The left rear trailing arm is off, including the caliper and strut rod. I have removed the bushing from the trailing arm without wrecking the outer casings. Both rear brake hoses have been replaced.
I am now working on the right side trailing arm. I had a tough time getting the brake line out of the caliper - the nut was stuck on the brake line. As a last ditch effort I put some heat on it and I grabbed the line with pliers and turned the nut - and finally it broke free. So I save some money not having to buy new brake lines.
There is another order of parts on the way.
Putting the new bushings in the trailing arm might require a special tool as you need to flare the sleeve that goes through the bushing at both ends to hold the shell on each side.
I need to start putting more time in if I want to drive it soon...
[edit]
Later that night the other trailing arm came out and the trailing arm bushing is out also. It went much faster this time.
I noticed one of the rear caliper pistons is damp with brake fluid. Argh. I have to decide about a rebuild or buy a replacement.
I also have to decide if I am going to paint these suspension parts now that they are out.
1975 Corvette
Moderators: MostMint, wxo, Fred32v, Basement Paul, ttamrettus
6/12/07
Took off the other rear strut rod and removed the bushings from them.
Cleaned the water pump inlet.
Started removing the front sway bar bushings, distracted by Cavs game
6/13/07
Ordered caliper rebuild kit for the rear caliper
Finished changing the bushings for the front sway bar.
Grease the front end. One of the lower ball joints would not take grease. Changed the fitting to no avail. Used small screwdriver to remove some very dried up/pasty grease from the cavity, then was able to put grease in it. Ball joints look like they could use new seals.
One of the six bolts for the bumper to frame brackets was loose enough the washer would rattle. Took a socket to it and it tightened down with no problem.
6/14/07
Still packages have not arrived. UPS tracking says they were shipped to front porch, but I don't think so. Check with several neighbors and start inquiring with UPS and Corvette Central.
6/15/07
UPS is going to check with the driver, Corvette Central won't resend until UPS inquiry is over in 1-8 business days. Yikes.
Picked up caliper rebuild kit.
Later this day the packages showed up. Neighbor about 6 doors down got them and were on vacation until today.
6/17/07
Install new left front brake hose, new thermostat and gasket, new upper and lower radiator hose. "Adjusted" the fuel line so it clears the new lower hose. Lower hose looks much better than the old one though as it does not come near the fuel pump.
Watch the suspension video I bought (probably worth the $20).
Look at the polyurethane trailing arm bushings I bought. They do not match the stock configuration, but they also do not require the special tool to install. I have to decide about them.
6/18/07
Decide I am going with the bushings I bought. Start cleaning the opening where the bushing goes as I discovered a lot of dried up rubber sticking inside there.
6/21/07
Can't bring myself to install the trailing arms without cleaning them up. Scrape off some of the undercoating and wire wheel the rest. Give the entire assembly a good once over with the wire wheel. Put some black primer and "semi-flat" Krylon black on them. Not as nice as a full restore but they look a lot better than before.
Start the heater core hose install. Had to leaf through manuals to find the proper hose routing (I doubted next to the header was the correct routing). With pre-formed hoses, I figure I should be able to get them routed correctly.
Took off the other rear strut rod and removed the bushings from them.
Cleaned the water pump inlet.
Started removing the front sway bar bushings, distracted by Cavs game
6/13/07
Ordered caliper rebuild kit for the rear caliper
Finished changing the bushings for the front sway bar.
Grease the front end. One of the lower ball joints would not take grease. Changed the fitting to no avail. Used small screwdriver to remove some very dried up/pasty grease from the cavity, then was able to put grease in it. Ball joints look like they could use new seals.
One of the six bolts for the bumper to frame brackets was loose enough the washer would rattle. Took a socket to it and it tightened down with no problem.
6/14/07
Still packages have not arrived. UPS tracking says they were shipped to front porch, but I don't think so. Check with several neighbors and start inquiring with UPS and Corvette Central.
6/15/07
UPS is going to check with the driver, Corvette Central won't resend until UPS inquiry is over in 1-8 business days. Yikes.
