow.

I'm gonna try upgrading to 3.73s. I've had 3.55s for a loonnng time, and they were a better street gear back in the TH350 days. I know it's not a huge change, but it's a change in the correct direction. Besides, from BP's experience, getting the gears changed is a (relatively) cheap operation if nothing else needs to be replaced/upgraded.

I'm likely going to replace the rear suspension control arms while I'm in there. The current bushings squeak quite a bit have been in there since.. I don't remember.. maybe when I did the rear suspension bushings when I first did the rear in 1992 or when I re-did the engine/front suspension between 99-01... The setup Tony has in his '69 is made by Pure Muscle Technology (PMT) and works really well.

While talking to Paul last night, he reminded me I'll need to change my speedometer gears. This still remains a great page for figuring that stuff out: https://www.5speeds.com/calculators/SpeedoCalc.html

More to come...

-Dave

[TireSmoker]

So last Friday, I went back to JD Race to pick up my axle. Of course, it wasn't just a simple ring and pinion change. Basically, my posi was junk, the cross shaft wouldn't come out, he had to hammer/bang/cut enough of it until he could get the axle c-clips out. That posi was a Canfield or Randolph special. 2-series carrier, and when I had it setup, they had to use a spacer for my 3.55 gears. This rear axle was the oldest piece of the drivetrain, by far. Many engines and transmissions had come and gone before this axle broke.

It now has a Yukon posi with 3.73 gears. My old Moser axles were still good so they were re-used.

So I excitedly left Richfield with my new axles and went promptly -- to Andy's. To get the Saturn ready for the pre-Nelson track day. Saturday out at Nelson Ledges. Sunday, Chris and I started pulling the engine/trans out of his VR6 GTI. Meanwhile, my Chevelle has been hanging around without an axle. Booo...

I bought a UMI rear suspension kit with new upper & lower arms, triangulation braces, a rear sway bar, and 4 new shocks.The brakes were re-done in 2016 or 2017 I think. I re-did one of the brake lines then in NiCopp, I will re-do the other one this time, and then give the whole thing a coat of paint. I also bought a new Pitman arm, as I think now might be as good a time as any to also swap in my fast-ratio steering box that has been sitting on the shelf. It's supposed to be a "bolt-in".

-Dave

[TireSmoker]

Well, after a month of letting this project languish, I finally got it all back together and took it for the first test drive today! Everything seems good, all of the squeaking/groaning my suspension used to make is gone. I can barely tell the difference from the 3.55s. I suppose it'll more noticeable at higher speeds.

I drove it real easy as directed by JDRace. I'll let it cool for an hour and take it out again for a slightly longer drive.

-Dave

[Basement Paul]

The "break in" takes forever, because all you want to do is beat the crap out of it. It should hold up forever afterwards though.

-BP

[TireSmoker]

Well, the new posi/gears/suspension/shocks are done! I used Jerry's drive on lift, with exclusive tire-iron safeties, to put the final torque on the control arms. I've driven it several times now for to break it in (several heat cycles). Next time I drive it, I'll probably let 'er rip!

[Basement Paul]

Is that your old rear bumper behind Jerry's garage?

-BP

[TireSmoker]

Haha, no.. hes got waaay more old chevelle parts laying around than me.

Drove it to work this morning. Still haven't gotten on it yet.

-Dave

[TireSmoker]

So I *finally* got around to an upgrade I've been meaning to do for years. There's a late-model steering box you can swap in -- bolt-in direct -- that is supposed to totally upgrade the feel and give a faster ratio. Corvette or Camaro box you say? Nope. JEEP. Grand Cherokee.

Decided on Monday to take Tuesday off -- very good decision!

Old box and new box

New box fully installed and plumbed

My one issue -- the center link doesn't want to seat correctly into the new pitman arm.

I 'll try to re-seat the center link later today. Worst case, I suppose, is to swap to the old pitman arm.

-Dave

[Maverick]

Dave,

Had the same issue when a Monte Carlo steering box was swapped in to the El Camino. There are two different diameters for that style of splines. Got it resolved with the seller listed here. https://www.tiresmoke.org/viewtopic.php ... arm#p13144 That seller can probably tell you what pitman arm will work for you.

The Jeep steering box is also a popular swap in El Caminos. A search on the El Camino Forum will give you lots of info. https://www.elcaminocentral.com/forums.php

I loved the quicker steering/road feel with the MC box. People say the same about the Jeep box.

Jim

[TireSmoker]

I think the only reason Chevelle guys don't use the MC SS box is that the steering limits (internal) are wrong. Cant remember if its too tight or not tight enough in terms of resulting turn radius.

The new pitman arm is installed on the steering box. It's for a '70 Chevelle, as the swap normally calls for you swapping over your stock PA. I just bought a new one to save time (!!) and everything eyeballed ok, although I didnt measure that hole.

The centerlink (drag link?) is not fully engaging. As that's a hole on the pitman arm, there are pitman arms with different size holes for centerlink side?

-Dave