Chevelle winter projects

ttamrettus · Post by **ttamrettus** » Tue Oct 10, 2006 7:35 am

upping the supply line size would also be an inexpensize upgrade.

MostMint · Post by **MostMint** » Tue Oct 10, 2006 8:08 am

markss327 wrote:Going back to a carb, is, well, like going back to an 8088 with duel floppy drives.....

But a really fast one

Post by **TireSmoker** » Wed Feb 07, 2007 11:41 pm

I went out to the garage this morning, after remembering that the Chevelle only had water in the cooling system. I opened the radiator and found some pretty solid feeling ice. I fired up my heater and went off to work.

When I got home, the heater had run out of kerosene. I refilled it, and took a trip to get more fuel.

After checking on it tonight, I found 2 popped freeze plugs -- looks like from the back of the motor. The yanking shall begin shortly. *sigh*

-Dave

markss327 · Post by **markss327** » Thu Feb 08, 2007 10:17 am

Oh, no.
I pray to God, the freeze plugs have done what they were designed to do.

Post by **TireSmoker** » Thu Feb 08, 2007 10:56 am

Well, 2 of them did. Of course, it didn't pop the front 2, which I could theoretically replace without pulling the engine...

I let my heater run all night. It was almost out of fuel when I went to the garage this morning. I put my little personal electric heater out there between the engine and radiator. I'll get more kerosene after work.

The amount of water on the floor this morning (compared to last night) seemed somewhat 'limited'. I'm taking this as a good sign that maybe the top plugs popped, and that everything else is still water tight. I have not pulled the dipstick yet.

-Dave

Post by **TireSmoker** » Sun Mar 11, 2007 6:09 pm

Well, I made the most of the good weather today. I pulled the engine out of the Chevelle. It turns out it popped the two freeze plugs right in the middle of the block. These are the 'third' freeze plugs that easily identifies a 4-bolt 400 block.

There aren't any cracks around either hole. I'm going to put two freeze plugs in and put it back into the car.

-Dave

Fred32v · Post by **Fred32v** » Sun Mar 11, 2007 8:49 pm

Putting that small block back in is a good plan. It's worth the small risk. Ultimately your only risking an install and removal. If there is something wrong you'll find out pretty quick. I might even bet a double cheeseburger that everything is A OK. May the CAR God be with you.

Post by **TireSmoker** » Sun Mar 11, 2007 9:07 pm

My father suggested pressurizing the cooling system with the engine out of the car. I have that spare radiator, so it might not be a bad idea. I hope I can rent/borrow a cooling system pressurizer from Murrays/Autozone.

-Dave

markss327 · Post by **markss327** » Mon Mar 12, 2007 8:00 am

I put in a few words to the 'Iron Block Gods' in reference to your situation.

=================

"May the Blessed God of almighty acceleration be with you" - I recall that line, or something close to that, from the Blues Brothers movie. I believe a large Mopar B body, was involved, doing all sorts of stunts.

I know, unrelated.

Post by **TireSmoker** » Tue Mar 13, 2007 1:57 pm

New freezeplugs are installed. I'll hopefully be setting the engine back in later today. I've decided it'll just be easier to drop the engine in, hook up/fill the cooling system, and then pressure check it. That way, I'll know if there is damage to the heater core, too. My neighbor across the street (aka- Top Jimmy) has a cooling system pressure checker that I borrowed.

-Dave

Post by **TireSmoker** » Tue Mar 13, 2007 8:59 pm

With a forecast of sunny/70F, I decided it was a perfect day to use a floating holiday.

The engine is back in the car. I only installed two bellhousing bolts, and then hooked up/filled the cooling system. I can pump it up to the 15-17 psi range and it holds, for the most part. It will drop what is probably 1-3 psi over about 30 minutes. I had drained the oil before putting the engine back in, and so far I'm not seeing any water on the dipstick. I was getting some minor leakage from the water pump initially, but I think it was from dry seals/gaskets. It has since stopped. I had the same thing near the heater core -- some initial wetness, but has now stopped.

I think I've dodged a bullet at this point. I'll start to bolt everything together this week and shoot for a St. Patrick's day startup.

-Dave

Post by **TireSmoker** » Tue Mar 13, 2007 10:06 pm

Post by **TireSmoker** » Wed Mar 14, 2007 10:08 pm

Spent an hour in the garage tonight. Re-routed the oil pressure line so it comes out the same hole in the firewall as everything else (cleaner install), but need a ferrel so that I can shorten the line. It was pouring rain and I didn't wanna go to Murray's. That prevented me from putting the distributor cap and plenum back on.

I wasn't in the mood to do the underneath stuff (torque converter, headers, exhaust). Maybe Tomorrow.

-Dave

MostMint · Post by **MostMint** » Thu Mar 15, 2007 9:02 am

Sounds promising so far.

Don't forget that the water will sink to the bottom of the pan. So rather than check the dipstick, see what comes out of the drain plug.

When my 327 broke, I poured a gallon of water into it (foolish me thought it was just a head gasket) and it all went to the bottom of the pan. The water was the first thing to come out when I opened the drain plug.

Post by **TireSmoker** » Thu Mar 15, 2007 9:10 am

I had drained the oil before putting it back into the car. I keep checking the dipstick to see if any water is showing up (there'd have to be 2-3 quarts). I will definately open the drain plug again before adding new oil. Probably when I get the motivation to do all the underneath stuff.

-Dave

TireSmoke.org

Chevelle winter projects

Tragedy strikes

Good Plan

Beautiful day for a floating holiday