Picked up caliper rebuild kit.
Later this day the packages showed up. Neighbor about 6 doors down got them and were on vacation until today.
6/17/07
Install new left front brake hose, new thermostat and gasket, new upper and lower radiator hose. "Adjusted" the fuel line so it clears the new lower hose. Lower hose looks much better than the old one though as it does not come near the fuel pump.
Watch the suspension video I bought (probably worth the $20).
Look at the polyurethane trailing arm bushings I bought. They do not match the stock configuration, but they also do not require the special tool to install. I have to decide about them.
6/18/07
Decide I am going with the bushings I bought. Start cleaning the opening where the bushing goes as I discovered a lot of dried up rubber sticking inside there.
6/21/07
Can't bring myself to install the trailing arms without cleaning them up. Scrape off some of the undercoating and wire wheel the rest. Give the entire assembly a good once over with the wire wheel. Put some black primer and "semi-flat" Krylon black on them. Not as nice as a full restore but they look a lot better than before.
Start the heater core hose install. Had to leaf through manuals to find the proper hose routing (I doubted next to the header was the correct routing). With pre-formed hoses, I figure I should be able to get them routed correctly.
[quote="Basement Paul"]Is that a mint rocketship on the hood?? :shock:
-BP[/quote]
-BP[/quote]
6/23/07
Completed heater core hose install. Put the new cap on the overflow reservoir and put a new hose inside so it will actually pull water in the radiator when it cools off.
Installed the new bushings in trailing arms. Went to install them and found the hole in the sleeve is too small for the bolt. Tried a couple local parts stores but no one has the part, some could not even look it up! Have to contact the vendor on Monday.
6/26/07
Yesterday vendor said I had to drill out the sleeve. Thanks for nothin. Bought a 7/16 bit. Went to remove the sleeve - decided to use the bolt to drive it out. One whack on the bolt with a rubber mallet and it went right in! On closer inspection I found a small bulge in the bolt just above the threads. Cleaned it off with a flat file, took wire wheel to the rest of the bolt and now it fits. Also started by attaching the trailing arms with the now fitting bolts.
6/28/07
Ordered the bushings for the strut rods yesterday.
Cleaned up the strut rods and straightened them. All the pictures I see show them straight, but mine were bowed. The pic below shows one before straightening and the other after straightening.
7/12/07
Finished cleaning and painting the suspension parts I removed in the rear. New strut rod bushings arrived. Took a hiatus to get ready for and sell at Canfield. Put new bushings in the strut rods.
Started the install process on the left side. Half shaft with new retaining clips and strut rod installed. Camber adjustment roughed in. Will finish toe in adjustment tonight.
7/14/07
Finished left side last night. Today worked on right side. I need more shims to get the loading right on the right side trailing arm bushing. This side much easier due to experience. Just a little more work and it will be done.
Cleaned the steel brake lines (hose to caliper in the back has a short steel line) with the wire wheel. They look good.
I started on the calipers - cleaning and started disassembly on one of them.
Put the radiator fluid in too.
7/15/07
Right rear caliper has been rebuilt. The biggest challenge was getting the new seal into the sleeve. The instructions I found online were using an oring seal - but the Raybestos kit has a lip on the seal, so it was tough to get it to fit into the sleeve. I fashioned a poor man's piston ring compressor with a piece of a windshield washer bottle and a hose clamp.
Finished cleaning parts, painted the brake lines, ran a tap on the bolt holes on the trailing arms when the bolts did not thread in easily, installed calipers and brake lines on the car.
Also installed the exhaust on the car.
7/16/07
Used my new power bleeder to bleed the brakes. It worked great but if you get one always make sure you have enough brake fluid (maybe two quarts), and try to catch the drain off once you clear the old fluid out of the lines. You need about 12 PSI to get the air to come out. Tested the pedal - it felt good, but after the pedal test I saw the caliper I rebuilt was leaking from two of the four pistons. Succesfully bled the rear without getting brake fluid on the newly painted suspension parts. Sounds easy til you see the rear calipers have two bleeders. Used a hose that came with the bleeder.
