1981 El Camino

[TireSmoker]

You may get better access to the starter by merely loosening the header bolts on the engine, which will allow them some wobble room. May or may not be worth the effort, but it helps on my Chevelle. I guess it depends on how easy it is to loosen the header bolts.

-Dave

[MostMint]

I advocate disconnecting the power from the ignition before turning over with plugs out. Will keep spark from going places it should not be

[Maverick]

You may get better access to the starter by merely loosening the header bolts on the engine, which will allow them some wobble room. May or may not be worth the effort, but it helps on my Chevelle. I guess it depends on how easy it is to loosen the header bolts.

-Dave

The vertical mounting bolts for the starter are easy to remove and then the starter can be shifted around. Header bolts are a challenge.

[Maverick]

I advocate disconnecting the power from the ignition before turning over with plugs out. Will keep spark from going places it should not be

Yes, that's the plan.

[Maverick]

The insulating sleeve arrived Friday and the starter wiring was completed. A starter heat shield was fastened to the headers. The starter drive gear-to-ring gear clearance checked out OK, although the starter does sound kinda loud. Maybe the TC cover will quiet it down some. Got the fluids (gas, oil, PS, ATF, and coolant) added and turned the engine with the starter till it got oil pressure and fuel to the carb. Had to tighten the tube nuts on the carb to stop leaks there. Plugs and wires can go in now.

Went under to check for leaks and found puddles of ATF under the trans. Can't understand why a new trans pan and quality rubber pan gasket would leak so badly. Bolts were tight enough. Fortunately, the new, clean pan has a drain plug so the ATF can be drained and saved. I have another "quality", reusable, rubber pan gasket to try. Hope an inspection will reveal the problem.

None of the gauges were working initially. The gas gauge had been erratic on the trip down from NY and the clock would run intermittently. Started removing the somewhat boogered up gauge panel and found that, depending on how pressure was applied to the gauge panel, either the fuel gauge or the voltmeter would work but not both. I believe the gauge cluster connector that should be mounted solid behind the cluster is not fully engaging it's mate on the cluster. Gonna figure out some way to secure it and also its mate in the gauge cluster so they DO mate.

Broke the (85 MPH) speedometer needle off in the process. Need to also replace the clock with a tach so now I'm thinking about this. http://www.code510.com/1978-1988-chevy- ... 8c-mc.html Its expensive but it would fix three issues: 85 MPH speedo, broken speedo needle, and need for a tach. Would be an nice bunch of solutions.

Now that I know it has oil pressure, once the trans pan leak is fixed, and ATF added, it can be fired up even with the gauge cluster hanging out. Getting close.

[Maverick]

Got the trans pan sealed up by replacing the rubber gasket with a slightly thicker one and tightening the pan bolts a little tighter than they should be. The problem was the ridges between the bolt holes in the pan are so high they prevented sealing near the bolts. Think cork gasket would have worked just fine but the rubber gaskets don't compress as well.

Detached the left exhaust pipe from the header and managed to jam the plastic TC cover in place and bolted it up. In the process, found another booger!! Two of the 1/4X20 bolts for the TC cover were replaced with metal screws. Fortunately, the 1/4X20 threads in the bell housing weren't damaged too much and bolts went in OK.

Topped off the fluids, got #1 on TDC on the compression stroke, checked the position of the rotor, and installed the wires with #1 positioned to be next in the rotation. Got squirts from the accelerator pump. No start. Confirmed the spark with a spare plug and the timing light. Took a break to consider things.

After cogitating for a while, I think maybe this distributor wasn't timed at the factory. Maybe they dynoed it with one distributor and stab another in before shipment without timing it. Maybe the timing is so far off it won't run? I'd think there would be some attempt to run or kick back or fire out the pipes or carb if that's the case but maybe not. I'll give it another try tomorrow.

In twisting the dist cap around I dislodged the three (black, red and yellow) wires from the distributor from their connector. Cap is marked for C, B+ and GND. I expect red is battery + (B+), black is ground (GND), and yellow I suppose is coil (C). Just need to confirm that somehow before I reattach the wires. Do NOT want to fry the distributor or coil.

