1978 Lincoln Continental Coupe

[Maverick]

According to Carl, that mess is nothing to get excited about. "That's what a cam bearing looks like when it fails. There are lots of reasons for cam bearing failures, don't jump to the conclusion of worst case." His advice is to replace the bearing and check the new cam carefully when its installed. If cam rotation is silky smooth there won't be a problem. Its worth a try.

New Clevite cam bearings are ordered from Summit. I'll think about things over the weekend.

One option, a stroker short block by Carl, isn't likely. He's backed up a couple of months on engine builds.

[Basement Paul]

I'm going out on a limb here, but I'm guessing that car spent a good amount of time sitting around during it's life. Dry start ups can be pretty brutal on motors. Just one theory.

Are you going to check rod bearings while it's out? After looking at the cam bearings, it might be worth checking.

Good luck.

-BP

[Maverick]

I'm learning how to get good pictures with the camera on a flexible shaft, aka rectoscope.

2nd - 5th cam bearings look pretty good except for some small gouges in bearing #3. It looks like some fragments may have gone thru the oil system and gotten into that bearing. If so, probably others too.

#2:



#3:



#4



#5



Still mulling the situation over.

[Maverick]

I'm going out on a limb here, but I'm guessing that car spent a good amount of time sitting around during it's life. Dry start ups can be pretty brutal on motors. Just one theory.

Are you going to check rod bearings while it's out? After looking at the cam bearings, it might be worth checking.

Good luck.

-BP

Probably. This evening I'm feeling like the right course would be to do a complete tear down and get the block hot tanked, oil passages cleaned, freeze plugs, cam bearings, rings and bearings. Or, maybe go for a stroker kit. According to Carl, standard sized pistons aren't readily available for stroking (ie, they're expensive) so it would have to be bored too.

The first time I drove the Maverick with the rebuilt 302 I wished it had been stroked. Would have been less expensive to do the 347 the first time around. Is there a lesson here? I'm going to sleep on it for a couple of nights.

[Basement Paul]

That's one of the things that kept me from stroking the Caddy, was having to get it bored out too. NOBODY made them in std size, and a custom set was almost $800 I believe. If you go stroker, I'd recommend a compression increase too. I guess I'd recommend a compression increase either way. 9.75-1 is way better than 8.5 (I'm guessing that's where you are stock) and still easy to feed on the street.

-BP

[Maverick]

Right. The stock compression was only 8:1. Using the stock short block with the 75cc Edelbrock heads gets it to 9.1 or so, which should be good for 87 octane.

If its stroked, there'll have to be a plan for the short block that would get a target CR, selected with Carl's input. Depending on the rods and pistons, it might need decking.

Its too bad Carl is backed up 2 months on his engine builds. I'd like to use his 460 experience to make the plan to be executed by the local machine shop. Don't know if that's feasible or not. For a stroker, this is the short block I'd get from Carl if he wasn't backed up.

Street Brawler Short Block $2999.00

http://www.carsbycarl.com/images/107-3_k6pr.jpg

-Choice of 501 to 557 cubic inch displacement
-Internal and external balance available
-Fully prepped factory block (checked for cracks, bored, honed and decked)
-Rotating assembly balanced
-All critical clearances checked and set
-Nodular iron crankshaft
-4340 H-beam rods with ARP8740 bolts
-Icon or Probe forged pistons (flat top or dish)
-Moly rings
-King main bearings
-King rod bearings
-King cam bearings
-Custom options available

The first test will be to see if the cam will install OK with the new bearing. If it will, I'd be confident using the block. If it won't, ????

[Maverick]

While I'm waiting for the new cam bearings (estimated delivery is Tuesday) I decided to remove the front cam bearing, reinsert the old cam, and measure the gap where the bearing was. The cam fits snuggly, maybe TOO snuggly, in the four remaining bearings. No wiggle with the missing front bearing.

Numbered drills were inserted in the gap to determine if the cam was centered or offset in the hole. It is offset by about .020".

