1978 Lincoln Continental Coupe

[Maverick]

Three major drivability issues are handled. AC is working great, brakes working great, and NAPA (not Motorcraft, long story) ignition/starter switch fixed the no-crank problem. When the roads are dry, I'll take it for a spin and fill the fuel tank again. Funny how everyone asks about gas mileage, as if they didn't know. Think in the future I'll say "39 highway".

Ignition/starter switch was more difficult than I imagined. Like so many Ford ignition switches, it is in two parts. The lock cyl in the column is connected by a rod to the electrical part of the switch which bolts to the column further down. Thought I'd stick my head under the dash, unplug the connector, unbolt the electrical part and install the new one. Not quite. My "Lincoln" shop manuals said remove the instrument cluster and drop the steering column, which would be easy if you could get to the stuff under the dash. My hands don't fit in the tiny access paths to the speedo cable, cluster connector, etc. I actually almost got stuck with my feet by the pedals and my legs over the seat back. (Edit: THAT would be a trick. I meant HEAD by the pedals and legs over the seat back.) Couldn't get my head out between the dash and transmission hump and had a heck of a time scootching out. Got me thinking about Life Alert, "HELP, I've crawled in and can't get out!!"

Now I can finish up the brakes on the F100 (in the AC garage) and return it to my son.

Replacement power antenna, shoulder strap guide, RH mirror/trim and visor peg should be here early next week. Maybe, in the meantime, I'll get to the not-working power door locks.

[Maverick]

From the Lincoln forum:

I don't know what you be talkin bout, I get great mileage!

[Basement Paul]

Tell them it's a Hybrid...

-BP

[Maverick]

Hadn't noticed it before but the blower motor only works on "High". Easy fix, right? Maybe not. The Automatic Temperature Control has a fairly complex set of devices and circuits. Not sure if the ATC controls the fan speed or not but I think it does. Fan behaves differently depending on where the function selector (heat, AC, ...) is set.

Checked the fan resistor cluster and it appears OK. There's a little device that looks like a resistor but it interrupts power for speeds other than high (which doesn't use the resistors) when temp it too high. At 12:30 AM a couple of nights ago it occurred to me that the symptoms are what would be expected if that device had overheated. Got up out of bed and checked continuity across that device. Not the problem. Rats!!

Ordered a new Motorcraft fan switch for $18 from RockAuto. Hope to get it by the end of the week. If that doesn't fix it, I'll post the symptoms on the Lincoln forum and see if anyone knows what the problem might be. I hate to start replacing those hard-to-find and expensive components of the ATC system.

The ATC blower switch is not a simple 12V out on a unique pin for each switch position. Some positions put voltage on multiple pins. However, maybe the blower switch for a NON ATC Lincoln WILL be a simple one pin out for each switch position. If the new switch doesn't fix the problem, maybe I can find a simple 4-position switch and wire the blower for manual control. The repair manual has a diagram of the resistor cluster that shows which pins in give which fan speeds. With the right switch it would be easy to wire the fan for manual control. I'd be happy with that solution if the new switch doesn't fix the problem.

[Maverick]

Found the culprit and its not the switch. There's a "High Blower Relay" on the firewall that provides battery voltage, avoiding the resistor assembly, to run the blower on high when the relay is energized and graduated voltage thru the resistor assembly for lower speeds when the resistor is not energized. By jumpering the contacts in the blower connector the blower would run on high and, alternatively on lower speeds. The suspect is convicted!!

Took the cover off the relay and tried, unsuccessfully, to repair it. Looked on the Lincoln parts suppliers web sites but didn't find the relay listed. It was after hours last night so I didn't call to check on availability and price but, rather, decided to try to use one of the 40A universal relays left over from previous projects. Blower current draw is 25A on high so 40A relay should be durable.

I wanted to remove the female blade terminals from the original connector and install them in the connector for the new relay but no dice. The terminals on the heavy wires were too beefy to go into the universal 40A relay connector. I took pictures of the process but they are too blurry to post. Don't know if its the camera or photographer, but I cannot take good close up pictures. Sorry, I know you guys like pictures.

So, Plan C was to remove the wires/terminals from the original connector, isolate each one with tape, and slip them directly on to the universal relay. A picture of the result is attached. The green wire provides a ground for the relay. The original relay grounded thru its metal body.