7/18/07
Discovered left front also leaking at the hose to brake line connection. Tightened it up to stop the leak. Bought another rebuild kit and re-rebuilt the two leaky pistons. You have to be careful to get the seal seated against the piston, and tucking the lip into the sleeve when installing the piston. This time no leaks.
Need to tighten exhaust clamps, maybe rebleed the left front and also put on tires.
Completed heater core hose install. Put the new cap on the overflow reservoir and put a new hose inside so it will actually pull water in the radiator when it cools off.
Installed the new bushings in trailing arms. Went to install them and found the hole in the sleeve is too small for the bolt. Tried a couple local parts stores but no one has the part, some could not even look it up! Have to contact the vendor on Monday.
6/26/07
Yesterday vendor said I had to drill out the sleeve. Thanks for nothin. Bought a 7/16 bit. Went to remove the sleeve - decided to use the bolt to drive it out. One whack on the bolt with a rubber mallet and it went right in! On closer inspection I found a small bulge in the bolt just above the threads. Cleaned it off with a flat file, took wire wheel to the rest of the bolt and now it fits. Also started by attaching the trailing arms with the now fitting bolts.
6/28/07
Ordered the bushings for the strut rods yesterday.
Cleaned up the strut rods and straightened them. All the pictures I see show them straight, but mine were bowed. The pic below shows one before straightening and the other after straightening.
7/12/07
Finished cleaning and painting the suspension parts I removed in the rear. New strut rod bushings arrived. Took a hiatus to get ready for and sell at Canfield. Put new bushings in the strut rods.
Started the install process on the left side. Half shaft with new retaining clips and strut rod installed. Camber adjustment roughed in. Will finish toe in adjustment tonight.
7/14/07
Finished left side last night. Today worked on right side. I need more shims to get the loading right on the right side trailing arm bushing. This side much easier due to experience. Just a little more work and it will be done.
Cleaned the steel brake lines (hose to caliper in the back has a short steel line) with the wire wheel. They look good.
I started on the calipers - cleaning and started disassembly on one of them.
Put the radiator fluid in too.
7/15/07
Right rear caliper has been rebuilt. The biggest challenge was getting the new seal into the sleeve. The instructions I found online were using an oring seal - but the Raybestos kit has a lip on the seal, so it was tough to get it to fit into the sleeve. I fashioned a poor man's piston ring compressor with a piece of a windshield washer bottle and a hose clamp.
Finished cleaning parts, painted the brake lines, ran a tap on the bolt holes on the trailing arms when the bolts did not thread in easily, installed calipers and brake lines on the car.
Also installed the exhaust on the car.
7/16/07
Used my new power bleeder to bleed the brakes. It worked great but if you get one always make sure you have enough brake fluid (maybe two quarts), and try to catch the drain off once you clear the old fluid out of the lines. You need about 12 PSI to get the air to come out. Tested the pedal - it felt good, but after the pedal test I saw the caliper I rebuilt was leaking from two of the four pistons. Succesfully bled the rear without getting brake fluid on the newly painted suspension parts. Sounds easy til you see the rear calipers have two bleeders. Used a hose that came with the bleeder.
7/18/07
Discovered left front also leaking at the hose to brake line connection. Tightened it up to stop the leak. Bought another rebuild kit and re-rebuilt the two leaky pistons. You have to be careful to get the seal seated against the piston, and tucking the lip into the sleeve when installing the piston. This time no leaks.
Need to tighten exhaust clamps, maybe rebleed the left front and also put on tires.
Last edited by MostMint on Mon Aug 13, 2007 12:32 pm, edited 1 time in total.
[quote="Basement Paul"]Is that a mint rocketship on the hood?? :shock:
-BP[/quote]
-BP[/quote]
-
ttamrettus
- Posts: 887
- Joined: Tue Jul 19, 2005 6:59 pm
- Location: on the edge
thanks Matt.
Adding correct rims and a little time with the power buffer went a long way toward making this car look good. Also putting the emblem on the front, lisc plate bracket, and the antenna mast help make it look more complete.