In the narrowest part of the gap a #55 drill (.052") is a tiny bit loose -- I put it at .053". In the widest part of the gap a #49 drill (.073") fits snuggly.



The cam was rotated 180 degrees to see if the gap moved with the cam. It doesn't. I interpret that to mean the offset is due to the block, not the cam.

Not making any conclusions till I install the new bearing and try to install the cam. I'm using the old cam to preserve my PRESUMED right to exchange it for one appropriate to a stroker in case that happens.

[Maverick]

Carl offered a 418 stroker short block he'd built for himself. Haven't given him an answer yet.

Took the wasted cam bearing to Boyette's machine shop to see what they had to say about the bearing and the uneven (.053"-.073") gap. They suggested I disassemble the short block and bring it down for them to check out. Like Carl, they were not too concerned about the cam tunnel. They hone them straight.

Got it all disassembled today. The bearings are not in as good condition as I expected. After looking at them I definitely want new rings and bearings installed.

Cam bearings are still expected to be delivered tomorrow. Then, everything will be dropped off at Boyette's on Wednesday and they'll let me know what should be done to the block. I'm hoping they can get the cam fitted and, if they can, the freshened short block and top end kit should make a good engine.

Carl says the 514 short block with the top end kit I have should make 550 HP and 600 lbs of torque. I'd be concerned ( gotta have something ) about the .080" over bore and 600 lbs of torque on the stock C6 and torque converter. We'll see ...

[Maverick]

Dropped the disassembled short block and new cam and cam bearings off at Boyette's. Also called Carl and got the approximate cost of a stroker kit. Lots of options to select like pistons, crank, CI, CR, but all come out to about the same price for the kit: $1700 with shipping.

Additional machine shop cost to stroke would be $200 to bore (no standard pistons available for stroker). I don't think any relief of the block is required, but if it is, I'd do it.

Cost of rings and bearings (about $150) can be subtracted since those are included with the stroker kit.

The difference between stroked and not stroked is about $1750.

I'll probably have the cost for a standard bore rebuild by next week and it'll be decision time.

I've been ATTEMPTING to reroute the brake line for the right front and having lots of problems. Inverted flare messed up when the die went crooked. There were supposed to be 2 couplings in a package but only had one. Long tube nuts don't engage the couplings very far. etc, etc, etc. I should replace the whole steel line with the nice, soft alloy line that makes beautiful inverted flares. May have to.

[Maverick]

Got 'er done!!

I know it should have been no big deal but this re-routed brake line has be a bunch of problems so I feel like something has been accomplished. I used this http://www.summitracing.com/parts/urr-br-ez100 and I love it. All the bends except the short radius end bends were done free hand. It bends easily and doesn't kink. Bending was the easy part. Getting the right fittings and well-made flares were the problems. Next time will be easier.

The attempt to cut, re-route, flare, and reconnect the old line with a coupling was abandoned. The whole line from the distribution block/proportioning valve to the RF caliper was replaced with the E-Z Bend tubing. The old line was removed and the new one bent and taped a couple inches at a time till they matched.






Thought three was AMPLE length when a piece was cut from the coil but there was only about 3" extra. WHEW!!! I was VERY happy I didn't have to start over with a longer piece.



Right side headed for the caliper.



Left side headed for the proportioning valve.



And, made it to the proportioning valve.



Wife, Lois, helped me bleed just the right front and it got a pedal. It'll have to be checked again when the engine is running. Power brake is powered by the PS pump. Hydraboost or something like that??

I still have to make new rerouted transmission cooler lines but that will be easier with lots fewer bends and maybe no flares, just rubber hose for connections. Did that on the F100 with no big issues. Have to wait till the engine and trans are reinstalled to do that.

[Maverick]

Emailed Broader Performance to ask if their valve body http://www.broaderperformance.com/ford- ... body-.html would provide firmer, but not severe, shifts and if a stock converter would hold up to the expected 450-500 HP and 500-550 ft-lbs at the flywheel. Answers were "yes" for the valve body and "no" for the converter. Then asked for their recommendation for a converter but haven't gotten that answer yet.