The universal relay was a 5-prong SPDT. I think the common use for this relay is to switch a single power source between two different loads. One load gets power when the relay is not energized; the other load gets energized when the relay is energized. In this case, however there is one load (blower) and two power sources (one from the resistor assembly for low speeds and one directly from the battery for high speed. No matter, the switch doesn't care which way current is flowing.

This is how the original wires attach to the universal relay blades (included so I have a record):

#85: A ground is required. A lead goes from #85 to the mounting screw for the relay.
#86: O/BD to the high pin out on the blower switch.
#30: O/BKS to the blower motor.
#87: BK/LT.GR.S to the battery.
#87A: DK.B/WH to the resistor assembly.

I like the universal relay solution 'cause it didn't cost me anything. IF an original relay could be found it wouldn't be cheap.

I didn't realize how dirty the firewall is. Gonna have to wash down the engine bay.

[Basement Paul]

For your camera close-ups, try stepping back a few feet, and zooming in manually. I had a camera that would only focus up close by getting farther away- if that makes any sense...

-BP

[Maverick]

Good tip. The problem is I always THINK I have good pictures till they're loaded on the computer. The camera was even giving me a green box indicating focus was OK.

The little display on the camera doesn't look blurry when they are displayed there. By the time I get them on the computer its too late for re-takes.

I'll do the zoom next time.

[Maverick]

Been working on two items: non-working power door locks and adding a RH outside rear-view mirror. Hard to believe that a '78 Lincoln wouldn't have a RH mirror standard but it was an option on the base models.

I hope the problem with the power locks is the switches. Both have to work for the either switch to function. Power from the LH switch goes thru the RH switch, to the motor. Ground for the motor goes thru the RH and LH switches to ground by the LH switch. Power from the RH switch goes to the motor and ground comes back thru the RH switch to the RH switch and finally, to the chassis. So, both switch have to be working for either switch to function. When continuity was lacking between two posts on the RH switch I went looking for replacements for both. Glad I got the factory wiring diagrams for this car.

The only place I could find a switch with the same part number was an ebay seller who wanted $75 each plus $30 shipping for two. $180 for these two little 1"X.75" switches with 6 prongs. Tried to learn if other years/cars used a compatible switch but info was inconclusive. Switches used in '80-up Ford products LOOKED identical. I could get them off ebay for $34 each plus shipping. Still too much. A Lincoln parts seller had a different numbered switch listed for the '78 Continental. Also $34 but out of stock. Did a search on that number and found an ebay seller for that switch for $11 each shipped. Two are on the way. I expect they will solve the problem but should know by the end of the week.

Got a RH mirror, cables, joy stick and molding from the same guy on the Lincoln forum that sold me the antenna, etc. The mirror bisects a piece of door molding so one door-length piece has to be replaced with two, one in front and one behind the mirror. He came up with almost everything to install the mirror. I think a bracket that supports the cables behind the joy stick is missing. And he wasn't able to salvage the screws to mount the mirror to the door. Think it'll be OK without the bracket with reasonable use of the joy stick. I mounted the mirror with two steel 8-32 screws till I can get two stainless, counter sink ones to replace them.

The joy stick mounts on the right side of the steering column on the dash bezel for speedo and idiot lights. The bezel is double walled and the rear wall already had the hole for the joy stick. That made it easy to locate the hole thru the front of the bezel. A 1 1/8" hole would be just right but I didn't have a hole saw that size. 1 1/4" turned out to be a tiny bit too big so I had to make a big washer to put behind the bezel. That took care of it and the big nut for the joy stick covers the too-big hole nicely.

So now I have to wait for the door lock switches and new clips for the door panel to arrive before work can continue. Should be here by the end of the week.

[Maverick]

The power door locks didn't work on the Continental. The motors, "secured" by rubber bushings, fell out of their mounts when the bushings wore out. The rod to the key in the RH door was not attached. And, the switches were bad.

Made some new bushings from some grommets and that mounted the locks securely. Reattached the rod and the key lock worked. Finding switches was a challenge but finally found some with another part number that fit on ebay.

A pleasant surprise about 11 AM: mail lady brought the door lock switches, door panel clips, and a 1978 Lincoln/Mercury brochure.

