So there's been a bunch of happenings/progress that I haven't gotten around to posting about until now.. including the first drives around the block, and (spoiler) an unsuccessful first test-n-tune at Thompson.
First test drive..
Chris and I thought the clunking was related to an un-needed bracket on the 8.8 rear hitting on the Malibu frame (that knocking/rapping sound) and we trimmed that down. The next lap around the block (not in video) and it seemed to be gone.
That led up to taking it out to Kuhnle for a test-n-tune Saturday Sept 30. Steve Jr was super cool and let me borrow his trailer after there were no uhauls available within 20 miles of my house. So, I loaded it up and headed out there on Saturday morning.
Unfortunately, I ran into an all-too-familiar issue -- crank signal. That was something I just wasn't really prepared to deal with. This car successfully ran on the dyno and down the track to 6000 rpm with no issues. That day (and probably during the test drives), I was feeling/seeing signal dropout in the datalog. Couldn't really get past 5000-5100 rpm under load. Because of all the issues the prior month dealing with the same thing on the Porsche, I was just kinda mentally defeated. I did make 2 passes, and it was cool to take it down the track. However, my Chevelle would've been ahead of me on both.. (not by a lot). After the 2nd pass I packed up and went home.
At some point after I got home I took the crank sensor off and it looked like it had made slight contact with the teeth of the trigger wheel at one point, along with a crack in the magnet. I have no idea when that happened.
I put the the new sensor on my bracket and also added one more small washer to the stack to get the sensor centered better on the trigger wheel.
Before:
After:
Gap set at .034" / .863mm
I also really need to get some heat-wrap on the piping near the turbo. I'm concerned about running with the hood on for any length of time for fear of it (the hood) getting too hot.
After the failed T-n-T at Kuhnle, I dug into it again. I got the exhaust pipes near the turbo wrapped with good header wrap. Now I can run it comfortably with the hood on. I also removed and cleaned up with the water neck/upper hose, as there was a persistent drip coming from there when it would warm up. And speaking of warming up, the two little radiator fans are not effective enough. I have a good GM fan I can try first (free). Maybe the radiator isn't big enough too.
The big issue I found was the crank position sensor. You can see in the picture that there was some contact to the sensor from the trigger wheel. So I replaced the sensor. I was hoping that would explain my RPM signal drop-outs. Foreshadowing...
Paul called me on Thursday and said Dragway 42 was having a test-n-tune on Friday and asked if I was going. I wasnt really planning on it, but I had already taken off Friday anyway, the weather was gorgeous, and the weather was gonna turn to cold and wet on Saturday. I was able to get a uhaul trailer in willoughby, so off I went.
Gates opened at 4, runs would start at 6, and I got there around 4:30. There was like 10 cars there when I pulled in. I had to go through tech inspection and didn't do so hot, but they let me run anyway. I need a neutral safety switch, and I need to re-work my battery cut-off switch so it shuts the car off when running. Currently (electrical joke), it will continue to run with the switch off because of the alternator. Also, my belts expired in June 2023. I knew about all these things, but the last time the car was "teched", they didnt check *anything*.
Just before going to tech, I realized I was missing the USB cable to connect Megasquirt to my laptop. oh no!! A couple phone calls later, I was off to Scott's house to grab a spare cable, since he's only about 20 minutes away. I got back to the track just about when they were sending the first cars down the track. I was able to get up there and get my first run in.
I finally pulled into my lane and here's how it went.
I was stoked! Almost 120mph! Went down the track, no issues, no funny noises... and barely any boost. My datalog showed 129kpa, which is about 4psi. There are two springs in each wastegate, I thought it would generate a lot more than that. Datalog also showed it was lean up top, so I added more fuel to the table.
On the 2nd run, I decided to try and build some boost on the line using the transbrake (footbraked on first pass) and I after I released the button, it was just a stuttering mess. 14.x @ 103. And I forgot to put the SD card in, so I have no datalog of it. It ran fine as I drove back to the pits (no load). When I did get back to my pit, it took some effort to get the car cooled down, it was 200*. It's hard to cool down, even with the hood off. Those little fans arent up to the task.
As I was getting ready to go up for a 3rd run, track officials called the event because it had been misting for a little while. Paul and I thought they could've waited a little longer and we could've probably run again, but it seemed like someone was in a hurry to get out of there. So we loaded up and headed home.
The drive home had a real pucker moment on 271, as a deer appeared in front me and I ended up swerving from the right lane over to the left berm. Really thought I was gonna end up with a wrecked car/trailer/truck. I pulled off at the rest stop about a mile up the road and was amazed to not find *any* damage, scratches, anything.
This morning, while talking to Andy on the phone about all of this, I pulled the [brand-new] crank sensor off and lo-and-behold, the new sensor made contact. The spec I have for the sensor gap is .75-1.0mm I've been setting it in middle, around .85-.86mm. That's clearly not working. I may just go to 1.0mm and see how everything works. I have a theory that my sensor bracket is not robust enough and during all the shaking from being on the 2-step, something is moving and allowing that sensor to make contact. I can try a wider gap and also beef-up the bracket.