Got the 4-wheel alignment yesterday and the steering wheel is now straight when the car is straight.
Hooked up the vacuum for the insde vents but while testing it I had a problem with the starter. It won't even click. I'll check into it soon.
Adding correct rims and a little time with the power buffer went a long way toward making this car look good. Also putting the emblem on the front, lisc plate bracket, and the antenna mast help make it look more complete.
Got the 4-wheel alignment yesterday and the steering wheel is now straight when the car is straight.
Hooked up the vacuum for the insde vents but while testing it I had a problem with the starter. It won't even click. I'll check into it soon.
[quote="Basement Paul"]Is that a mint rocketship on the hood?? :shock:
-BP[/quote]
-BP[/quote]
7/28/07
Ran a bunch of tests and determined the starter itself was the culprit. I can't explain exactly what killed it but for $40 for a new one I did not waste a lot of time figuring it out. Install was uneventful.
Also took the time to reattach an exhaust hanger to the back fo the tranny. The bolts had backed out but it was so tight they would not fall out (they hit the tranny mount which stopped them). I noticed because the thing would rattle each time I closed the door. Could barely reach between the bracket and the crossmember to start the threads. Try lining up a bolt to start the threads with an end wrench and a screwdriver to apply light pressure...
Also looked into power steering leak - but I cannot locate it yet. Cleaned off the control valve to see if I could trace the fluid trail.
Good news is the heater controls appear to be working. Still need to test defrost.
7/30/07 - replaced the master cylinder. Monkeyed around trying to isolate the leak but yesterday it was clearly leaking out the bottom. this is a replacement part on the one I installed two years ago - cashing in on the lifetime warranty.
Pretty sure I know the problem with power steering leak so I ordered the rebuild kit.
8/1/07 Drove it to work today. Has a squeaky belt - appears to be squeaking over 2800 RPM. Otherwise uneventful (besides the fact that I am driving a Corvette to work!) Later that night I tightened the belt and put one of the front inner splash guards on and tightened the belt. Took it around the block and blew out the heater core.
Took about two hours to disassemble on 8/2, installed the new one 8/4. I still have to put the rest of the dash back together but it is on the road again. Also bled the master cylinder and the parts showed up.
8/7/07 - update
While the dash was apart the last few days I took the opportunity to watch the vacuum operated controls work. Found a problem with one of the flaps, it had a plastic part that had broken and was not allowing the door to close all the way. I could not find the part in the catalog so I fabricated a fix (pics to follow). Now the defrost puts air through the tops vents to the front window as it should. I also took the time to make sure the ducts line up better with the dash.
Also fixed the leaks near the simulated vents behind the rear window.
Yikes, also discovered I have well over $2000 in parts put into this car so far.
Ran a bunch of tests and determined the starter itself was the culprit. I can't explain exactly what killed it but for $40 for a new one I did not waste a lot of time figuring it out. Install was uneventful.
Also took the time to reattach an exhaust hanger to the back fo the tranny. The bolts had backed out but it was so tight they would not fall out (they hit the tranny mount which stopped them). I noticed because the thing would rattle each time I closed the door. Could barely reach between the bracket and the crossmember to start the threads. Try lining up a bolt to start the threads with an end wrench and a screwdriver to apply light pressure...
Also looked into power steering leak - but I cannot locate it yet. Cleaned off the control valve to see if I could trace the fluid trail.
Good news is the heater controls appear to be working. Still need to test defrost.
7/30/07 - replaced the master cylinder. Monkeyed around trying to isolate the leak but yesterday it was clearly leaking out the bottom. this is a replacement part on the one I installed two years ago - cashing in on the lifetime warranty.
Pretty sure I know the problem with power steering leak so I ordered the rebuild kit.
8/1/07 Drove it to work today. Has a squeaky belt - appears to be squeaking over 2800 RPM. Otherwise uneventful (besides the fact that I am driving a Corvette to work!) Later that night I tightened the belt and put one of the front inner splash guards on and tightened the belt. Took it around the block and blew out the heater core.