Tried the switches with everything hanging loose and, THE LOCKS WORKED. Now to stuff all the wires and switches (6-way seats, window switches, lock switches, LH mirror cables) back in the panel and get it mounted. With LH door lock switch installed, it NO LONGER WORKED. After a beer and some thought I took the switch back out of its mount and -- it worked again. Mounted it -- doesn't work. Mounted with screws just snug -- it works. Good enough. Hung the LH panel. The RH panel went together and in place with no major issues. The car is ready to drive again.

If the switches need work again it won't be a hard job. Everything behind the panels is in good shape now. The switch panel lifts out of the arm rest to do whatever needs doing on the switches.

There's been an occasional STRONG gas smell. And, the idle must be around 900 RPM. The converter seems loose enough, and the car heavy enough, that the idle hasn't been a problem but I couldn't see any reason to have it so high. This morning, while waiting for the parts to arrive, I pulled the air cleaner off to look things over. No major fuel leaks were apparent. But, the choke was on really hard. Eased it by 10 or 15 degrees and the idle dropped to, I guess, around 600. Haven't driven it yet to see how it responds to the new choke setting.

Think I'll wash it tomorrow and take it for a little test drive. Feel like I've earned it.

[Maverick]

The only rust spots are a dime-sized spot where paint is bubbling on the front fender above the LH rocker trim and some more bubbling in the same spot on the RH rocker.

Ya'll know how it is with rust, its usually twice as bad as it looks at first. Well, not this time. With the rocker trim removed, it really didn't get any worse.

I really like OSPHO for treating surface rust. Brush it on, let it sit for a few minutes, wire brush it, wipe it off, repeat as necessary, and light surface rust is removed and heavy surface rust is stabilized.

Gray POR 15 is on order and will be applied on all the spots where paint is now missing. Also have some Grey Metallic touch up paint on the way which I hope will go over the POR 15 without a problem. If the gray POR 15 can't be covered with touch up paint, it'll be OK. Doubt it'll be noticeable down by the rockers.

[Fred32v]

If this were Facebook, I'd have to "LIKE" this. Keep going Jim, love your progress.
That Lincoln might find it's way to Michigan before you know it.

[Maverick]

The metallic grey touch-up paint and 2 oz bottle of primer arrived today, both packed inside a plastic bagggie, inside a box. Thought there was a problem when I could smell paint before the box was opened.

Somewhere in there is a 2 oz bottle of primer and an empty, no doubt, bottle of metallic grey paint. Called the seller and they agreed to reship both, which they did today.

The grey POR 15 is to arrive Friday so I should be able to get started on the touch-ups this weekend.

In the meantime, I've been trying to make a plan for drive line improvements. REALLY wanted an OD automatic with lock-up converter but it doesn't look like that's going to happen. The only OD automatics that will bolt up to the 460 are truck transmissions that won't fit well in the "Lincoln Tunnel". Expensive adapters are available for AODs but they have a two-piece input shaft which is necessary for a lock-up converter and isn't made strong enough for the torque of a 460. AODE/4R70Ws are strong enough but require a trans controller like the one that went in the F100 and the same expensive adapter to bolt to the 460. Given that the C6 that's in the car now is a strong trans in very good condition, I don't see me spending big $$$$ to get the OD. Very disappointing.

So, the compromise is probably going to be to live with the C6 with 3.25 (better than the 2.50 in there now) rear end. That'll have a cruise RPM around 2900 RPM which should be OK with a 2400 stall TC.

I've been noodling about heads, cam, intake, and carb to put on the good short block. Have some ideas but some open switches too. I posted the following on the 460Ford forum to see what those guys think of the tentative choices and open switches.

The format follows what they want when seeking advice on engine builds.



My '78 Continental Couple needs more power and I'm making plans for the drive line to give it some. I'm somewhere between a blank slate and looking for confirmation of the choices I've made. I have some ideas but am looking for advice and comments.

Thought I'd use the 460 Edelbrock Performer Power Build menu but quickly ran into questions/issues that force other choices. So, I'm posting up my thoughts here and hoping, with help from members here, to evolve this post into a parts list. Hope it works.

1. Intended use: Street with a few trips to the strip just to time it. Well, there is a certain Trailblazer SS I'd like to keep up with with. Probably not going to happen since he's in the low 13s. Want a good all around city and Interstate cruiser. Reliability is VERY important. Hope MPG doesn't go down too much but that's not the most important factor.