The newly painted converter that came in the Lincoln has a painted "CVC 2-12", indicating a converter by Consolidated Vehicle Converters http://cvcconverters.com/ in Kettering, Ohio. Called them to see if they could tell me the specs and learned that CVC 2-12 is just a manufacture date. But, they only make one converter for the BBF and its stock stall and strength. Looks like a new converter is required. I'll see what Broader Performance recommends and also ask Carl what he suggests.

[Maverick]

Since one piston, rings, and bearings have to be replaced and the crank needs work I decided to order a stroker kit from Carl. Did it today.

. Forged I-beam rods with ARP bolts
. Eagle 4.3 crank
. ICON Pistons +.030
. King rod and main bearings

That gives 521 CI with 9.5:1 CR and is expected to produce 532 HP @ 5000 RPM and 590 ft-lbs torque at 3500 RPM.

The Maverick had 274 RWHP and weighed 3000#: 3000/274=10.95 lb/HP

For the Lincoln, maybe 425 RWHP and 4600 #: 4600/425=10.82 lb/HP.

[Basement Paul]

Yeah, but your torque is up proportionally to the Mavericks by a bunch I'd guess. I think you need to be at least a 2400 stall which would put you in an 11" converter. Any lower than that and you'd be having a hard time dialing in a carb IMO.

Should be pretty badass...

-BP

[Maverick]

Your minimum is right at the maximum if stall speed is to be at least 500 RPM below cruise RPMs. Cruise RPM should be about 2900 with 3.25 gears.

I know what you're saying about dialing in the carb. The Maverick had that problem untill the 2400 stall converter was installed. It just didn't want to idle below about 900 RPM and the first converter dropped curb idle 200 RPM when in gear. With the first converter it would load up when sitting at a light. The higher stall made a huge improvement when idling or putting thru the neighborhood.

According to their tech, the Broader Performance 12" converter http://www.broaderperformance.com/ford- ... ilot-.html is supposed to be customizable up to 2200-2400 stall (although the catalog says up to 2200).

All the info they wanted to customize a TC was submitted in an email this afternoon. We'll see what they say. I'd like to stay with the 12" since it'll be easier to cool. A trans cooler we picked up at a JY (out of an F150, I think) is going to fit nicely behind the grille.

I'm skeptical about the engine dyno numbers from the 347 builder: 425 peak HP @ 5700 and 418 peak Ft Lbs @ 4400 RPM. That seems like a lot for the 347.

Carl's calculator says 532 HP @ 5000 RPM and 590 ft-lbs at 3500 RPM.

Comparing these soft 347 vs 521 numbers says:

. 25% higher HP (532/425)
. 41% higher torque (590/418)

I think the 521's torque curve will be flatter. Peak HP at 5000 RPM, will rarely be seen.

Just for context, the Lincoln is 53% (4600/3000) heavier than the Maverick.

I'll be eager to put it on a chassis dyno and run the 1/8th mile.

Is anyone predicting 1/8 mile ET and MPH? With current 2.75 gears? With 3.25 gears?

[Basement Paul]

Back to the torque converter thing... I ran a 10" converter in the Caddy AND the Trans Am, with nothing but the stock cooler built into the radiator and I drove my stuff ALL OVER the place. These were 3000 stalls with 3.50 and 3.73 gears respectively. I never had any overheating issues, trans problems, burnt fluid, etc. And both of those cars were not driven lightly, even when it was hot outside. If you're running an aftermarket cooler, cooling won't be a problem. I like the smaller converter because it carries less fluid, has less rotating mass, and makes the engine more responsive under normal driving.

A 10" converter might be a little steep for what you're trying to accomplish, but 11" might be a better compromise. Keep in mind, with all your torque, you're going to be on the high end of the stall speed numbers. I used to brake the Caddy to 3200, where the T/A was around 2850rpms, and they both had the exact same converter in them. Also, if you buy a good converter, driving around town will not be at the stall speed. The Caddy would drive around 40 mph streets at 2200rpms, no problem, until you stabbed it.

-BP