Took about two hours to disassemble on 8/2, installed the new one 8/4. I still have to put the rest of the dash back together but it is on the road again. Also bled the master cylinder and the parts showed up.
8/7/07 - update
While the dash was apart the last few days I took the opportunity to watch the vacuum operated controls work. Found a problem with one of the flaps, it had a plastic part that had broken and was not allowing the door to close all the way. I could not find the part in the catalog so I fabricated a fix (pics to follow). Now the defrost puts air through the tops vents to the front window as it should. I also took the time to make sure the ducts line up better with the dash.
Also fixed the leaks near the simulated vents behind the rear window.
Yikes, also discovered I have well over $2000 in parts put into this car so far.
8/11/07
Fixed the "door ajar" light. The passenger side switch was too far in the door so closing the door would not quite trip the switch. I just gently pulled it out so it matched the driver side and the problem is fixed.
8/12/07
Completed the rebuild of the power steering control valve. It's not that complicated, but I think I would take digital pictures during disassembly to make sure it all goes back together the same way. The Haynes book had a lenghty description but did not have pictures of all the little parts in the valve so it was hard to tell what was what. The instructions that came with it were helpful, but the copy was not that good so it was hard to tell which way some of the small parts were supposed to go on. After the rebuild the assists a little more than it should going to the right than the left, but there is an adjustment for that so I'll tweak it tonight. Also the steering wheel is not quite straight again. Something in the rebuild changed the center position slightly.
Also tightened the alternator belt again. Looks to be a little too much free play in the belt. There is something odd about the top bracket - it moves as you pry to tighten. Maybe the Corvette alternator has a different bolt pattern than std GM, but the std one kinda works.
Replaced the passenger side splash guard on the inner fender well.
Started looking at fixing the passenger window - it is too far forward on the door and does not close properly.
8/13
Put the air cleaner to hood seal on and the L48 plate on the center console - not much time for more.
8/15
Changed the carb to the correct numbers matching carb. Started right up. Made a few adjustments and it runs really well so far.
Adjusted the power steering control valve, made two small adjustments and the sterring now seems even between left and right.
Changed the directional flasher - the left side was intermittently not working. It is located under the dash on the passenger side.
Yikes not much time to make more changes before Carlisle
Fixed the "door ajar" light. The passenger side switch was too far in the door so closing the door would not quite trip the switch. I just gently pulled it out so it matched the driver side and the problem is fixed.
8/12/07
Completed the rebuild of the power steering control valve. It's not that complicated, but I think I would take digital pictures during disassembly to make sure it all goes back together the same way. The Haynes book had a lenghty description but did not have pictures of all the little parts in the valve so it was hard to tell what was what. The instructions that came with it were helpful, but the copy was not that good so it was hard to tell which way some of the small parts were supposed to go on. After the rebuild the assists a little more than it should going to the right than the left, but there is an adjustment for that so I'll tweak it tonight. Also the steering wheel is not quite straight again. Something in the rebuild changed the center position slightly.
Also tightened the alternator belt again. Looks to be a little too much free play in the belt. There is something odd about the top bracket - it moves as you pry to tighten. Maybe the Corvette alternator has a different bolt pattern than std GM, but the std one kinda works.
Replaced the passenger side splash guard on the inner fender well.
Started looking at fixing the passenger window - it is too far forward on the door and does not close properly.
8/13
Put the air cleaner to hood seal on and the L48 plate on the center console - not much time for more.
8/15
Changed the carb to the correct numbers matching carb. Started right up. Made a few adjustments and it runs really well so far.
Adjusted the power steering control valve, made two small adjustments and the sterring now seems even between left and right.
Changed the directional flasher - the left side was intermittently not working. It is located under the dash on the passenger side.
Yikes not much time to make more changes before Carlisle
[quote="Basement Paul"]Is that a mint rocketship on the hood?? :shock:
-BP[/quote]
-BP[/quote]
-
Basement Paul
- Posts: 3382
- Joined: Sun Jul 17, 2005 9:27 pm
- Location: In the dirt.