2. Vehicle info (weight/gearing/trans): 1978 Continental Coupe.
. Stock 460 with 41K miles in excellent condition. I want to re-use the stock short block.
- Replace stock heads probably with Performer RPMs. I'd like to buy them assembled but need spring compatibility with whatever cam is chosen. From what I've read, the 75 cc heads will bump the compression up from 8 to 9.1 with stock rotating assembly. 9.5 might be better but not sure how that would happen.
- Replace the carb with Holley 750, not sure which one.
- Replace the intake with Performer RPM. I believe its 1.3" taller than the stock intake. It looks like removing the EGR spacer will allow the hood to close. Some air cleaner adjustments might be necessary.
- Replace the stock cam with something better. The cam in the Edelbrock Power Package Guide needs a 3K stall converter. Think that's too high for cruising the Interstates. I've read that cruise RPMs should be at least 500 RPM above stall. I'm thinking 2400 stall and 2900 cruise RPMs. I'd like to get an off the shelf cam that's compatible with the springs that come on the Edelbrock heads. Roller lifters would be great but probably not in the budget.
- Replace the stock timing chain/sprockets with Edelbrock #7830
- Replace the exhaust manifolds with 72-75 Ford Torino 460 Hooker 6126 headers. 2.5" duals thru performance mufflers. May add glass pack resonators to keep the noise down. There are no headers available that fit out of the box but the 6126s are what's modded and used in the Lincolns
. 2.50 Rear end gears to be replaced with 3.25 Traction Lok
. C6 Trans with some mods for firmer shifts and 2400 stall converter.

3. Fuel desired to use: Hopefully 87 octane, maybe 91. 93 is very expensive.

4. Parts you already have: short block and C6 both in excellent condition.

5. Proposed Budget: $4K for the engine. That number isn't in stone but I'd like to limit it to that.

6. Location: Raleigh, NC

Please let me know what you think. Thanks.


Hope you guys have some thought and opinions too.

[Maverick]

The advice I got from the 460 forum is to use the Edelbrock Performer, rather than Performer RPM, intake on the stock short block with 75 cc Edelbrock heads. Those heads will bump compression by 1.1 from 8.0 to 9.1. Not great for performance but should do well on 87 octane. Guys who seem to know their stuff say the Performer RPM intake won't work well with only 9.1 CR. They say the RPM's larger plenum won't give enough port velocity. I'm not sure what CR has to do with port velocity but there it is. Now, if they had said 460 cubes wasn't going to create enough port velocity with the RPM intake I could understand it. Maybe that's what they meant but you can't have a discussion like that with the gurus. I asked questions till I couldn't take any more blow back and let it go at that.

Anyway, I expect there are good reasons to recommend that combo. The gurus have been building lots of 460s, incl Ford trucks with weight similar to the Lincoln. So, I'll take them at their word. The current state of the parts list, assuming the stock short block, is:

. Assembled Edelbrock heads with 75 cc chambers.
. Edelbrock Performer 460 intake.
. Holley 750 carb.
. Roller rockers, brand TBD.
. Edelbrock multi-keyed timing set or equivalent.
. Cam TBD after discussions with cam builders/grinders
. Lifters
. Push rods
. Headers
. Custom 2.5" duals exhaust
. 3.25 Traction Lok Rear End

I'll put prices on those items and see how the cost/benefit looks. I had to do a Phase II on the Maverick mostly because I didn't stroke it to begin with. When I drove it with the 302, I knew it needed more. The 347 did it for me. But, there won't be a Phase II on the Lincoln so I'll have to get very comfortable with the build based on the stock short block before parts buying begins.

Comments, advice and opinions are welcome. (Decisions I reserve to myself)

[Basement Paul]

That looks like a nice combo of stuff that will put that car IMO, into the mid-low 14's, and not screw up drivability. I think the Performer intake is a good move until you have LOTS of cam. The Performer RPM is not a good torque manifold, which is what you have in spades. My Caddy had a regular Performer on it, and I thought it worked great. Mid 13's and 5000 lbs...

I would recommend going to a 3" exhaust though. That's ALOT of cubic inches to get rid of.

-BP

[wxo]

I'd like to put in a plug for 93 octane gas and a higher compression ratio. I've been using 93 in my TBSS since I got it and I consider it a cost of ownership. I don't even think about it when I go to the gas pump. I think it was Fred32v who brainwashed me.