And just for reference, this is what the whole setup looks like.
I've also got a punch list of other items, including a relay for my trans-cooler-fan, gauge lights, seat belt mounts, boost controller plumbing, and the tech safety items of the kill switch and neutral safety switch. Whew, lots of work.
Pretty sure the extra fan is not going to do it - time will tell. Also what is the thermostat - 180?
Looking at how that bracket is mounted, I'm going to guess the problem is the bolt holes are slotted and its moving just a little bit. Next guess is the bracket is not sturdy enough. I suppose it is at least possible the ring is moving around on the balancer so would want to check that also. More shakedowns without trans brake and checking for contact after every test drive/pass for a while will help uncover it.
[quote="Basement Paul"]Is that a mint rocketship on the hood?? :shock:
-BP[/quote]
I readjusted the bracket for the max clearance I could get on the crank sensor. I forget the measurement, I did that several weeks ago.
A dedicated USB cable has been put in the car.
I got the trans-cooler fan all wired up.
I got the boost controller all plumbed in and verified the solenoid works.
I put in a call to Steve McBride Jr about moving my lap belt mounts forward. He did the submarine belt when it was there, but the lap belts are still too snug at full extension.
Master Disconnect Switch:
When the car is running and you shutoff the master disconnect in the back of the car, it stays running from alternator output. I probably have to run another 6ga cable from the alternator back to the trunk, to the battery side of the switch.
Neutral Safety Switch:
My shifter has one built in, yay.. I just need to incorporate it into the start circuit.
Well, I am a glutton for punishment, so I'm giving it another shot! Maliboost is officially entered for Hot Rod Drag Week 2024, Sep 15-20.
I'm entered in the Street Race Small Block Power Adder class. And this is the week after the Champcar Mid-Ohio race with the 944! September is gonna be busy!
Chris took my old crank-position-sensor bracket to work and they scanned it in. He got their CAD guy to fix up a few things, and we have now reproduced it in .260 aluminum. I'll be making a trip to Cut-N-Paste Welding this weekend to have it put together.
I pulled off the steering wheel to re-clock it, as it was off 90 degrees. The tool I bought for removing the lock plate doesn't have the right size for the steering shaft (1/2-13). The tool came with an adapter for 9/16 and M14. I'm gonna try to fix the turn signal stalk and switch while I'm in there.
Small bits of progress over the weekend. The turn signals work! It was just a missing fuse in the fuse block. I still need to replace the lever.
I dug out the wiper components that came with the car, only to find the wiper motor doesn't seem to work. Not sure if I need a switch, as the circuit testing didn't exactly pan out. And I need to procure a set of wiper arms + blades.
I ordered a fuel pressure sensor + adapter for -8AN and got it installed. I was surprised to find (forgot) I had already wired in the plug for it when I did the rest of the wiring earlier. That felt like an easy win.
I need to make a decision on the front control arms. The bushings are shot, and I have new ones in inventory. I kinda don't like the looks like these arms for 1000 miles of street duty, though. Could do something as simple as shore it with some rod welded to it, orrrr... get new tubular upper arms.
After a couple missed attempts, I finally have a new crank sensor bracket, made from .26" aluminum. It should be much sturdier than the .125 steel, and probably lighter.
Cut-N-Paste didn't have any gas for his TIG setup, so I threw a random post up in the Chesterland Facebook group asking if anyone could weld some aluminum. A guy named Griffin reached out and said he could. His dad lives over in Fox Wood Farms and that's where he does his work. He has some pretty crazy off-roader, has a Tacoma cab with some crazy exo-skeleton. Off-road/rock-climber. I had dropped off the pieces to him a week ago, but didn't have the orientation fully marked. So I took the final set of pieces down to him today and he welded them up while I waited. It came out great (so did the wrong one). They seem like good people. So I have a pretty cool local source for aluminum welding now.
I had to open up the holes on the block-mounting side just a little so I could get the sensor close enough. But after that, I set the gap at .91mm and it fired *right* up. That felt really good.
I picked up a set of drag radials that I can feel a little better driving around on the street. They are only 28" tall (275-60-15), but I haven't bolted them on the car yet.
I also got a new radiator. It's the same size, but thicker. This is the fan I'm going to use. Some factory GM fan. You can see how much more area it covers versus the 2 dinky fans I have now.
I also finished running the wire from the alternator back to the battery-side of the safety switch, so that when the external switch is off, the car dies. It works as expected now.
I'm still trying to come up with a removable steering wheel hub. Worst case, a smaller, flat-bottom steering wheel.
Are going to wrap that exhaust pipe between the block and radiator? Seems like a big source for underhood heat. That fan and radiator combo should be quite a bit better.
Like the wheel and tire combination.
Bring it to Saturday breakfast just for the fun of it!
One of the future pictures might be next to the Xmas tree, or under the timimg lights.
Really cool ride, looking forward to some times.
