1981 El Camino

[Maverick]

The El Camino Pittman arm doesn't fit on the MC SS steering gear. MC SS spline is about 1/8" larger diameter. Sticker on the replacement steering gear indicates Summit sent the right MC SS part. I'll either have to find another Pittman arm or go back to the EC steering box. Guys on the EC Forum said this would be a straight bolt in.

[Basement Paul]

What about a Monte SS pitman arm? Or does everything go haywire at that point?

-BP

[Maverick]

I think a MC SS Pittman arm would work fine. Guys on the EC Forum assured me it was a straight bolt in but now one says he used an MC SS Pittman arm. I'm waiting for more responses to see what they suggest.

[Maverick]

Found a MC SS Pittman arm on ebay for $70 but, it said it also fit the EC??? Sent a question to the seller and got an immediate response asking for confirmation on the specifics. Replied to that and he came right back with a link to the arm that I needed. Ordered it.

New message from: kratter Top Rated Seller(32,529TurquoiseShooting Star)
Good deal. No problem. The arm you will need is in listing number 290878717984
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-PITMAN-ARM- ... 43b9b90020

Let me know if you have more questions.
Thanks,
AJ

The parts listings for the EC steering boxes show one with square top and four bolts; one with round top held in by a big snap ring. EC had the round top, MC SS box had the square top. I think the square top has the larger spline. Anyway, I think the problem is solved. It will be shipped tomorrow.

[Maverick]

The Blueprint 383 arrived early this afternoon. Ordered it Mon night; arrived Friday at 1 PM. Pretty amazing. NICE NUMBERS!!

NO debate about shift points -- HP is still climbing at 5800. FLAT torque curve.

WXO came over and we uncrated it and put it on my big dolly. Checked out a couple of things.

Starter mounting bolts are SAE. I've read that some are larger metric and if a starter is used with mounting holes for the metric bolts, special bolts with metric shanks and SAE threats must be used to keep the starter in alignment. I'll order a mini starter to get some clearance from the headers. Looking at this one. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwm- ... onte-carlo I like that it comes with bolts. If it has the larger, metric bores for the mounting bolts, the bolt shank diameter should be correct. Rated for 14:1 CR so it should be plenty strong.

Need a 2000 stall TC. Looking at this one https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hup-gm20 I've read good things about the Hughes converters and it has great reviews. I'll have to think about a trans cooler to go with the stall converter.

Ordered and have a Summit flexplate https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g104sfi Flexplate has 6 mounting holes for the TC while both the old TC and the Hughes TC only use 3. Guess that's OK.

[GMJohnny]

Christmas in February!!! Nothing like some instant gratification to make the
day!! I think your HP numbers are impressive and I'm wondering why the stall
converter isn't going to be 2,400 or 2,800 rpm.

GM

[Maverick]

With those low end torque numbers, the EC's light back end, and no slicks I don't think a higher stall would have much benefit.

The rule of thumb I've read for street cars is stall should be no more than 500 above cruise RPMs to avoid slippage and heating. I could go to 2400 but for not much advantage. With a 2000 stall, I might not need a trans cooler other than the one in the radiator. Sound right?

[Basement Paul]

I ran a 3000 stall 10" converter in my Caddy and only ran the in-radiator cooler. I ran a 160 thermostat, but it would run normally close to 180 degrees. I never had a problem and drove it everywhere. That being said, external coolers are always better, but if you're not hot lapping it, I don't think you'll have any issues. The 2400 stall sounds better and will make a noticeable difference when downshifting and passing. It will just make the car feel more responsive everywhere IMO.

Love the flat torque curve on that motor. What you've got there is a 12 second El Camino...

-BP

[Maverick]

Yeah, second thoughts got me thinking the higher stall is not just for launch. Maybe this one would be better. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hup-gm25 Reviews for 383 applications sound really good.

12 seconds might be a challenge till the 2.41 open rear end is changed. I'll try not to push it too hard in 1st gear till the 7.5 rear axle is replaced.

[Fred32v]

I like your latest converter selection, you won't regret it.
I'm sure all the guys up north are relieved. Grins.
Me thinks your building something special.

[Basement Paul]

Until you put something resembling a drag tire under that bed, you won't break that rearend. I went 12.19 with mine with no problems with 1.85 60' times. I was slightly babying it off the line, but that's under 20' with drag radials on. And the only reason I was afraid of it was the weak locking differential that comes in the later trucks. With your open diff, it will just spin. Basically, have fun and beat the crap out of it! But be prepared to replace RR tires...

-BP

[Maverick]

I went 12.19 with mine with no problems with 1.85 60' times.

THAT is IMPRESSIVEf!! What ratio? I gotta get it done!

[Basement Paul]

That's the rearend that's going into Smoker's Blazer which is a 3.42, 7.5" ring. I expect if I pushed it off the line, it would have gone 1.65 60'. Not sure if it would have put up with too much of that abuse. The locking portion of that rearend is good, but is known to be the weak point as the power levels get significantly higher. In Dave's Blazer, it will last forever.

-BP

[Maverick]

Been ordering so much stuff from Summit Citi Visa called with a fraud alert. Got everything on the way I can think of except ATF and belts. Currently running 0.41" wide belts but the look to be too small for the pulleys. Found one 7/16" but not the other two.

Cleaned up and painted the PS bracket and pulley and got them mounted on the rebuilt pump. No biggie but its fun to take a nasty part and make it look good.

Did a test fit on the replacement G-Force X-member. Looks good!! Hope the trans mount comes out in the right place. Jacked the driver side floor up 1/4" to get 1/8" clearance. Takes a different trans mount -- ordered a poly mount from G-Force.

The Pittman arm is supposed to come today so I'll probably install the rebuilt steering box tomorrow.

2500 stall converter, mini starter, etc., etc., etc. are on the way.

[Maverick]

Got the steering box installed this AM and am now waiting on more parts. Got a chance to use my 3/4" drive metric socket set for the second time. (Bought the set to work on the suspension and steering on the F150 from AZ.) The Pittman arm nut is a big metric size.

TC, etc., is out for delivery today so the engine & trans could go together tomorrow. Only thing I can think of to do, till more parts arrive, is clean up and paint the water pump from the 350. It looks like it was replaced not long ago so it will be reused. Looks like the hoses were replaced when the water pump was changed so they also will be reused.

Bought a small electric winch from Walt's Tool Supply. Lightly used (by me) to pull the Beetle up the incline in the shed. It replaced a garage door opener that drove a winch to pull the boat and vehicles up the incline into the garage. The plastic gear in the garage door opener finally gave up after years of abuse. The plastic gear was overload protection so the garage wall wouldn't get pulled in. That's my story and I'm stickin' to it. Got the winch installed but haven't used it yet.