1972 Maverick Sprint

[Fred32v]

I don't know what it is about drag strips,
but they're different than on the street.
There is always something to overcome.
Having said that, looks like a neat facility.
Way more fun than street racing.
When you get the tranny sorted, your numbers
will improve dramatically. I can't wait for your next outing.

[Maverick]

Next time let the car sit between passes. Let it sit for 45-60 minutes. The hood has to be open to let heat out faster. You might benefit from getting there before the gates open and letting it sit and cool off. Also no lengthy idling in line to get in. After you get the heat out from the drive you might be able to hot lap it there, but maybe not. The external cooler might help but no guarantees.

We have 30+ minutes between the time the gates open and the track opens. Could have had the hood open -- didn't think about that. Good suggestion. Guess a long wait between runs after the crowd shows up might be a good thing. Maybe there's a better ATF than the store brand (Advance?) . Not that easy to find Type F anymore.

[Fred32v]

I like the "Better Transmission Fluid" idea a lot,
maybe a special synthetic specific to you box.

[Maverick]

It looks like Valvoline and Castrol still make Type F ATF. I sent a question to Broder Performance, the guys that built the transmission, to see what they suggest.

I'm guessing that the problem was frothing of the fluid due to about a pint over full. A pan with drain plug, temp sensor, and maybe a little extra capacity is in the future. Have a temp gauge kit ordered from JEGS.

IF the trans is overheating I'll find a place for a cooler. Hope it won't be in front of the AC condenser -- AC isn't real cold when the weather is hot.

[oldvettedad]

Maverick,
Just to got to see your dragstrip performance. Even thoigh my 'PassTime" was way off, you did a great job. The video i saw looked good and you and WXO looked neck and neck. Glad you had fun. As Mostmint said, you really DO NOT want to hot lap it. You need time for it to cool. Open the hood, a floor fan to blow air into it would be good too. Especially since you do have hotter temps down there then up north. Also, we try to run ONLY as much tranny fluid as necessary. It does tend to boil and froth and then your tranny will not shift poperly. Glad you had a ball, and you both were able to DRIVE home...no tow chain necessary
Can't wait till you try again!

[Basement Paul]

As far as your shifting goes with a C4, if you manually shift it, it will always go into 2nd gear no matter what speed or RPM. It will even start in 2nd gear. Are you letting it shift, or shifting yourself?

-BP

[Maverick]

On a test run the afternoon before we took it to the strip, it did the WOT 1-2 upshift in drive at 5500 RPM (perfect), 2-3 upshift at 5100, both as measured by the tack memory. Since it would never see 5100 in second gear in the 1/8th, I ran it in drive.

The column shift linkage is kinda clumsy so I was happy not to have to shift it manually. Have a new B&M floor shift that I haven't installed yet. Hope that will be a big improvement over the column shift.

As mentioned in a previous post, I think the issue might be the extra pint or so of ATF. Got that out and also have a few other things going on.

Bro willy is working on an expanded capacity transmission pan with bungs for drain and temp sensor. Have a transmission temp gauge on the way from Summit.

And, I'm rechecking with the trans builder on a recommendation for ATF. First repsonse this time was for Dexron/Mercon rather than Type F but I'm not going there till I verify it. I'm sure he told me Type F when I asked before.

Also thinking about a rev limiter. Do not want to float the valves again.

Should be ready for another try in August.

[Maverick]

Since the transmision acted up while testing the Maverick at the drag strip, its getting a temperature gauge. Bro Willy in Arizona added a 1.25" section and two 1/8" NPT bungs -- one for the temp sensor and another for a drain plug -- to a C4 pan. I know pans with bungs are available but I'd rather have this one made by my brother. He's getting up there and isn't as steady anymore so welds are not up to his standards but they're a whole lot better than mine would be.



Sensor is for an AutoMeter Transmission Temp Gauge that's mounted but not wired up yet. Empty hole is for a Air/Fuel gauge some day.



LEDs indicate when AC compressor is running, radiator fan is running on low speed, and another not quite visible one indicates fan on hi speed. The LEDs will eventually get mounted in the gauge panels. Have another 3-way gauge set for oil, water temp, and volts backordered at Summit.

Its a lot cooler in here posting than it would be in the garage working on this stuff.

[TireSmoker]

A lot of those electrical temperature gauges use the same sending unit. With one gauge, a couple extra sending units, and a 3-way toggle switch, you could read water, oil, or trans temp.

-Dave

[Maverick]

A lot of those electrical temperature gauges use the same sending unit. With one gauge, a couple extra sending units, and a 3-way toggle switch, you could read water, oil, or trans temp.

-Dave

Interesting idea!! Replacement sensors are available for the transmission gauge, probably the same sensor as other gauges use. In any case, one could be used for oil temp. Could be done. I could cancel the backordered 3-way. Hmmm. Still need a volt meter. Could drill and tap a replacement drain plug and wouldn't have to drop the oil pan. It fun thinking up new projects while sitting in the cool house.

[Maverick]

We're back in NC after our annual Miciigan trip. Temp never got above low 90s, which is normal in NC, but highs were mostly in the low 80s which we REALLY enjoy. Spent a couple of days in Northern MI with very pleasant temps.

Before we left I ordered and received a set of chrome Cragar SS 15X7s and a pair of 205/60/15 BFG Radial TAs from Summit to go with the pair of 235/60/15s from Craigslist. Got them mounted and balanced today and have been trying to put them on the car with frequent breaks. Its about 100* with high humidity today.

Also got a set of acorn lug nuts and washers and four wheel locks. UNFORTUNATELY, Summit sent the wrong wheel locks (they're for standard wheels -- won't work with the offset washers) so I can't finish. Will post some pictures when I get the wheels on and cleaned up.

[Maverick]

Correct wheel locks arrived yesterday. New wheels & tires are installed. I like the old timey look of the Cragar SSs. 4.125" backspace worked well on the back. Can almost get a finger between leaf springs and the tire and, if the body ever gets down that far, looks like it would clear the tire for 1/4" or so. Haven't driven it yet to see if there are any rubs on the front.






205s on the front.


235s on the back.

[Fred32v]

What a great look! A serious improvement over the stock caps,
stock was fine but this new look goes to a whole other level.

[wxo]

Ditto what Fred said. Great choice of wheels and tires, Jim.

[Maverick]

Thanks, I really like them too. I knew from the beginning I wanted some mags or chrome wheels but didn't spring for them till I had to. I'll keep the 14" Ford wheels and tires around as an option but, now that I've dealt with the unilugs once , I'm NOT eager to change wheels again.