Good call - I've been driving it three times a week since the first of the month. Not quite sure how to make sure no new ones come up though.Basement Paul wrote:I think I'd start driving it a lot between now and next weekend to make sure all your fixes hold up and make sure no new ones pop up.
-BP
Oh and I just bought my space at Carlisle. I'll be in the car corral in CA105. My pass gets the car into the car corral, and me and a guest on the grounds for all 3 days.
[quote="Basement Paul"]Is that a mint rocketship on the hood?? :shock:
-BP[/quote]
-BP[/quote]
-
Basement Paul
- Posts: 3382
- Joined: Sun Jul 17, 2005 9:27 pm
- Location: In the dirt.
Latest upgrades from Carlisle trip
Well I was not planning on leather, but for $300, I figured why not
$20 of trim rings made the car fit in a little better
$20 of trim rings made the car fit in a little better
[quote="Basement Paul"]Is that a mint rocketship on the hood?? :shock:
-BP[/quote]
-BP[/quote]
Update:
What I did not mention here is that I had some type of problem with fuel supply on the Vette. On the way back from Carlisle I was losing power, particularly going up hill. After that I noticed I could stay on the gas a while but then it would start missing. It felt a lot like it was running out of gas.
Afte I got back from Carlisle I put the old carb back on to no avail.
By then I was tired of working on it so it sat.
BP's drive to go racing finally got me back into action on the Vette.
So I decided it was a fuel supply issue and changed the fuel pump. I guessed the one I bought must be defective - it has a low pressure return line so I surmised whatever regulates the pressure was failing. So I put the old pump back in (I had changed it the first time trying to fix a problem that was in the ignition). In the meantime the old pump must have gone bad since it would not build pressure.
My Autozone pump was out of warranty so I could not exchange it. After searching around I found no other auto store in town had one in stock so I bought another. I put it in last night and checked the pressure. Now 7 psi or more.
To my dismay, the problem continued. I switched the coil from the T/A into it, no help either.
At this point I thought maybe my fuel filter (less than 2000 miles) must have a problem. I took it out and the problem was cured.
Further inspection found a small stringy piece of silicone in the back side of the check valve. I can only guess it was blocking the valve from opening all the way.
I am sad it took this long but quite pleased that the cam lobe for the fuel pump was not worn out.
What I did not mention here is that I had some type of problem with fuel supply on the Vette. On the way back from Carlisle I was losing power, particularly going up hill. After that I noticed I could stay on the gas a while but then it would start missing. It felt a lot like it was running out of gas.
Afte I got back from Carlisle I put the old carb back on to no avail.
By then I was tired of working on it so it sat.
BP's drive to go racing finally got me back into action on the Vette.
So I decided it was a fuel supply issue and changed the fuel pump. I guessed the one I bought must be defective - it has a low pressure return line so I surmised whatever regulates the pressure was failing. So I put the old pump back in (I had changed it the first time trying to fix a problem that was in the ignition). In the meantime the old pump must have gone bad since it would not build pressure.
My Autozone pump was out of warranty so I could not exchange it. After searching around I found no other auto store in town had one in stock so I bought another. I put it in last night and checked the pressure. Now 7 psi or more.
To my dismay, the problem continued. I switched the coil from the T/A into it, no help either.
At this point I thought maybe my fuel filter (less than 2000 miles) must have a problem. I took it out and the problem was cured.
Further inspection found a small stringy piece of silicone in the back side of the check valve. I can only guess it was blocking the valve from opening all the way.
I am sad it took this long but quite pleased that the cam lobe for the fuel pump was not worn out.
[quote="Basement Paul"]Is that a mint rocketship on the hood?? :shock:
-BP[/quote]
-BP[/quote]
Update: Last night I put the #matching carb back on with the same fuel filter (minus silicon stringy garbage), and put the coil that came with it back in. It was raining so I took a test drive tonight. The carb is good and so is the fuel filter. The Vette is ready to give all it can. Pretty sad it can't spin the wheels from a dead stop but I still think it can make mid 15's with the right weather.
[quote="Basement Paul"]Is that a mint rocketship on the hood?? :shock:
-BP[/quote]
-BP[/quote]