Since my last post, I've studied up a bit on this and taken steps to move forward. After a bit of
deliberation with myself, I've decided to do a couple of things over the winter. First step is to make
sure my rear ends are in good shape. I'm going to have the rear end guy check our gear install on the 3.90
axle and go over the 3.23 whele he's at it. It developed a small pinion seal leak, and I want that fixed. In
my mind there's a small clunk in that rear end and I want it checked so I don't destroy a tough-to-find
gear set and factory correct axle housing. The rear ends go to the shop today. While removing the rear
axle yesterday, I wanted to check the control arm bushings. I have new rubber ones waiting on the bench.
As I was removing bolts, I noticed that the bushings seemed firm in the arms. Upon inspection after the
axle was on the floor, I noticed nearly new bushings that seemed real hard. Low and behold there was a
part # on them and it turns out they're urethane bushings. That's good news. It also turns out that the
guy who assembled the car before me didn't know how to use a torque wrench! The bolts that connect the
control arms to the body of the car are supposed to be at 80 ft./lbs. torqued and I used a 3/8" ratchet and
very easily loosened them up. Grabbing the control arm and pushing it side to side, I could get an easy 3/4"
play. I tightened them up and after tightening them, the play was almost not measurable. I'm certain this
isn't helping my wheel hop situation. I'm going to study up a bit more on this before I install the rear end,
but I'm feeling pretty confident that I've discovered a bit part of the problem. Here's a link to what's in there:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ptp-7-225-blThe other install guy also decided to leave out the thrust washer cups on the top control arm where it connects
to the frame. I think I'll get this kit and some urethane lube and do these the right way. Never a dull moment!
GM