[Maverick]

Found some pictures online that suggested the red, black, and yellow wires are as I guessed so I put them back in the connector and, with some struggling, put the distributor back in with #1 "tower" at 5:30. Cranked it and, VROOOOOM. Still need to get the harmonic balancer marked so I can see some timing marks and get it timed correctly. Topped the fluids again and bled the PS system. Gotta get it off the jack stands and outdoors before I asphyxiate myself.

[TireSmoker]

WOOHOO!!! Another one fires up! Between my Blazer, your El Camino and soon Tony's Chevelle, it's gonna be a Small Block Summer on Tiresmoke..

-Dave

[Maverick]

There's some issue with timing the 383. According to the documentation for the BP engines, if the engine comes with a distributor, which mine did, the total timing has been set at the factory to 34* total. Problem is, the engine wouldn't run with the timing set by the factory. Runs great with initial timing set about 36*. No kick back on start. Mechanical advance takes the indicated timing WAY too advanced. I won't drive it that way for fear of damaging it. Have to call BP Engines next week and see what they have to say.

Anyone know if there are different SBC dampers with timing marks in different places? Don't think this shiny new balancer is spun on the rubber.

I stuck the proctoscope camera in the the number 1 spark plug hole to see if TDC could be determined and checked with TDC indicated on the balancer but couldn't work the camera, remote starter and computer display by myself and my potential helpers were not available. Maybe late next week. Would like to check that before I call BP Engines.

[TireSmoker]

Anyone know if there are different SBC dampers with timing marks in different places? Don't think this shiny new balancer is spun on the rubber.

Yes -- on most of them, the TDC pointer is somewhere around 2 o'clock when viewed from the front of the car. Tony's engine had a pointer at 12 o'clock, which was somewhat difficult to check.

Were you checking total timing with the vacuum advance disconnected? If not, 3000 RPM in park with vacuum advance hooked up would probably read in the 40-something range, which is totally safe (desirable, even) for low-load part-throttle.

-Dave

[Maverick]

Initial timing is the same with vacuum advance connected or not. Don't think I reved it with the vacuum hose disconnected.

You may have the answer! My pointers are at 2'oclock. If the balancer has the timing marks for 12 o'clock pointers, that would make things about right. If I can find TDC on #1, that should tell me if that's the problem and, if it is, a sticker with the timing marks for a 2 o'clock pointer would be a work around.

I won't worry about this timing issue so much while I'm away next week.

[TireSmoker]

Initial timing (idle timing) should be higher with vacuum advance connected. Are you using manifold vacuum or ported vacuum? Should be using manifold.

I'd still give Blueprint a call. You paid good money, something as simple as a timing pointer should be correct!

Some additional info: http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/in ... tors.1015/

-Dave

[Maverick]

Since there's no change with vacuum hose connected or not, I suppose its connected to a ported vacuum nipple. Didn't check it but left it connected like it came from the factory till I get thru the conversation with BP Engines.

The BP 383 is externally balanced so it uses a 400 balancer. Didn't measure it but I think its an 8" balancer. I will call BP Engines but hope to establish TDC before I have that conversation.

Good link! Thanks.

[Maverick]

Looks like the problem may be with Summit "Recommended Parts", not with Blueprint Engines. I now recall that the engine didn't come with a balancer. Summit recommended either of three balancers for the BP 383:

1. a summit brand, https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-161400/overview/
2. a BP brand, https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mll-bpp400/overview/
3. a Chevy Performance brand, https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal- ... /overview/

I chose the less expensive Summit balancer which apparently has timing marks that don't match the BP pointers. I'll call Summit next week and see what they have to say. If I can precisely locate TDC the easy fix would be a sticker on the balancer. I have the gadget that screws into the spark plug hole and senses the piston at the top of the stroke. Problem is, with a new, tight engine even with the plugs out, its hard to GENTLY contact the piston. I bent the bolt on the tool when trying to locate TDC on the 348 Ford engine. Depending on what Summit says, I may try that tool again.

If the BP balancer has the timing marks in the right place, that would be the better solution. Wouldn't have to locate TDC.

[TireSmoker]

Jim, I had the same problem with the TDC tool -- bent it. Here's an interesting method for finding TDC, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u2sA-q7_FtQ

-Dave