2003 S-10
Moderators: MostMint, wxo, Fred32v, Basement Paul, ttamrettus
Re: 2003 S-10
I see a fuel pressure gauge in your future.
[quote="Basement Paul"]Is that a mint rocketship on the hood?? :shock:
-BP[/quote]
-BP[/quote]
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Basement Paul
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Re: 2003 S-10
Tonight I put the new Accel coil on. The only curious thing about the MSD one that I took out was that it is now rattling in its holder, where the Accel one is not. I intend to drive it tomorrow to breakfast and then after for quite awhile to determine if it's the fuel pump or not.
No fuel pressure gauge. If it stalls tomorrow, I'll change the fuel pump.
-BP
No fuel pressure gauge. If it stalls tomorrow, I'll change the fuel pump.
-BP
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Basement Paul
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Re: 2003 S-10
I drove it a bunch this morning after leaving breakfast. I drove to Smoker's house to check out all his motors and transmissions and we had some fun along the way with the S-10 and old Vette. So far no problems.
After leaving his pad, I drove for about 35 minutes of mixed driving and eventually it died again. It seems like it happens most just after turning a corner and driving for about 100 ft, but it did die one time with Amy in the truck while going straight so who knows. What I do know is that after I leave it sit for a couple minutes and then restart it, it does take several cranks to get the fuel back in the system, so that makes me feel better that this is my problem.
Summit told me that my five month old Walbro fuel pump does not come with any warranty... what? Summit covers the products they sell for 90 days, but I'm out of that zone also. Hopefully the new fuel pump will not give me this problem again after five more months...
-BP
After leaving his pad, I drove for about 35 minutes of mixed driving and eventually it died again. It seems like it happens most just after turning a corner and driving for about 100 ft, but it did die one time with Amy in the truck while going straight so who knows. What I do know is that after I leave it sit for a couple minutes and then restart it, it does take several cranks to get the fuel back in the system, so that makes me feel better that this is my problem.
Summit told me that my five month old Walbro fuel pump does not come with any warranty... what? Summit covers the products they sell for 90 days, but I'm out of that zone also. Hopefully the new fuel pump will not give me this problem again after five more months...
-BP
Re: 2003 S-10
What about contacting Walbro to see what they say about it?
Re: 2003 S-10
BP,Basement Paul wrote:
Summit told me that my five month old Walbro fuel pump does not come with any warranty... what? Summit covers the products they sell for 90 days, but I'm out of that zone also. Hopefully the new fuel pump will not give me this problem again after five more months...
-BP
I'm surprised they wouldn't make good on it. They took a Summit carb back after 11 months and gave me a full refund.
I second the fuel pressure gauge suggestion. The in-line mechanical gauges are cheap and easy to install. Even though its only under the hood it will tell you something when the trouble develops. Think its a good idea, although I also think it sounds like ignition rather than fuel.
I did the guage and a regulator when I suspected too high fuel pressure.
Jim
Maverick
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Basement Paul
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Re: 2003 S-10
As of right now, the tank and pump are spread all over my garage and I'm waiting for the new Accel pump (warranted for 12 months) to arrive. I should have it tomorrow. I thought I might find a replacement local so I took the Caddy out to stop at a few local parts stores to see if I could find one. On the way home I had some trouble with the Caddy (more to come in the Caddy post) and now I have only one car that I can rely on... the Saturn. I'm afraid to drive it anywhere today.
-BP
-BP
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TireSmoker
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Re: 2003 S-10
Just keep a couple wheel bearings on hand. The rest of it will take the abuse!Basement Paul wrote: I have only one car that I can rely on... the Saturn. I'm afraid to drive it anywhere today.
-BP
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Basement Paul
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Re: 2003 S-10
So today my new "Accel" fuel pump arrives. Turns out, it's a Walbro with a warranty...
Anyway, I put it in. The truck started and seemed to run Ok to the gas station. On my way home from there, it died completely. I had it towed home. Ugh. That's two tow trucks in two days.
One strange thing I noticed (actually Fast87 noticed it) is that the PCM was insanely HOT to the touch. After dinner and a shower, I plugged the stock computer in to see if it would fire up. Nope. It just cranks and cranks. The fuel pump makes completely normal noises, the coil has power and throws spark to the distributor. I'm a little miffed. I'm going to do some research tonight to see if there's issues with cam sensors or distributors.
I hate crap like this.
-BP
Anyway, I put it in. The truck started and seemed to run Ok to the gas station. On my way home from there, it died completely. I had it towed home. Ugh. That's two tow trucks in two days.
One strange thing I noticed (actually Fast87 noticed it) is that the PCM was insanely HOT to the touch. After dinner and a shower, I plugged the stock computer in to see if it would fire up. Nope. It just cranks and cranks. The fuel pump makes completely normal noises, the coil has power and throws spark to the distributor. I'm a little miffed. I'm going to do some research tonight to see if there's issues with cam sensors or distributors.
I hate crap like this.
-BP
Re: 2003 S-10
BP....
I was having an issue with the Vette where it just would die at the high end of
the gears. It turned out to be an ignition switch. Paul Carson said he thought that
was the problem and that he had many cars that were the same vintage as mine
having this issue. I'm not making a guarantee here, but I think I'd try it. There's
way to much to type here about why I think that's the problem, so call me if
you want more imput.
GM
I was having an issue with the Vette where it just would die at the high end of
the gears. It turned out to be an ignition switch. Paul Carson said he thought that
was the problem and that he had many cars that were the same vintage as mine
having this issue. I'm not making a guarantee here, but I think I'd try it. There's
way to much to type here about why I think that's the problem, so call me if
you want more imput.
