1972 Maverick Sprint

Update your progress on your various car projects.

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oldvettedad
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Re: 1972 Maverick Sprint

Post by oldvettedad »

Oh that Maverick is lookin REAL GOOD! How wide the Radial T/As you bought? It looks great. Minor picky thing, you can get complete chrome valve stems that screw on. No black rubber showing. But I'm too picky!
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Maverick
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Re: 1972 Maverick Sprint

Post by Maverick »

oldvettedad wrote:Oh that Maverick is lookin REAL GOOD! How wide the Radial T/As you bought? It looks great. Minor picky thing, you can get complete chrome valve stems that screw on. No black rubber showing. But I'm too picky!
Thanks. I wasn't aware of even the half chrome stems so I thought it was neat when the guy asked if I wanted them. All chrome would look better.

Fronts are 205/60/15s, 235/60/15s on the back. Was looking for another pair of 235s for the front to go with the pair I picked up on Craigslist but none to be found, ANYWHERE!! Contacted BFG and they SAID all backorders would be filled by 8/1 but that was to the wholesalers. I couldn't wait so went with the 205s on the front. My 7 inch wide wheels were good for both sizes.
Maverick
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Maverick
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Trans Temp Gauge and Headlight Relays

Post by Maverick »

Got two little projects done while TS was down.

Installed the trans pan Bro Willy made with the bungs for a drain and temp sensor. Got the gauge wired up and learned something in the process. The ground terminal on the gauge IS important. I don't understand why its necessary but without the ground terminal the guage read WAY high. With ground connected, it seems fine. Normal driving around town gets the temp up to about 150* with air temp in the 80s. Got it to 195* with a couple of WOT run ups with air tem about 90*. Seems like under normal driving conditions, the trans "cooler" in the radiator, with a 195* thermostat, is really a trans "heater". Probably a good idea in cold weather but maybe not so good in hot weather.

Learned something else, too. The trans upshifts later when transmission is hotter. First runup the 1-2 upshift occured at 5200 RPM but not till 6000 when trans was at 195*. Guess I'm going to have to install the floor shifter so I can manually shift it with some accuracy. Current column shifter is NOT real good.

Also got the headlight relays and new Halogen bulbs installed. Haven't driven it at night yet to see the difference but they look brighter. Thought I was ordering Sylvania Silverstar Halogen bulbs when I ordered part number H6024 several weeks ago. Turns out the Silverstars are H6024ST. :oops: So, I have ordinary Halogens, not the Silverstars. Guess they'll have to do.

A note on the new tires & wheels: the taller rear tires have a larger negative effect on performance than I expected. The car doesn't feel as fast as with the 14" wheels and tires. I put an ad on Craigslist this evening to try to sell the current engine. If it sells I'll pull the trigger on the Phase 2 347 stroker.
Maverick
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Fred32v
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Re: 1972 Maverick Sprint

Post by Fred32v »

Changing the rear end carrier to an around town (1/8th drag) gear of 3.70 or 4.10 would take care or the larger tire issue.
That's a lot easier, quicker and less expense than changing the motor, but would also play when the motor is upgraded.
Don't forget to change the speedo gear. Putting the stock read end back when your going to travel to Carlisle.
Changing the pumpkins in BP's Ford products was relatively quick and easy, maybe an hours effort.
Fred32v
GMC Canyon Crew Cab Short Box 4x4 V6!
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Maverick
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Re: 1972 Maverick Sprint

Post by Maverick »

Hey Fred,

Yes, I could change the rear end gears (maybe converter too) and get an OK around town car for a lot less money. But, I didn't like the cruise RPMs with the shorter tires so steeper gears would require an AOD to make me happy. Still would be less money. But, Just need more torque. :mrgreen:

Yep, changing Ford 8" pumpkin is easy. Just did it for the Traction Loc. Probably a two-day job for me. :lol: You wouldn't believe how LONG it takes me to do anything lately. :oops:

But, I do appreciate the comments. Always good to hear from you.

Jim
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Maverick
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Fuel Pressure Gauge and Regulator

Post by Maverick »

IIRC from first start days, the (third) new fuel pump was putting out 7.5 PSI on the starter. Since the spec, I think, is in the 4-7 range I wasn't concerned. But, sometimes it seems to load up while idling and the exhaust fumes when idling are definitely rich.

It stalled a couple of times, again seeming to be loading up. Got home and checked the float level sight glasses and the secondary was at or over the top and, after adjusting the level. would creep up again. Got me thinking that the slightly high pressure might be forcing more gas past the needle valve until the float was further submerged. So, I decided to install a fuel pressure regulator and fuel pressure gauge. Like the idea of knowing the fule pressure.

Just got it done. Regulator is set for just under 6 PSI out of the box so I left it there. Checked the sight glasses and the secondary is just a hair over half way and engine is idling fine. I have some new plastic washer/gaskets for the needle valves. Will change the gaskets and reset the float levels some day soon. Right now I'm taking a break. :)
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Fred32v
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Re: 1972 Maverick Sprint

Post by Fred32v »

Neat install.
Fred32v
GMC Canyon Crew Cab Short Box 4x4 V6!
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Maverick
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Re: 1972 Maverick Sprint

Post by Maverick »

Just came back from a little test drive. It idles and runs noticeably smoother. :D Might even say it idles WELL, which I would never had said before. Maybe I should drive it for a few days before I get too excited.

Now I'm wondering if slightly high fuel pressure was causing the problems with the Holley I couldn't get to run well. :idea: It seemed too lean but might have to put it back on some day and try it with 5.5 PSI. The dyno guy complained that it was fluctuating lean and rich. Could have been the problem.
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Maverick
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Transmission Cooler

Post by Maverick »

The recently added trans temp gauge said the trans fluid in the pan was 210* while cruising at 70-75 MPG on a 90* day so a cooler was added to the list of to-dos. Challenge was finding a place to mount one.

Something that happened on a hot day this summer made me want to avoid putting it in front of the condenser and radiator. With a front (decorative) license plate installed, and blocking a good percentage of the air flow into the radiator, the fan came on low speed while going down the road at 40-50 MPH following a big trailer. The front plate has been removed and I'd like to avoid any other things blocking air to the radiator.

This cooler http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BMM-70268/ is only 3/4" thick and fits begind the grill on the side with 1-2" of space behind it. Not an ideal spot for air flow but I'm hoping it'll keep the trans temp down. The lower edge of the cooler is mounted to the splash pan and the top is held off the radiator support by 1/4x2 1/2" bolts. Feels good and solid. Hope it does the job.

Had to remove the front bumper to drill mounting holes in the splash pan.

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