GM
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Basement Paul
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Re: 2003 S-10
It was REALLY hot today so I didn't spend too much time with it. I can tell you it's not the cap & rotor (but they were in TERRIBLE condition). With the key on, I pushed in on the pressure side of the fuel line and nothing came out. Not a drop. I bought a fuel filter and a fuel pressure gauge today. I'll mess with it in the morning. I hear the pump turn on and cycle, but apparently nothing makes it up to the motor. I'll also try a little ether to see if it pops. I don't believe it's the fuel filter though. The gas has to go through two screens in the tank before it gets to the filter, but I figure it will need it either way after 10 years.
I read about bad ignition switches in 2003 S-10s too. When the switches go bad on these, it lights up the dash like a Xmas tree and the windows don't work too, but they still run.
I'm wondering if there's some check valve somewhere that I'm missing.
-BP
I read about bad ignition switches in 2003 S-10s too. When the switches go bad on these, it lights up the dash like a Xmas tree and the windows don't work too, but they still run.
I'm wondering if there's some check valve somewhere that I'm missing.
-BP
Re: 2003 S-10
The fuel filter was bad on my VR.... with only 1500 miles or so??? After doing some internet searching, new(er) filters clogging is not unheard of. After replacing the filter its been okay.
IIRC GM filters have a cool- and easy on off connector set-up. Hopefully its the filter and not cam sensors and that kind of stuff.
IIRC GM filters have a cool- and easy on off connector set-up. Hopefully its the filter and not cam sensors and that kind of stuff.
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Basement Paul
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Re: 2003 S-10
So I hooked up my pressure gauge and confirmed there was no fuel making it to the motor. I changed the fuel filter and although the old one did have some crap in it, I didn't believe it was the problem and it wasn't.
At this point I started disconnecting fuel pressure lines and testing an open line with the key on and still nothing came out. So the last thing to do was pull the tank again. As it turn out, the fuel line from the pump to the sending unit popped off at the sending unit end. I had it clamped on, but apparently not good enough. This got me thinking about the first time the truck was dying. I believe the same fuel line was getting sucked closed after time and the first fuel pump is good too. What I did was get a longer hose, re-route it around the outside for a smoother run without any kinking possibility, and put a hose clamp mid hose to help support it even more. Hopefully the problem is solved.
The computer still gets really hot, but I'm guessing that's normal. Under WOT it does run noticeably better now with the new cap / rotor, and higher perf coil, but with the computer and battery being disconnected so long, the truck doesn't idle again in gear. This happened when I first put it together and the computer guy says "It's a learning computer" so just drive it for awhile and it should straighten out (which it did the first time).
So now I just need to drive it. Maybe I'll be able to make it to the track afterall. I think I'm going to drive it to work tomorrow just to put some time on it as I only drove it around for about 15 minutes after letting it idle for about 10 before I drove it.
-BP
At this point I started disconnecting fuel pressure lines and testing an open line with the key on and still nothing came out. So the last thing to do was pull the tank again. As it turn out, the fuel line from the pump to the sending unit popped off at the sending unit end. I had it clamped on, but apparently not good enough. This got me thinking about the first time the truck was dying. I believe the same fuel line was getting sucked closed after time and the first fuel pump is good too. What I did was get a longer hose, re-route it around the outside for a smoother run without any kinking possibility, and put a hose clamp mid hose to help support it even more. Hopefully the problem is solved.
The computer still gets really hot, but I'm guessing that's normal. Under WOT it does run noticeably better now with the new cap / rotor, and higher perf coil, but with the computer and battery being disconnected so long, the truck doesn't idle again in gear. This happened when I first put it together and the computer guy says "It's a learning computer" so just drive it for awhile and it should straighten out (which it did the first time).
So now I just need to drive it. Maybe I'll be able to make it to the track afterall. I think I'm going to drive it to work tomorrow just to put some time on it as I only drove it around for about 15 minutes after letting it idle for about 10 before I drove it.
-BP
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Basement Paul
- Posts: 3380
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Re: 2003 S-10
Since my last posting, my Blazer needed a new mass air flow sensor. So instead of buying a stock replacement one for the Blazer, I stole it off my S-10 and then bought an upgraded and larger Jet one. It seems to have helped since my boost seems to have gone up to almost 10psi near redline.
Today I removed the driveshaft out of my S-10 and drove it across town to Henderson Driveline to make me a new version in Aluminum. I should be able to pick it up on Saturday morning. Between this and the mass air flow sensor, I should be consitently in the 13's. I also removed the hitch to cut some weight. IF it is, in fact, in the 13's, I think I'll be done making it faster for a long time.
The only other thing(s) I plan to do this winter to the truck is an upgraded transmission pan (and filter / oil change) and rear differential cover. Both should help lower operating temperatures a little.
-BP
Today I removed the driveshaft out of my S-10 and drove it across town to Henderson Driveline to make me a new version in Aluminum. I should be able to pick it up on Saturday morning. Between this and the mass air flow sensor, I should be consitently in the 13's. I also removed the hitch to cut some weight. IF it is, in fact, in the 13's, I think I'll be done making it faster for a long time.
The only other thing(s) I plan to do this winter to the truck is an upgraded transmission pan (and filter / oil change) and rear differential cover. Both should help lower operating temperatures a little.
-BP
Re: 2003 S-10
Hey BP...
If you go in the trans, talk to me about that valve body sitting
on my workbench....I'm sure I can work you a sweeeeet deal.
GM
If you go in the trans, talk to me about that valve body sitting
on my workbench....I'm sure I can work you a sweeeeet deal.
GM
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Basement Paul
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- Joined: Sun Jul 17, 2005 9:27 pm
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Re: 2003 S-10
I picked up the new driveshaft on Saturday. Looks good, but I haven't installed it yet.
-BP
-BP